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Coil Shorts - Tried the Q Dope

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  • #16
    All this trouble... just get some "invisible" tape and use that! It's thin... wont take up much room.

    It shouldn't matter if wax doesn't get between the magnets... there's nothing there anyway.
    It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein


    http://coneyislandguitars.com
    www.soundcloud.com/davidravenmoon

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    • #17
      Im always looking for other alternatives. I can tolerate the longer curing times with other methods too. Theres another thread going on "magnet insulation", where the topic is basically the same, with no resolved answer to faster curing times and such......
      Sure, it matters if wax gets between the poles.Air chambers in the air pocket between the poles, which would resonate a pitch......filling that void without getting to much wax in the coil is what I would aim for, not totally suppressing the coil, which would be very dull.
      I think the point to dipping the bobbin, is to insure a tight, solid assembly without the worries of flareups at the ends, and shorts which are directly caused because of the assembly. Solidify the assembly. Simply assembling a single coil from stew mac relying on their tight fit construction alone is like showing up to a knife fight without a knife. Different voicings and tensions can be achieved with a rock solid construction.

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      • #18
        As for curing times, I put the lacquered bobbins on my wire rack and then under a 150W flood lamp.

        Click image for larger version

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        30 min cure time.
        sigpic Dyed in the wool

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        • #19
          Originally posted by NightWinder View Post
          Well, I made some Dope. Heres whats up. The dope I made was a recommendation of Joe Gwinn's. Mek and jewel cases.
          It is milky white in color, and smells like nail polish. Well, I spread some single coils around with a brush, and let dry.
          Observation #1. After drying, It turned a white color, even on the magnets. Seems to be flaking off and not wanting to adhere to the forbon, or magnets. I did another coil, and this time, degreased with Isopropyl Alcohol. Same thing. Did seem to not flake off too much, but still seems unable to penetrate and get a good hold.
          Sounds like bad Q-Dope to me. Hard to say why, but too thick sounds correct. The stuff I made with packing peanuts and toluene dries clear and adheres quite well, although it does look slightly milky and greenish in solution.

          How long was it between making the Q Dope and first use? This matters, and it may take longer for jewel cases to fully dissolve than expanded polystyrene packing peanuts.

          I'm thinking maybe a little more Mek to thin it out. BTW, This Dope looks exactly like the Q-Dope, with the same consistancy and color. The Q-Dope also turns white, and flakes too. Any Ideas.......Joe, Do I have the consistency too thick? This stuff is really the exact same thing as the Q dope, without the pricetag, and you can make alot more. I suspect the mix is too thick........
          It's hard to say how thick it is remotely, but it sure sounds too thick and there is no harm in thinning it as an experiment. And/or adding some toulene.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Joe Gwinn View Post
            Sounds like bad Q-Dope to me. Hard to say why, but too thick sounds correct. The stuff I made with packing peanuts and toluene dries clear and adheres quite well, although it does look slightly milky and greenish in solution.

            How long was it between making the Q Dope and first use? This matters, and it may take longer for jewel cases to fully dissolve than expanded polystyrene packing peanuts.

            It's hard to say how thick it is remotely, but it sure sounds too thick and there is no harm in thinning it as an experiment. And/or adding some toulene.
            The first batch was the bullshit batch. 2 cases and some mek. That has been in there as long as the thread was posted.4 weeks? The second batch has been a week, as this is what I was using. Yeah, I think It is just too thick. It does'nt even want to drip off the brush.......Add some more Mek? By the way, I have some bottles with brushes on the caps too, so any extra mix is going in there to get capped off. I would'nt mind bottleing some up and sending it off to some who are interested. Beats going to waste. Im thinking if I can bottle it up, and put it in a cool dry dark place, I may be able to keep it for 6 months. Got to remember guys, a little goes a really long way with this stuff, so a small bottle would last ages if you store it properly
            The consistancey is quite thick from my homemade stuff I have been using for ages. Little bit different. Thanks for all the advice Joe/Spence. If anyone wants to try the finished concocktion........

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            • #21
              Originally posted by NightWinder View Post
              The first batch was the bullshit batch. 2 cases and some mek. That has been in there as long as the thread was posted.4 weeks? The second batch has been a week, as this is what I was using. Yeah, I think It is just too thick. It does'nt even want to drip off the brush.......Add some more Mek?
              Yes, add MEK.

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              • #22
                ahhh, those lights are devils. Used to burn myself trying to finish trimming homes (finsh carpentry) after the sun set. Those lil demons get hot, and sure would cure.....Go one Spence.

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                • #23
                  FWIW pre-cat conversion varnish will dry just as clear and hard as nitro, in about 10 minutes. Only catch is that the air temp has to be 68°F or warmer, and you don't want to breathe the fumes.

                  I've just started shooting clear coats on guitars with this stuff, and I love it.
                  "Are you boys the police?"

                  "No ma'am....we're musicians."

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by erikbojerik View Post
                    FWIW pre-cat conversion varnish will dry just as clear and hard as nitro, in about 10 minutes. Only catch is that the air temp has to be 68°F or warmer, and you don't want to breathe the fumes.

                    I've just started shooting clear coats on guitars with this stuff, and I love it.
                    That's what Rickenbacker uses. I used to use two part catalyzed nitro lacquer (sherwin williams). That was good stuff too.
                    It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein


                    http://coneyislandguitars.com
                    www.soundcloud.com/davidravenmoon

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