Help needed for winding problem

[David King]

My main soldering station is a Hakko 109 with temp control, I think it's 60W but I use a smaller tip, 1.6mm wide. I replace the tip about once a month so I'm pretty sure the temp is accurate.

For pickups I'm using eutectic 63/37 solder from Kimber cable or a lead-free, MG Chemicals solder with Sn 96.3% with Ag .7% Cu 3%.

[David Schwab]

Yes I am a bit leery of NOT stripping the ends from reading some of the recent posts; I guess I will try stripping a few "loose ends" that are lying around from my previous bad winds. I have not done any experimenting with different wire yet, but I intend to after this roll of Stew Mac runs out, which should be soon. I am particularly interested in the early 50's winds that Fender was doing back then. It seems that Fender used "Formvar: for the Strat until 64, when they used a "Formvar/Enamel" wire. I am thinking about the Formvar 42 ga heavy build from Mojo, as I posted in a previous reply. I have never heard of Elektrisola or Phelps-Dodge, but I hope to find different sources for wire as I progress.

I don't think it would work with formvar or enamel. Some wire is solderable on purpose.

Elektrisola is a big wire company, and Gibson used Phelps-Dodge wire on the PAF's, or so I've heard.

I think Fender used heavy formvar on the early pickups, but I'm no expert on Fender pickups... I'm sure someone else here will chime in.

[chevalij]

I don't think it would work with formvar or enamel. Some wire is solderable on purpose.

Elektrisola is a big wire company, and Gibson used Phelps-Dodge wire on the PAF's, or so I've heard.

I think Fender used heavy formvar on the early pickups, but I'm no expert on Fender pickups... I'm sure someone else here will chime in.

Yep, 42 heavy formvar.

[Chadheckler1]

I too have had problems burning/breaking/cutting through the copper wire when soldering on the hookup wires. But I have not had any issues since I reduced my heat from 850F to 700F. I do exactly as David describes except before I tin the hookup wire I split the strands into a "Y" and tin the two pieces...then I can put the magnet wire between the "Y", pinch the hookup wire closed, and twist the hookup wire and the magnet wire wraps perfectly around it. Be sure to hold the soldering iron to the connection a few seconds longer than normal (3-4 seconds after the solder melts into the joint should be good) and you should be good to go.

[Joe Gwinn]

Just something cheap. But I did wind a pickup tonight and just soldered the magnet wire to the leads, without removing the insulation, and that worked fine.

I have to get a new soldering station.

Temperature controlled irons are definitely worthwhile. In the old days, that meant Weller TCP (later WTCP), who had the patent on the curie-temperature magnetic thermostat (US patent 3,267,254).

Now, with modern electronics, there are many makers of temperature controlled soldering irons. I have a Weller WES51, which works well. I got it on closeout sale for $99.

I got the TCP in June 1968. I think I paid $100 back then, which is equivalent to $606 now. That seems high, actually. It was what NASA had us at RCA use.

[SteikBacon]

I use 600-800 sandpaper. Takes 10 seconds. Have not had any problem yet.

[David Schwab]

Temperature controlled irons are definitely worthwhile. In the old days, that meant Weller TCP (later WTCP), who had the patent on the curie-temperature magnetic thermostat (US patent 3,267,254).

Now, with modern electronics, there are many makers of temperature controlled soldering irons. I have a Weller WES51, which works well. I got it on closeout sale for $99.

I got the TCP in June 1968. I think I paid $100 back then, which is equivalent to $606 now. That seems high, actually. It was what NASA had us at RCA use.

I had a real nice one from when I worked at ITT in the late 70's. I forget the brand now... thermo-track or something like that... they were about $600 new at the time. That lasted me well into the 90's, then one day the tip turned cherry red! Apparently stopped regulating.

I've been eyeballing an Aoyue 937+ on Amazon for $50.

[Steve Conner]

I heard that Aoyue are a bit shabby. A tech I know got one of their rework stations, and it broke down inside a week. He got a replacement, but he said he hates it.

[David Schwab]

I heard that Aoyue are a bit shabby. A tech I know got one of their rework stations, and it broke down inside a week. He got a replacement, but he said he hates it.

Thanks! I'll pass on that one.

[roundmidnight]

I had no problems with 42 & 43 gauge SPN from StewMac and other sources using just heat from my unregulated 25 watt iron (just a cheap hobbiest here).

Then I got some 42 PE from American Wire Corp and immediately started having problems. With a DMM hooked up, checking continuity between a flying lead and the stripped end of the magnet wire I could see resistance drop when heat was applied and then increase as the solder cooled. I am using eutectic solder. Generally if I held heat on the joint long enough the insulation would break down.

Recently, have been sanding the end of the magnet wire with 1200 grit paper and that seems to make the whole process easier. On HB type pickups I want to have a bit of magnet wire at the end without insulation that I can check continuity to the flying lead to ensure that the inner connection to the coil is good.

Reading this thread with interest....

RM

[David King]

Well I'll be damned,
It works!
I cranked the temp up to 750º and bang the insulation just took off and the solder flowed. I am so, so, happy about this I could cry.
I realized that I keep my temp down around 625 most of the time because that seems to work best with the lead free and the eutectic solders.

I've always heard that the best soldering irons are the Metcal ones that are fixed temp, usually 500º.
Glad I didn't get one of those finally as I would have to keep changing tips...

[roundmidnight]

David,

PDX eh? I live just north of Little Beirut in the scenic hamlet of La Center (Casino Junction).

Wind on,

RM

[David Schwab]

I had a real nice one from when I worked at ITT in the late 70's. I forget the brand now... thermo-track or something like that...

Hey I quoted myself!

After I got over my brain cramp... now I remember. It was a Hexacon 1002 Therm-O-Trac soldering station.

[Scott S.]

I have no problems tinning SPN or PE at 750F, it burns right off... using a Weller WES51 station with electronic temp control

Using standard Kester 6040 solder .040 dia

If you keep the heat on too long it seems to make the wire weak, but you can see the flux burning the insulation no probelm just have to watch. I am usually trying to tin a length of about 1/4 inch so i move the solder and iron as I see the burnoff occuring

[Steve17]

Wow, so many methods of stripping magnet wire! I wish I would have found this site when I did my first few pickups. Anyway, I found that using 400 grit sandpaper works well and only takes a few seconds. I've never had a problem with it anyway.