Laser Cutters

[Jeff Callahan]

Anyone looking at lasers these days? Curious to know if the Full Spectrum or Rabbit are comparable to Epilog or Universal. Also what CAD are you using? I have Rhino, and like it, but don't know if these machines are compatible.

Thanks,
Jeff

[dpm]

I can't tell you much about the lasers except that they're sourced from generic Chinese manufacturers, and that it is possible to buy direct from China cheaper, but there are risks involved and you might be better off sticking to a local supplier for warranty and support reasons. I sourced my CNC router from one of the Chinese factories and it needed a little work on the wiring and axis alignment.

If you're using Rhino for CAD you'll need the RhinoCAM plugin to create and output toolpaths for the machine. RhinoCAM will be capable of doing it but there may not be a compatible 'post' file in there. Essentially what happens is the software creates the basic G-code commands, and when you output the file you do so through a post-processor. The post-processor applies the format to the G-code so your machine can understand it. Different manufacturers take different approaches to exactly what information they recognize and in what order, which is what the post-processor sorts out. You may need to create a post file to suit your machine. RhinoCAM has a utility for this included.

On the subject of lasers, I'm not sure what find of power you need to cut stuff like Forbon. My experience with laser has been in having templates made by others. Laser is relatively cheap for that but the shape of the beam and how it diffracts through different materials, and the heat created, can lead to inaccuracy through the height of the material (ie. tapered edges to the cuts). I'm pretty sure a good operator with modern high end machine could work around the problems I had with the guys I've tried, bur I gave up once I got the CNC router.

[Jeff Callahan]

Thanks dpm,

I run an Anderson CNC (Tawain) at my "real job", and after a few months, the 1.5" ball screw sheared in half! All do to axis (bearing block) alignment. Great service though, we were back up and running after a couple days.

I'm pretty sure you do not need a CAM package to run a laser, it is more like a printer and does not use G-code like a NC router.

I'm thinking Epilog, but don't like that fact that I have to go through Corel to laser anything. I really like Rhino, and have all my files there, so it makes sense to buy a laser that can "print" from any software (or at least Rhino), which is why I've been contemplating the Full Spectrum. They are cheaper Chinese lasers, but have full USA support and a USA designed software package that seems better than the Epilog.

As far as wattage goes, my laser guy runs a 30 or 40 watt Epilog and the pieces look similar to Mojo's, so I think that is fine, but would like to hear what others are using.

Thanks,
Jeff

[copperheadroads]

Anyone looking at lasers these days? Curious to know if the Full Spectrum or Rabbit are comparable to Epilog or Universal. Also what CAD are you using? I have Rhino, and like it, but don't know if these machines are compatible.

Thanks,
Jeff

Great thread .I was considering starting a similar thread ,as I've been inquiring about getting a Laser cutter .
I know you can cut plastic & similar material like forbon,& engrave metal but I oner can one of the 30 watt lasers cut the holes out on a nickel humbucker cover ?

[David Schwab]

I'm thinking Epilog, but don't like that fact that I have to go through Corel to laser anything.

You don't really. When I have stuff laser cut I do all my drawings in Adobe Illustrator. I haven't used CorelDraw in a very long time, and I don't even think they make a Mac version anymore. Most places ask for Corel EPS files, I think because it's a common vector program for Windows, and a lot cheaper than Illustrator, but any vector drawing application should do the trick.

[dpm]

Thanks dpm,

I run an Anderson CNC (Tawain) at my "real job", and after a few months, the 1.5" ball screw sheared in half! All do to axis (bearing block) alignment. Great service though, we were back up and running after a couple days.

I'm pretty sure you do not need a CAM package to run a laser, it is more like a printer and does not use G-code like a NC router.

I'm thinking Epilog, but don't like that fact that I have to go through Corel to laser anything. I really like Rhino, and have all my files there, so it makes sense to buy a laser that can "print" from any software (or at least Rhino), which is why I've been contemplating the Full Spectrum. They are cheaper Chinese lasers, but have full USA support and a USA designed software package that seems better than the Epilog.

As far as wattage goes, my laser guy runs a 30 or 40 watt Epilog and the pieces look similar to Mojo's, so I think that is fine, but would like to hear what others are using.

