Blade pickup people... how do you shape the ends?

[FunkyKikuchiyo]

I think I got my whole question into the title. I've been doing a bit with blade pickups, and I feel like I'm probably missing some shortcut on rounding over the ends. I've tried doing it on a disc sander and with sandpaper/files/etc. in similar ways to how I'd do an acoustic saddle, and it works okay, but it sure seems like there must be a better way. I've tried varying how much I do with each part of the process, but no real luck in getting faster or more consistent. Everything I've done so far comes out okay, but I'd really like it to be faster, better and repeatable.

Do I just suck it up and try to get faster at it? Or, am I missing something?

[marku52]

well you can't overheat the alnico, it permanently loses its properties. I'd look into a wet grinder like this one....

8" Wet/6" Dry Grinder

and with a template on top of the magnet, you should be pretty repeatable.

[FunkyKikuchiyo]

Mark - I'm actually talking about the steel blade. The magnets are fine. On the sides of the blade (bass side and treble side) it is square after you cut it, but is best rounded to a half circle for installation into the bobbin. I suppose it COULD be left square, but that would mean squaring out the holes for the bobbin and that seems like it would be even more work.

That grinder does look handy, though.

[big_teee]

I do lots of grinding with a Dewalt Bat. Operated 4-1/2" hand grinder turned upside down.
I bump the trigger and grind. You can put all kind of differnt disk on it.
I grind lots of platic items with it. I also bevel magnets with it.
A stationary grinder works good too. I keep the portable under my winding station.
It's handy as a pocket on a shirt.
Terry

[Plucky]

Spindle sander. Find a way to hold the blade square and upright, and Bob's your uncle.

[David Schwab]

I use a stationary belt/disc sander.

Terry, that's a funny quote!

[copperheadroads]

I use a bench grinder

[FunkyKikuchiyo]

Hmmm. Maybe I'm overthinking it. I'd love to have a perfect semi-circle on there. It doesn't help that my disc sander doesn't have a table. Well, it does, but it is a cheap sander and the table is kinda useless since it is impossible to get it square.

Copperhead, I didn't realize you were a newfie! I thought about moving up there at one point, then I realized how far it is... Still love to go sometime, though.

[copperheadroads]

Hmmm. Maybe I'm overthinking it. I'd love to have a perfect semi-circle on there. It doesn't help that my disc sander doesn't have a table. Well, it does, but it is a cheap sander and the table is kinda useless since it is impossible to get it square.

Copperhead, I didn't realize you were a newfie! I thought about moving up there at one point, then I realized how far it is... Still love to go sometime, though.

Yes Sir, born & raised .........
come on with the Newfie jokes

[FunkyKikuchiyo]

Yes Sir, born & raised .........
come on with the Newfie jokes

I'm in Vermont - I'm not one to crack jokes. However, we can discuss our mutual irritation for the Quebecois!

[copperheadroads]

I'm in Vermont - I'm not one to crack jokes. However, we can discuss our mutual irritation for the Quebecois!

A+++ to that

[David King]

How thick are your blades? I do round-overs on the milling machine with a radius cutter but your blades would need to be 1/8 thick for a 1/16" radius cutter to give you a perfect round end. They make micro radius cutters in solid carbide for thinner stock and you might be able to run those in a router even.

I would set up on a 12" disk sander for doing the ends by hand. It's them most controlled method for stock removal I can think of but the spindle sander might be the close second.

[FunkyKikuchiyo]

David - the sizes vary from version to version (I'm not at a final version yet) but they are around 1/16" thick, sometimes as much as .020" more.

You think a larger disk gives more control? I admit mine isn't great, but I'm having a bit of trouble wrapping my head around that.