I've defeated eyelet snag!!

[rhgwynn]

Despite all the eyelet resetting, and all my best efforts (and probably, not having guide-collars [yet]) - I was still getting eyelet snag, and it pissed me off into an epiphany. I was determined to never deal with it again, ever.

Two words - FOIL TAPE

Not only does it crease and fold flat, it lays flat, and is super sticky (great for mounting the pickup to the winder); if you take a strip and put it over the eyelets and fold it over under the pickup, press it on real smooth, you will get absolutely no snag whatsoever. You wont have to stop every so often just to double check; even though you can usually feel it when it happens, at high speeds it can be easy to miss until you check - by then you're usually a few-hundred turns past it - PITA.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone. If anyone has any random tips regarding anything they though was a PITA while winding, post them here!

-Rob

[David Schwab]

I also sometimes put masking tape over the eyelets. The Mojo flatwork is nice because the eyelet does not stick up on the side that you wind.

[shawnl]

I've never liked the way eyelets install on the bobbins for snagging reasons. So I counter sink the eyelet openings so that the eyelets rest flush with the bobbin. Then I also take some fine sandpaper over the top just to make sure its all smoothed out.

[jason lollar]

isnt that in a book somewhere? Alot of people dont know that trick though, it always works

[Stratz]

I counter sink the eyelet openings so that the eyelets rest flush with the bobbin. Then I also take some fine sandpaper over the top just to make sure its all smoothed out.

Been doing it this way for ever.

Still not much chance of a snag even without setting and sanding unless I'm daydreaming and put the bottom flatwork on upside down so the factory end is facing the winding. Done that before.

Most all of my own guitars have reject pickups in them. Stuff I'd never try and pass off unless it was for a friend or a freebee. Maybe a single coil with a stray wind or a bucker bobbin with the wire windows are opposite each other but mostly stuff you cant see.

You know the old saying.... never buy a mechanics personal car.

[Stratz]

isnt that in a book somewhere? Alot of people dont know that trick though, it always works

Ya know Jason. I think I still have your book somewhere around here. I got it as a gift from my wife in '94 or maybe '95. I remember that we had just moved into a new place and it was a Xmas gift. I don't remember if I ever read it, or at least read the entire thing. I'm going to see if I can dig it up right now. Should be fun If I find it.

[copperheadroads]

Stewmac flatwork has the eyelets sticking up a little but it's never been much of a problem .
the assembled bobbin is dried after a dunk in lacquer ,I give the flats a quick sanding to take care of any snags on rough areas including the eyelets

[rhgwynn]

Stewmac flatwork has the eyelets sticking up a little but it's never been much of a problem .
the assembled bobbin is dried after a dunk in lacquer ,I give the flats a quick sanding to take care of any snags on rough areas including the eyelets

I used stewmac flats, even sprayed them with poly after assembly, AND sanded them, AND re-set them; And STILL I got snags underneath...it's just time to go to the hardware store and buy some shaft collars. I'm sure I wont have any problems after that.

-Rob

[kayakerca]

I also sometimes put masking tape over the eyelets. The Mojo flatwork is nice because the eyelet does not stick up on the side that you wind.

I REALLY like that about the Mojo flatwork.

[big_teee]

I REALLY like that about the Mojo flatwork.

I agree.
I still do a lot of sanding on the inside edges of the flatwork.
a rough edge can also snag or cut the wire.

[Joe Gwinn]

A rough edge can also snag or cut the wire.

One trick is to make a pair of bobbin winding plates with recesses to accept the top and bottom plates of the bobbin. The winding plates are slightly thicker than the bobbin top/bottom plates, and prevent the wire from snagging on the edges of the top/bottom plates. Making such winding plates for you winder may save time overall, by reducing the need for careful sanding.

[big_teee]

One trick is to make a pair of bobbin winding plates with recesses to accept the top and bottom plates of the bobbin. The winding plates are slightly thicker than the bobbin top/bottom plates, and prevent the wire from snagging on the edges of the top/bottom plates. Making such winding plates for you winder may save time overall, by reducing the need for careful sanding.

Not that big of a deal if you use a disk, or belt sander.
You want the flatwork smooth regardless, of how you wind it.
On Single coils, I sand the flatwork, bevel the magnets, then assemble.
Probably not how some do it, but it works for me.
T

[rhgwynn]

One trick is to make a pair of bobbin winding plates with recesses to accept the top and bottom plates of the bobbin. The winding plates are slightly thicker than the bobbin top/bottom plates, and prevent the wire from snagging on the edges of the top/bottom plates. Making such winding plates for you winder may save time overall, by reducing the need for careful sanding.

That sounds like a great idea. It probably works pretty great to prevent flaring on the ends, too.

-R

[Joe Gwinn]

That sounds like a great idea. It probably works pretty great to prevent flaring on the ends, too.

Yes, it can, if things are designed correctly.

[David Schwab]

Not that big of a deal if you use a disk, or belt sander.
You want the flatwork smooth regardless, of how you wind it.
On Single coils, I sand the flatwork, bevel the magnets, then assemble.
Probably not how some do it, but it works for me.
T

I never find a need to do any of that. I don't bevel my alnico rod magnets either.

I do file some burrs off of plastic bobbins though.