Aging AlNiCo?

[rhgwynn]

I just had a customer tell me he wants beveled poles because it gives it that "vintage vibe" and proceeded to ask me about aged looks...can anyone give a little insight here? I think there is quite a bit that contributes to an aged vintage appearance; and I am not sure it can really be "faked" well. How? Should I just rub the poles with dirty greasy fingers? ...

-Robert

[David Schwab]

The beveled poles were just to make it easier to put the pickup together.

I think there are some threads on here about giving an aged look. Hopefully someone will chime in that remembers.

I've aged humbucker pole screws by hanging them over vinegar. Not sure about alnico.

[big_teee]

I keep a bottle of the birchwood casey permablue handy.(gun Bluing)
It works great on steell and will age alnico a bit.
T

[copperheadroads]

Rub some snake oil on them

[RCI Guitars]

From what I have heard, Fender started beveling the Alnico poles because of chipping while the poles were cut to size...not sure if its B.S. or not. It makes bobbin assembly nicer. I use PC board etching solution and it gives them that nice "hand sweat" oxidized look. Its what works for me.

[rhgwynn]

I was thinking more like this?



-Rob

[Lyrebird Steve]

I keep a bottle of the birchwood casey permablue handy.(gun Bluing)
It works great on steell and will age alnico a bit.
T

Would the Aluninium Black work well on AlNiCo ...

Birchwood Casey: Finishing Details

... looks like the effect Rob is after ?

[big_teee]

Would the Aluninium Black work well on AlNiCo ...

Birchwood Casey: Finishing Details

... looks like the effect Rob is after ?

That may work better, I don't know.
I get the perma blue at Wally World, in the sporting good section.
Don't think they carry the alumiblack.
T

[copperheadroads]

The gun blue works LIKE A CHARM on alnico

[David King]

I'll have to try a little ferric chloride. It's pretty corrosive stuff.

[rhgwynn]

I would absolutely love to see some before and after pictures fellas

-Robert

[davos]

Another +1 for permablue. I've used it on steel rails and alnico, works well on both. I do find it tricky to get it even, I think that's down to my prep not being great. I find degreasing the parts first makes a big difference when you blue something.

I've used Ferric Chloride on nickel parts a bunch of times for relicing etc (DON'T use it on aluminium! It fizzes and goes black in a chemistry lesson gone bad way). I wondered if it would stay active on alnico rods though, seems like it could burn through the insulation on the wire?

Dave

[big_teee]

Another +1 for permablue. I've used it on steel rails and alnico, works well on both. I do find it tricky to get it even, I think that's down to my prep not being great. I find degreasing the parts first makes a big difference when you blue something.

I've used Ferric Chloride on nickel parts a bunch of times for relicing etc (DON'T use it on aluminium! It fizzes and goes black in a chemistry lesson gone bad way). I wondered if it would stay active on alnico rods though, seems like it could burn through the insulation on the wire?

Dave

You would want to avoid use of any chemicals on wound pickups.
just on bare metal parts before winding, is ideal.
I was wondering what to use on stainless, the permablue has little effect on stainless.

[jonson]

The beveling of magnets seems to come up quite often and nobody ever comes up with the most obvious. Maybe it was something Leo with his engineering mind came up with I don't know. I also don't know what Stwemac or Mojo drill or punch their holes at but when I'm using .187s I DRILL TO .182 and bevel the mags. Yes it makes life easier to assemble but it also forces the magnet in tight whereas a sharp end cuts a new hole and increases your chance of flareing the top and sometimes bottom flatwork by a huge ammount.

[David Schwab]

The beveling of magnets seems to come up quite often and nobody ever comes up with the most obvious. Maybe it was something Leo with his engineering mind came up with I don't know. I also don't know what Stwemac or Mojo drill or punch their holes at but when I'm using .187s I DRILL TO .182 and bevel the mags. Yes it makes life easier to assemble but it also forces the magnet in tight whereas a sharp end cuts a new hole and increases your chance of flareing the top and sometimes bottom flatwork by a huge ammount.

Their flatwork is laser cut.

I don't get new holes cut with the non beveled magnets, but they are tricky to get lined up. I might try drilling the holes out a little bit.