broke a seymour duncan STR-1, need opinion from pickup expert

[slim_blues_boy]

hi, I have STR-1 pickup for Telecaster.
yesterday while I was trying to remove the cover, accidentally I cut some magnet wire inside the bobbin

I decided to unwound the wire and hoping I'm not cutting too deep.
well after couple turns (I'm not counting, maybe few hundreds), all the broken wire was remove.
I measured DC resistance, originally I got around 7,6k before I messed it up, but later I got around 7k.

after that, I tried to put the wire that I've salvaged previously while unwound the pickup back. I connected them and start to wind them back.
but after I finished, I got around 7,7k DC resistance. I don't have any knowledge but as far as I know, with less turn (I throw away some wire that not too long) I should got less DC resistance, am I right? so why I got 7,7k while the pickup used to got 7,6k with more turns?

also, how big the sound will change after all that happens? I haven't been able to try it again since I'm still waiting for neck replacement for my Tele which will not come until next 2-3 weeks time.

I wound the pickup entirely by hand, in random motion (scatterwound?), and I tried to fill the bobbin evenly.
am I doing the better thing by putting the wire back after I remove the broken one? or I should leave it and accept 7k DC resistance?

thx

[big_teee]

A warm Pickup will read higher DCR than a Cool Pickup.
As you wind the wire back on the pickup, the holding and handling the pickup has warmed it.
So try rechecking the DCR with the pickup cooled off.
The other thing could be if you have a good solder joint or not on your wire splice.
The winding by hand should be fine.
T

[rhgwynn]

A warm Pickup will read higher DCR than a Cool Pickup.
As you wind the wire back on the pickup, the holding and handling the pickup has warmed it.
So try rechecking the DCR with the pickup cooled off.
The other thing could be if you have a good solder joint or not on your wire splice.
The winding by hand should be fine.
T

What he said.

-Rob

[slim_blues_boy]

ahhh, I see. new knowledge, thanks guys.

well, as for the solder join, I sanded the wire a little bit, put them together side by side, and give a little bit soldering in there. I tried to do minimum soldering.

I'll check it again, I think it's already cooled down by now.

[big_teee]

ahhh, I see. new knowledge, thanks guys.

well, as for the solder join, I sanded the wire a little bit, put them together side by side, and give a little bit soldering in there. I tried to do minimum soldering.

I'll check it again, I think it's already cooled down by now.

There are several different ways to splice.
David S. does the wrapping both ends around a bare piece of 28 Gauge then soldering.
I twist the 2 wires together into a pigtail.
I put the pigtail in the hands free clip vise.
I solder right in front of where the two wires twist together.
Trim the excess soldered wire off, and spray with lacquer, or coat with finger nail polish and let dry.
T

[rhgwynn]

There are several different ways to splice.
David S. does the wrapping both ends around a bare piece of 28 Gauge then soldering.
I twist the 2 wires together into a pigtail.
I put the pigtail in the hands free clip vise.
I solder right in front of where the two wires twist together.
Trim the excess soldered wire off, and spray with lacquer, or coat with finger nail polish and let dry.
T

My method the ends, twist them around each other in a straight splice. the solder them. It's neat, and doesnt take up extra space. Always test for continuity through the splice before you resume winding though.

-Rob

[big_teee]

My method the ends, twist them around each other in a straight splice. the solder them. It's neat, and doesnt take up extra space. Always test for continuity through the splice before you resume winding though.

-Rob

If it works that is fine.
with a inline splice you have more heat stress on each of the two wires.
with a pigtail you can solder in front of the wires and less chance of stress.
Like I said several ways, and whatever works for you.
T

[Telemachos]

Why bother w. soldering. The dull STR-1 can benefit from tossing those 2-300 turns right into the trash can. Transparecy now!!

[Telemachos]

On my equipment the SD-STR-1 reads 7,9 DCR, 2,26 Hy, 8,55 Peak Res, @ an average of 1150 Gauss pulling power at the mags. You could even unwind 1000 turns if you like. It would still give you a better tone IMO.

[slim_blues_boy]

DC resistance was back to around 7,6k, which make sense since I only removed few turn after all.
thank you for all suggestion .

On my equipment the SD-STR-1 reads 7,9 DCR, 2,26 Hy, 8,55 Peak Res, @ an average of 1150 Gauss pulling power at the mags. You could even unwind 1000 turns if you like. It would still give you a better tone IMO.

well Telemachos, so you thing I should stick with 7k (removing the wire that I've been rewound)?
I'm quite new to Tele guitar. I used to be a humbucker kind of guy but decided to try something else. I'm just looking for classic Tele sound. my Tele was sungkai wood body (local wood in my country similar to ash) with maple neck and rosewood fretboard, using brass bridge+saddle.
the bridge pickup was unknown one using alnico magnet, vintage style with braided cable. someone said that it was taken out from vintage American Telecaster, but who knows.

[big_teee]

DC resistance was back to around 7,6k, which make sense since I only removed few turn after all.
thank you for all suggestion .



well Telemachos, so you thing I should stick with 7k (removing the wire that I've been rewound)?
I'm quite new to Tele guitar. I used to be a humbucker kind of guy but decided to try something else. I'm just looking for classic Tele sound. my Tele was sungkai wood body (local wood in my country similar to ash) with maple neck and rosewood fretboard, using brass bridge+saddle.
the bridge pickup was unknown one using alnico magnet, vintage style with braided cable. someone said that it was taken out from vintage American Telecaster, but who knows.

for a bridge position I would leave it where it is.
If it sounds ok, and good highs and lows, I would be satisfied.
There is a point if too high the High end falls off.
T

[Telemachos]

DC resistance was back to around 7,6k, which make sense since I only removed few turn after all.
thank you for all suggestion .
well Telemachos, so you thing I should stick with 7k (removing the wire that I've been rewound)?
I'm quite new to Tele guitar. I used to be a humbucker kind of guy but decided to try something else. I'm just looking for classic Tele sound. my Tele was sungkai wood body (local wood in my country similar to ash) with maple neck and rosewood fretboard, using brass bridge+saddle.
the bridge pickup was unknown one using alnico magnet, vintage style with braided cable. someone said that it was taken out from vintage American Telecaster, but who knows.

It's all a matter of taste or of personal preference. SDuncan is a big mass manufacturer, so chances that not all STR-1 sound the same is big. This particular STR-1 I'm working on is too muffled and not very dynamic for my taste. I have simply cut the wire and will rewind it to my own specs, wire and pattern. Suggesting you some number or a mod. would be like blind shooting. However, IF your STR-1 neck Pick Up sounds similar to mine, then I definitely think that not bothering about a few hundred turns less does not represent a problem.
BTW, I don't really like the concept of this PU. Too much pull from full loaded A5 is one of the reasons I dislike it. But again, it's all a matter of pers. preference and in the end it's not a bad PU.

[Telemachos]

for a bridge position I would leave it where it is.
....

It's a neck PU as far as I understood it.

[big_teee]

It's a neck PU as far as I understood it.

Sorry , I bet R1 is for Rhythm.
I make a set where both neck and bridge is 7.5k
But the neck is 43 ga. and the bobbin is pretty tall.
So if its muddy on the low strings, some could come off.

[slim_blues_boy]

Ok, I will try it after I got the neck replacement and see whether it'll suit my taste or not.
Well the bridge pickup was around 7,3k. So together with 7,6k neck should be ok I think.
If it's not, well then, I've nothing to lose to try and remove few turns.
Thank you for all your input.