Logo Stamp

[rhgwynn]

My lovely Missus hand-crafted a wonderful logo stamp for me to brand my pickups with. A loving and supportive mate is definitely something I won't take for granted. My first orders are going out later this week, so it's come just in time. I'll come back and post pics of branded pickups when she gets back with the white ink.

-Rob

[Bryan Jeppson]

Sweet. I've just been using avery brand clear return address labels with a logo printed from my computer. Peel, stick, then brush a coat of shellac to seal.
How tough is it to get a customized rubber stamp made? (Seeing as how my wife moved out 2 years ago I don't. Have an other half to just give me one.)

[rhgwynn]

Sweet. I've just been using avery brand clear return address labels with a logo printed from my computer. Peel, stick, then brush a coat of shellac to seal.
How tough is it to get a customized rubber stamp made? (Seeing as how my wife moved out 2 years ago I don't. Have an other half to just give me one.)

You could go here: Hand Stamps Custom - Use with Separate Pad - RubberStampChamp.com

Or get a pink rubber eraser and carve one out yourself (what she did). You're gonna want to go to an art supply store (a fancy one, not like michael's) and buy acrylic printing ink, and a small speedball roller. It's best to ink them in batches. You put a smear of ink on a piece of glass and spread it out with your roller and coat the roller well, and evenly. Then roll it onto the stamp. Stamp, ink, stamp, ink; you get the idea. Keep it clean when not in use.

-Rob

[rhgwynn]

My lovely Missus hand-crafted a wonderful logo stamp for me to brand my pickups with. A loving and supportive mate is definitely something I won't take for granted. My first orders are going out later this week, so it's come just in time. I'll come back and post pics of branded pickups when she gets back with the white ink.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]22247[/ATTACH]
-Rob

-Rob

[David Schwab]

So, do you write the DC resistance to show the pickup is in spec, or out of spec?

[rhgwynn]

So, do you write the DC resistance to show the pickup is in spec, or out of spec?

I'm not sure what you mean. That spec is what the customer ordered. They are getting more than one, I guess they'd wanna know which is which. Some write it, some dont; right? I would have stamped it on nice and neat so it matched, but the store didnt have the little numbers in stock.

-Rob

[big_teee]

What is the SM for?

[rhgwynn]

What is the SM for?

Satori Magnetics.

-Rob

[big_teee]

Satori Magnetics.

-Rob

Oh!!
I figured it stood for StewMac!

[rhgwynn]

Haha, naw, these are actually mojo flatwork.

-Rob

[big_teee]

Haha, naw, these are actually mojo flatwork.

-Rob

Not trying to pick on you, but on the DCR?
How do you know when the eyelets are not soldered?
When do you do that?
I guess no lead wires because of the picture OP.
And what is that supposed to be in the middle?
Sorry for all the ???s

[rhgwynn]

Not trying to pick on you, but on the DCR?
How do you know when the eyelets are not soldered?
When do you do that?
I guess no lead wires because of the picture OP.
And what is that supposed to be in the middle?
Sorry for all the ???s

You've got a point, I guess it could change a little; you can still test it with the insulation sanded off. The leads will get soldered on after the ink dries. Then it's gonna get potted. It's done in 42HFV, and the customer want it for their bridge. I actually had two people order the same thing; so, I'm making another one later tonight or tomorrow.

-Rob

[big_teee]

You've got a point, I guess it could change a little; you can still test it with the insulation sanded off. The leads will get soldered on after the ink dries. Then it's gonna get potted. It's done in 42HFV, and the customer want it for their bridge. I actually had two people order the same thing; so, I'm making another one later tonight or tomorrow.

-Rob

Sounds like you have a Plan!
Good Luck,
T

[David Schwab]

I'm not sure what you mean. That spec is what the customer ordered. They are getting more than one, I guess they'd wanna know which is which. Some write it, some dont; right? I would have stamped it on nice and neat so it matched, but the store didnt have the little numbers in stock.

My point is that since that's what it reads, there's no point writing it on the pickup. If you are doing neck, bridge, middle, etc, you can write that on them. People will understand that, but the DC resistance is otherwise meaningless. Notice that only some "boutique" winders write resistance on their pickups. None of the big makers do it.

[Joe Gwinn]

You've got a point, I guess it could change a little; you can still test it with the insulation sanded off. The leads will get soldered on after the ink dries. Then it's gonna get potted. It's done in 42HFV, and the customer want it for their bridge. I actually had two people order the same thing; so, I'm making another one later tonight or tomorrow.

The most useful thing to have on the pickup (along with your trade name) is a serial number, so you can go back to your records when a broken or to be upgraded unit comes back. Serial numbers that encode the manufacture date in some obvious manner are also helpful to people. A fine-point Pilot silver marker should work well for this.