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While the search function was extremely helpful in getting started, cutting flatstock was one area that most of the posts got me over thinking it a bit. So for the benefit of possibly the next guy that goes searching around for ideas, here is what I found worked easiest for me and gave satisfactory results.
The idea of a pin router appealed to me at first but once I thought about it, I realized that for prototyping it wouldn't be worth the time to build a jig for every new design. I also read a post of someone using a bandsaw. While I have 2, I didn't figure it to be ideal for such small work (don't like my fingers that close to the bandsaw blade even on my little saw). So I chose a tool that is kind of related but better suited to smaller work and tighter radius cutting. Last year I had picked up a Delta scroll saw for $25 at a flea market. It was on the shelf collecting dust as it was kind of a impulse purchase but for this new hobby it seems ideal.
So I made some test cuts first. I tried both flat and spiral blades. The best for control and finish were flat, fine tooth blades. I only wish I had a variable speed saw as I would have liked to slow the blade just a bit. The thinness of the blade affords a lot of control for cutting shapes.
I designed the flatwork in CAD and plotted a sheet of various designs actual size. For those who don't have CAD skills you can always draft your master layout by hand and just make photo copies of it.
I thought about different ways of gluing the paper printout to the fiberboard including using 3M spray art adhesive but I wanted something that I could easily get the paper off with. At first I tried repositionable picture and poster glue from Elmer's but it slid around to much. What worked best is just a cheap kids glue stick. Just rough cut the paper layout and glue the back of it and position onto the blank. It set up almost immediately and a quick rinse under warm water and the paper and glue washes right off.
For drilling I used a drill press and backed up the flatwork with a piece of hardwood. For .187 magnets I tried both #14 and #13 drill bits. The #14 is .182 and it seemed a bit difficult to fit the magnets in. It would however be my choice if I didn't superglue them in and only lacquered the assembly together. A #13 drill bit is .185 and makes assembly an easier process using a couple of small drops of superglue. A tip: move the wood block for every different size hole so the hole in the wood is the same as the drill bit. That way the bottom of the holes cut clean without deforming the bottom surface outward.
I bought an eyelet setting tool from Stew-Mac. It came with a #40 .073 drill bit but the eyelets from Mojotone are .090 diameter. A #43 drill bit .089 worked perfectly for this larger eyelet.
My observations. Very quick cut outs and easily able to accurately follow the outline. The cuts were very smooth and required only a minor bit of filing to smooth a bit of cut drag on the bottom of the cuts. A bit of 220 grit sand paper would likely be a faster alternative to a file. With the paper printout, cutting a set only takes a couple of minutes to accomplish.
For those that need to build something odd that has to be custom cut, this is a quick and relatively cheap method. Even new, scroll saws start around $100 but I see them real cheap on craigslist all the time.
Don
The idea of a pin router appealed to me at first but once I thought about it, I realized that for prototyping it wouldn't be worth the time to build a jig for every new design. I also read a post of someone using a bandsaw. While I have 2, I didn't figure it to be ideal for such small work (don't like my fingers that close to the bandsaw blade even on my little saw). So I chose a tool that is kind of related but better suited to smaller work and tighter radius cutting. Last year I had picked up a Delta scroll saw for $25 at a flea market. It was on the shelf collecting dust as it was kind of a impulse purchase but for this new hobby it seems ideal.
So I made some test cuts first. I tried both flat and spiral blades. The best for control and finish were flat, fine tooth blades. I only wish I had a variable speed saw as I would have liked to slow the blade just a bit. The thinness of the blade affords a lot of control for cutting shapes.
I designed the flatwork in CAD and plotted a sheet of various designs actual size. For those who don't have CAD skills you can always draft your master layout by hand and just make photo copies of it.
I thought about different ways of gluing the paper printout to the fiberboard including using 3M spray art adhesive but I wanted something that I could easily get the paper off with. At first I tried repositionable picture and poster glue from Elmer's but it slid around to much. What worked best is just a cheap kids glue stick. Just rough cut the paper layout and glue the back of it and position onto the blank. It set up almost immediately and a quick rinse under warm water and the paper and glue washes right off.
For drilling I used a drill press and backed up the flatwork with a piece of hardwood. For .187 magnets I tried both #14 and #13 drill bits. The #14 is .182 and it seemed a bit difficult to fit the magnets in. It would however be my choice if I didn't superglue them in and only lacquered the assembly together. A #13 drill bit is .185 and makes assembly an easier process using a couple of small drops of superglue. A tip: move the wood block for every different size hole so the hole in the wood is the same as the drill bit. That way the bottom of the holes cut clean without deforming the bottom surface outward.
I bought an eyelet setting tool from Stew-Mac. It came with a #40 .073 drill bit but the eyelets from Mojotone are .090 diameter. A #43 drill bit .089 worked perfectly for this larger eyelet.
My observations. Very quick cut outs and easily able to accurately follow the outline. The cuts were very smooth and required only a minor bit of filing to smooth a bit of cut drag on the bottom of the cuts. A bit of 220 grit sand paper would likely be a faster alternative to a file. With the paper printout, cutting a set only takes a couple of minutes to accomplish.
For those that need to build something odd that has to be custom cut, this is a quick and relatively cheap method. Even new, scroll saws start around $100 but I see them real cheap on craigslist all the time.
Don
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