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Yeah, I use SD/Lollar colors, too. The no-lead method makes sense, in that you're keeping all solder joints on the outside of the coil, like with single coil eyelets; but the more I think about it, it seems like you might lose the security of a solidly buried start lead. Watching Clint soldering on two leads at once, after winding a raw coil, I could imagine myself tugging on the start a little too hard and breaking it off under the coil. And that would just lead to a fit of profanity and throwing stuff.
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Well, I suppose we could make pigtails leads...just got the machine I purchased fixed...
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I set my station to 900 degrees. It's just like tin-ing a wire.
I put my hook ups on after the coil is wound and tape them to the sides of the coil.
Use a layer of tape, then tape the hookups, then tape the whole bobbin.Comment
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Ok, so what do you with the start wire? How much extra do you keep free, and where do you tuck it while winding? That's the little detail I'm missing. Can you provide a picture of a bobbin, mounted on the winder, with the wire all ready to wind?Originally posted by 12xu View PostComment
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No pics at home.Originally posted by Jason Rodgers View Post
I stick the wire down through the one of the "little holes"...then tape the wire across the top of the bobbin, then run it down into the ditch of the bobbin. Start a few turns, then mount it to the winder.
What you're left with after its wound is a length of wire about the lenght of the bobbin.
Then sand the insulation off the magnet wire, wrap a few turns on the hookup lead, solder it and roll it up to take up the slack.Comment
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