Newbie with possible parts sources

[Joe Gwinn]

YMMV, your material may vary/ I use the same methods. I also have noticed the black bobbins are harder. Forcing the screw through the white ones will creat a hairline split down the center. They are weakest at this point for some reason?

Think about how the molten plastic must flow around the core pins that make the holes for the poles. The plastic flows in from the sides and meets in the middle, where these two flows are supposed to weld together. If the plastic isn't quite hot enough, and/or the ram pressure isn't quite high enough, the flows will meet but not quite weld, leaving the weakness you describe.

Unless you have an especially bad batch, reaming the hole out a bit will allow you to drive the screws without splitting the bobbins.

[Joe Gwinn]

Screw in a hole isn't rocket science. But I wasn't asking you about rocket science; I asked you if you were making pickups.

The screw holes in every humbucker baseplate I've been able to purchase are not quite in line with the bobbin holes. These have the effect of keeping the screw tight anyway. So tap the bobbins and stop your fussing.

So, it wasn't the wax after all. As long as the suppliers don't listen to our complaints that nothing quite fits together, we'll be OK.

My take is that it's better if things fit together correctly without fiddling (reducing cost of manufacture), and in such a way that they will most likely hang together for decades (meeting peoples' expectation that pickups last almost forever). YMMV.

[Spence]

Actually I have a gripe with humbucker baseplates because if they were tapped for the screws we wouldn't need to be pissing about tapping the bobbins. You may wonder why I don't just tap the baesplates then???
Well that would make sense except for the slight issue that I only use imperial screws and the large baseplate holes make that a wasted excercise.

[SkinnyWire]

Screw in a hole isn't rocket science. But I wasn't asking you about rocket science; I asked you if you were making pickups.

The screw holes in every humbucker baseplate I've been able to purchase are not quite in line with the bobbin holes. These have the effect of keeping the screw tight anyway. So tap the bobbins and stop your fussing.

This is the case if you're using StewMac frames with GJ bobbins for sure. The StewMac frames appear to be 49.5mm or so which I believe is "vintage correct" whereas the GJ bobbins are 50mm. Doesn't sound like much of a difference, and it really doesn't matter with the metric screws, but with a regular 5-40 one or more screws can be pulled off center due to the fit. I drill the holes in the frame slightly larger if I use the StewMac frames. These issues don't exist with the GJ frames and other 50mm frames I've used.

YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary

[Stan H]

So, where is Zamm with all the sources?

[NightWinder]

Great point Stan>

[Spence]

Lesson number 5,643,211 :

Never suck up to strangers promising the earth !

[mick]

Like all the others , promising the earth and delivering nothing but shit....

[Possum]

@@@@@@

well thats why I tried to get real numbers and a list from him, maybe he's just busy, not everyone lives on the internet like us weenies do......

Don't forget Dr. X may show up someone and shock the shit out of everyone, I woulnd't be surprised....

[NightWinder]

You can see that clearly on the GJ bobbins on the top. I know what your at with this. Well noted. That was my initial thought too. Thanks Joe, You rock!

[NightWinder]

Are we Summoning the Devil or what?

[Zamm]

Hey guys, sorry for my delay, I just received a large order of Gotoh parts and have been bogged down trying to sort and catalog all if it.

I am not promising the world, I would love to supply a part that can make every one happy. I'm waiting on samples from a few potential suppliers. Are the any parts that are considered perfect?

I can imagine everyones part could be slightly different, I would assume the vintage parts should be what is copied properly. I am open to suggestions and when I do receive sample I would like to ship them to a few members that do large quantities for their approval.

Once I find a proper supplier it will take 2-4 months to have a production run made, once that is done I will do my best to have the best parts in stock at affordable prices.

[corduroyew]

Just keep us all informed. Are you thinking of putting up a parts and price list? or organizing a co op type buy and they more we order the lower the price?

[Zamm]

I will have the parts listed on my website they can be purchased through my shopping cart. I will also offer wholesale discounts.

[madialex]

I am open to suggestions and when I do receive sample I would like to ship them to a few members that do large quantities for their approval.

Once I find a proper supplier it will take 2-4 months to have a production run made, once that is done I will do my best to have the best parts in stock at affordable prices.

OH no, not this again, the only guys who can get the parts are high volume guys. May as well go with GJ if there will be ungodly minimums to get. Back to the ole drawing board for the little guys I guess, or am i reading it wrong as I am known to do.