I have the clear one. BTW it's a little thick did you order the thinner too(xylene)?
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conformant spray no good.....
Well, guess what, this spray lacquer conformant stuff is BLUE. It looks clear but on forbon you can see it has a blue tint which looks real bad. Spraying fender type bobbins is a pain in the ASS :-) And after two days drying it failed the wind test. I think Ben's first comment from Fralin was the true deal, superglue. I think the spray lacquer thing was BS :-)http://www.SDpickups.com
Stephens Design Pickups
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clarification
possum
still a little unclear.
According to earlier posts, you dip the bobbin in nitro lacquer to seal everything. and then you're looking to add additional insulation just for the end rods (where the tension is the greatest) where you're finding shorts please clarify
Have you tried the super glue yet?
Stew-mac has some as well as the other link below:
The glue accellerators look interesting. you can apply it to surface before or after glue application to harden it quicker. I bet it is super glue. My Glyptal arrived. I'll mess with it when i get some time.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_a...per_Glues.html
http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/cat...16f46a354cead4
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whooops....
I looked back earlier in the thread and realized you did use the superglue and didn't work. sorry...
But still...Would there be anything wrong with dipping the entire bobbin in some satin lacquer, letting it dry, and then brushing on some Glyptal (full strength) on the end rods to ensure it's insulated.
just a thought.
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The cure and how to get it
I've been researching wire insulation and realized that
lacquers and paints do not dry so much as they cure and harden,
never mind how.
Ultraviolet light accelerates this reaction and brings it to completion.
Has anyone tried curing lacquer/paint/whatever
under a novelty black light?
-drh
"The Internet: diss what you know; flame what you don't."He who moderates least moderates best.
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Dr S.
It takes a lot of UV to get the cure underway. Typically a month of sunlight. The curing bulb that your dentist uses costs several hundred dollars. A handheld rig for curing guitar finishes costs about $2500. Ebay might yield something useful but one would probably want to use an actual UV cured polyester finish or UV powdercoat to reap the benefits.
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yeah more than a lot of high intensity uv light and these mothers do cost a lot and you would get a bit more out of a sunbed lamp than a gimmicy black light.
Infra red heat bars will do the trick but will get everything very hot as will gas heaters of the propane type that uses a platinum screen to crack the gas and send out the heat but a least they are a cheaper and much safer option. have any of you guys gone away from lacquers and used epoxy resin glue like 24 hour curing Araldite smeared on with a finger it does seal it off completely and sticks like hell with a very fine coating. also structural acrylic adhesive and that stuff cures in 10 mins and will take a hammer to crack it.
Clean it off you fingers with alcohol and stand the magnets on waxed paper so thay don't stick down.
Jonson.
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Here is a source for lamps for price comparisons and features. IMO these lamps seem a lot safer than putting the dipped bobbins in the oven. With the fumes and all ...spontaneous combustion .
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/caswell_lamp.html
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Hi guys...
I don't know if it helps, but last monday i had insomnia and made 4 single coils in one night. Before that night, I had at least one trouble with everything I've tried to insulate magnets on the singlecoils I made:
-Nothing
-Tape
-Lacquer
-Epoxy
-Varnish
-Etc...
But that night I thought... Should if I mix everything?
The probability of making a mistake if you use more than a single method of magnet insulation is reduced if you use more than one...
So... I first applied varnish to the assembled bobbin and magnets, let it dry for an hour. Then I put the paper tape, and finally used nail lacquer over the paper tape and the bobbins.
And it worked!
So... that's my experience... hehehe...
Greetings,
Ben
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superglue
superglue DOES work. so far its the only thing that has. I'm trying Qdope but I think its going to be too soft again. the superglue that worked is just common stuff you find in any store. I lacquer dip then when dry hit the end poles with superglue coating. I'm not done looking for solutions yet though...http://www.SDpickups.com
Stephens Design Pickups
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speed costs. How fast do you want to go?
Originally posted by David King View PostDr S.
It takes a lot of UV to get the cure underway. Typically a month of sunlight. The curing bulb that your dentist uses costs several hundred dollars. A handheld rig for curing guitar finishes costs about $2500. Ebay might yield something useful but one would probably want to use an actual UV cured polyester finish or UV powdercoat to reap the benefits.
WRT the dental lamp, its FDA-approval adds a lot to the cost.
The handheld rig for guitar finishes is doubtless for fast cures,
in the order of 10's of minutes, yes?
It comes down to how fast you want results.
I'm thinking of an air-cure accelerator,not so much
a high-speed replacement for it.
If overnight UV exposure at modest levels is all it takes
to get something harder than an ordinary air cure, it may
be worth looking at.
-drh
"The Internet: Diss what you know; flame what you don't."He who moderates least moderates best.
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Originally posted by kevinT View Postafter thinking about it, you're probably right....kind of reminds me of rubber cement used in grade school.
I think the glyptal is more promising. I order 2 quarts becuase the minimum is $30.
It does come in black and red.
http://www.gesupply.com/cgi-bin/prd/...fromPage=logon
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