telecaster flatwork PDF/DXF or measurements

[Drools]

I'm looking for flatwork drawings. I want to make my own flatwork on the CNC but I need the measurements. Specifically flatwork for a telecaster neck/bridge pup.

Thanks for the help.

[big_teee]

Hey Drools:
Your not getting response.
I don't have a drawing and don't do CNC, but couldn't you buy a set of flatwork from Mojo and make your on stats.
Tele Bobbins and Flatwork Pickup Parts
Cost you a few bux and your on your way maybe.
Later,
Terry

[Drools]

Or I could pick up a set from stewmac, I just figured someone on here would have some measurements.

[big_teee]

Or I could pick up a set from stewmac, I just figured someone on here would have some measurements.

I haven't used flatwork from Stewmac, but I like the Mojo they have the Grey Bottom Flatwork, is very nice looks like it's right out of the Late 60's.
I don't know if this will help I got it from the Seymour Duncan page.
Good Luck,
Terry

[Drools]

Thank you very much, I think these will work.
Maybe you could answer another question; the material used is vulcanized fiber board type stuff. What properties are they looking for in this material? Why not use Bakelite or FR4 (PCB material without copper) or even FR4 with a copper layer?
Thanks.

[big_teee]

Thank you very much, I think these will work.
Maybe you could answer another question; the material used is vulcanized fiber board type stuff. What properties are they looking for in this material? Why not use Bakelite or FR4 (PCB material without copper) or even FR4 with a copper layer?
Thanks.

I'm sure there will be better answers than mine.
Anything that is an insulator that is durable and won't melt.
I made some flatwork out of industrial grade white plastic from a Cell Tower antenna.
Is was great until I put the eyelets on to solder to.
It got a little gooey when I soldered to it.
The Vulcanized fiber is very tough.
I've done several rewinds of 60s & 70s single coils.
It still works great.
I would think G10 or anything like that would work.
Its expensive also if your buying.
Maybe you have some scrap supply you have in mind.
Terry

[Drools]

Well I do have quite a bit of FR4 and CEM double sided and single sided as I make my own PCBs on the CNC router. FR4 is glass epoxy, very tough and very good insulator. I was looking at the copper plate that are used under the PUP, I'm not exactly sure what its function is. If the copper on the FR4 could mimic the functionality of the copper plate we could eliminate one piece. FR4 is available in thicknesses from .015 to .095, SS/DS with the copper thickness fron 1/2oz to 4oz. The cost of surplus FR4 is less than the flatwork material available from stewmac.
I'm thinking here....

[big_teee]

Well I do have quite a bit of FR4 and CEM double sided and single sided as I make my own PCBs on the CNC router. FR4 is glass epoxy, very tough and very good insulator. I was looking at the copper plate that are used under the PUP, I'm not exactly sure what its function is. If the copper on the FR4 could mimic the functionality of the copper plate we could eliminate one piece. FR4 is available in thicknesses from .015 to .095, SS/DS with the copper thickness fron 1/2oz to 4oz. The cost of surplus FR4 is less than the flatwork material available from stewmac.
I'm thinking here....

The copper plate under the Tele Bridge pickup is a copper clad steel plate.
It is supposed to be steel to give it more magnetic field to help on being tinny or ice picky.
It's copper plated to make it easy to solder to and look cool!
You will still need the steel plate if you won't to copy the originals.
The plate doesn't have to be copper plated.
I have some that are zinc plated.

[Drools]

ahhh the plate is meant to distribute the magnetic field, that explains a lot.
Does anyone know the most common magnet diameter for vintage pups? I could look it up too I suppose.

[Drools]

Here is what I did for the bridge pup.
I used the SD stk_t3b as a template as it had more measurements to work from. The magnut holes are .195 dia. R12 dxf.
If the file is not downloaded in asn hour it will be deleted???
I will work on the neck pup tomorrow.

[big_teee]

Here is what I did for the bridge pup.
I used the SD stk_t3b as a template as it had more measurements to work from. The magnut holes are .195 dia. R12 dxf.
If the file is not downloaded in asn hour it will be deleted???
I will work on the neck pup tomorrow.

The magnets can be .187 or .195.
The holes can't be that big.
Not sure of how much to reduce, but have to be a very tight pressed fit.
If the holes are too large, its hard to keep flatwork straight (warpage) while winding.
Fender had that problem with some of the early CBS pickups.
They were getting smaller magnets, same size holes as when they had large magnets.
I just rewound a couple of these recently and they were very warped.
Terry

[Drools]

not a problem. I can make the holes .190 or .182 if needed. Just PM me and I will make the corrections.
I'm assuming the people that would be interested in these files would have their own CAD program.

[big_teee]

Also on the magnets.
If you are going to wind with A2, or A5 magnets, most are .187
Most A3s are .195.
If you look at Mojo they offer all flatwork in two different sizes, because of different magnets.

[big_teee]

No cad program here.
Sounds like you got it under control.
Good Luck and Have Fun!
Rock Steady,
Terry

[Drools]

Good to know, thanks for your help.
Onto the metal plate, copper/zinc plated so as it can be soldered. What is soldered to it? I assume it will be a ground wire connecting all the electronics and the ground on the jack input...