Logo Stamp

[David Schwab]

I just lacquer dipped some SC bobbins this morning, 9 A2's and 9 A5's. I had written A2 or A5 on half of each with a sharpie type pen and half with a paint pen (don't know why I used the Sharpie, I just grabbed it out of the pen cup). The Sharpie pen labelling was washed off by the lacquer. This is the first and last time I will use a Sharpie pen on p/u's. Now I have to magnetize half the bobbins to find out if they are 2's or 5's.

Jim, you dumbass! ! !

You should dip them first. Lacquer has solvents in it. That has noting to do with using a Sharpie.

Use a pencil if you want to mark them as far as the magnets.

[kayakerca]

You should dip them first. Lacquer has solvents in it. That has noting to do with using a Sharpie.

Use a pencil if you want to mark them as far as the magnets.

Those fine tip paint pens actually work really well and neither the lacquer or wax potting affects them. I also like them because they have excellent contrast on the bobbin material which makes them easy to read.

[David Schwab]

Those fine tip paint pens actually work really well and neither the lacquer or wax potting affects them. I also like them because they have excellent contrast on the bobbin material which makes them easy to read.

I used to use the silver paint pens and they often came off in wax, or at the very least got very blurry. But I just used them so I knew which bobbin was which. I do that now with a sharpie. Mostly I used the paint pens for the bottom of the pickups.

[kayakerca]

I used to use the silver paint pens and they often came off in wax, or at the very least got very blurry. But I just used them so I knew which bobbin was which. I do that now with a sharpie. Mostly I used the paint pens for the bottom of the pickups.

I use Pentouch® Metallic Ink Marker

I put the magnet info on the raw forbon flatwork bottom before I lacquer, then before I pot, I write the other info on top of the lacquer. You can see in post 25 above that is very readable and doesn't smear. Makes me wonder if different pain pens react differently to lacquer or wax.

[Stratz]

Those fine tip paint pens actually work really well and neither the lacquer or wax potting affects them. I also like them because they have excellent contrast on the bobbin material which makes them easy to read.

Yup, Sharpie and Uni paint pens (both from Sanford/Rubbermaid) work great and will not smear due to wax potting but they dry up too quick unless you're going to be marking a lot of pickups in a few days time .

I sometimes use a Brother P-touch 2430 to make my labels. The P-touch "TZ" tape stands up to a lot of heat, chemicals and is UV resistant.

[Lyrebird Steve]

The Sharpie pen labelling was washed off by the lacquer. This is the first and last time I will use a Sharpie pen on p/u's.

I did exactly the same thing ... I "Coloured" in the bottom of the mags with Blue (A2) and Green (A3) for some test PuPs ... looked really nice until I pulled them out of the NC Lacquer. I have 6 sets of Aqua marine magnets

Worst part is that I actually made the 40minute return trip to the office supply shop specifically to get coloured sharpies

I've been told to put a drop of nail polish, worried now that this might run as well ... anyone confirm/deny before I "brighten up" another bobbin ?

[Lyrebird Steve]

I sometimes use a Brother P-touch 2430 to make my labels. The P-touch "TZ" tape stands up to a lot of heat, chemicals and is UV resistant.

I started doing this ... but lots of labels ended up at the bottom of the wax-crock-pot.

Here in Australia we pay almost $30 a reel for the labels, so not very cost efficient for me

[Stratz]

I started doing this ... but lots of labels ended up at the bottom of the wax-crock-pot.

Here in Australia we pay almost $30 a reel for the labels, so not very cost efficient for me

I don't wax pot my pickups for any longer than 60 seconds so that may be part of that issue. You can also put the labels on after the pickups are potted if you soak yours in wax for a long time and it's causing the labels to fall off.

As far as the P-Touch tape goes, I can get 120 labels out of one 26' roll.
I got lucky and bought nine or ten 26 foot rolls of TZ tape on ebay for less than $25 total a while back. I think I'm set for a while

With the amount of pickups I put labels on the P-touch is much more economical than using paint pens.
Also, with the P-Touch I have the ability to create custom logos for my own pickups as well as the builders that I make pickups for

[David Schwab]

I've been told to put a drop of nail polish, worried now that this might run as well ... anyone confirm/deny before I "brighten up" another bobbin ?

Nail polish is lacquer. Lacquer melts lacquer. Color them after you dip them in lacquer.

[RedHouse]

...I can get 120 labels out of one 26' roll...

BTW, you can get more out of a cartridge if you use the PT1230pc printer, those hand-held units always have way too much "leader" on each label ya print, the 1230pc software allows you to set the leader length and minimize that waste.
(and you can load BMPs into it to print on your labels)

[Stratz]

BTW, you can get more out of a cartridge if you use the PT1230pc printer, those hand-held units always have way too much "leader" on each label ya print, the 1230pc software allows you to set the leader length and minimize that waste.
(and you can load BMPs into it to print on your labels)

Hey Brad, the P-touch 2430 isnt a hand held, it's PC based. I can insert images for logo's and chose different fonts etc;
I make the labels 2.6" long for both single coil and humbucker pickups.

There is always about a 1/2" piece of wasted tape between labels. I don't know if I can correct that or not, never really put too much thought in to it.

The only pickups I cant use it for are the ones that have the rod magnets protruding below the flat-work such as P/J bass and some non traditional Strat and Tele models.

[RedHouse]

Hey Brad, the P-touch 2430 isnt a hand held, it's PC based...

Ah, my bad.

[David Schwab]

First, how long will the stickum take to fail, allowing the label to fall off and be lost.

The other day I attempted to remove a label that had been on a pickup for a couple of weeks, and could not do so without it ripping and leaving paper behind. Then I had to try and scrape some of that off with my fingernail, and after not getting too far with that, just stuck a new label over it.

So the Avery labels stick very well.

[Joe Gwinn]

The other day I attempted to remove a label that had been on a pickup for a couple of weeks, and could not do so without it ripping and leaving paper behind. Then I had to try and scrape some of that off with my fingernail, and after not getting too far with that, just stuck a new label over it.

So the Avery labels stick very well.

Ask again in five years. Most Avery labels will have dried out and fallen off by then.

[kayakerca]

The other day I attempted to remove a label that had been on a pickup for a couple of weeks, and could not do so without it ripping and leaving paper behind. Then I had to try and scrape some of that off with my fingernail, and after not getting too far with that, just stuck a new label over it. .

Have you tried using a heat gun for removing labels David? Carefully of course. I even use it to take the UPS type labels off delivery boxes so I can reuse them. It is amazing what a "little" bit of heat can do for glue. Just like when you're pulling frets.