Thanks,
Jeff

Ah, cool. Sorry, I assumed you didn't have a background in such things

Better software is definitely a selling point, my router came supplied with a few seemingly pirated packages. From what I'm gathering you need to import a compatible drawing file into the supplied NC software and it does the rest? Rhino's .ai export is excellent.

[dpm]

BTW, is that an Anderson Stratos you run? I'm toying with the idea of upgrading to a used big machine and one of those has popped up

[copperheadroads]

Thanks dpm,

I run an Anderson CNC (Tawain) at my "real job", and after a few months, the 1.5" ball screw sheared in half! All do to axis (bearing block) alignment. Great service though, we were back up and running after a couple days.

I'm pretty sure you do not need a CAM package to run a laser, it is more like a printer and does not use G-code like a NC router.

I'm thinking Epilog, but don't like that fact that I have to go through Corel to laser anything. I really like Rhino, and have all my files there, so it makes sense to buy a laser that can "print" from any software (or at least Rhino), which is why I've been contemplating the Full Spectrum. They are cheaper Chinese lasers, but have full USA support and a USA designed software package that seems better than the Epilog.

As far as wattage goes, my laser guy runs a 30 or 40 watt Epilog and the pieces look similar to Mojo's, so I think that is fine, but would like to hear what others are using.

Thanks,
Jeff

A local business here has a 30 watt laser & in the spring ,I will be experimenting getting some bobbins cut ,I'm curious if a 30 watt laser can get the job done with with ease ?

[Jeff Callahan]

Great thread .I was considering starting a similar thread ,as I've been inquiring about getting a Laser cutter .
I know you can cut plastic & similar material like forbon,& engrave metal but I oner can one of the 30 watt lasers cut the holes out on a nickel humbucker cover ?

Lasers of the variety we are talking about can't cut metal, that is a big very expensive laser to do that job.

[Jeff Callahan]

BTW, is that an Anderson Stratos you run? I'm toying with the idea of upgrading to a used big machine and one of those has popped up

Yes, Stratos Nest is the model we run. It is a 5' x 10' table with a 10 tool carousel, direct drive spindle that is water cooled. Nice machine, I recommend them. Fender uses Anderson as well.

[Jeff Callahan]

You don't really. When I have stuff laser cut I do all my drawings in Adobe Illustrator. I haven't used CorelDraw in a very long time, and I don't even think they make a Mac version anymore. Most places ask for Corel EPS files, I think because it's a common vector program for Windows, and a lot cheaper than Illustrator, but any vector drawing application should do the trick.

Thanks David,

My local guy works with my .iges files, but I think he has to "trace" over them before Corel sees them as vectors? Not really sure, but we've tried .dxf, .iges, .stl and a few others, but he can't simply pull the geometry and print without having to trace over them. Seems a little backwards to me. I'd like to get a machine and start experimenting. I bet there is a way to go from a file that Rhino can export to laser without any monkeying around.

[Jeff Callahan]

Ah, cool. Sorry, I assumed you didn't have a background in such things

Better software is definitely a selling point, my router came supplied with a few seemingly pirated packages. From what I'm gathering you need to import a compatible drawing file into the supplied NC software and it does the rest? Rhino's .ai export is excellent.

Kind of, With the Full Spectrum Laser it is more like a printer driver. You click print (in any software program), chose the laser as your printer, and dial in a few parameters (power, speed, vector or raster, etc.) then it does its thing, I think.

I thought Epilog had to go through Corel, but David isn't too sure. Now I'm not really sure, so it sound like I need to investigate a little more.

[Mark Bracewell]

I've been using an Epilog 45w for about 5 years. Cuts forbon just great once you get the hang of allowing for the approx .003 kerf that the laser vaporizes (well, burns, but vaporizes sounds cooler).

You can use other programs besides Corel, but there are hassles. As long as the printer driver gets what it wants it's all good, but different programs describe an infinitely small line in different ways. I've had it working with Inkscape pretty well, but prefer Corel because I have it, and it's real easy to get the laser to do what you want with it.

30w should cut forbon just fine, but there's a rub....

The thicker the material or lower the power, the slower the cut.
The slower the cut, the wider and less crisp the kerf.

A brand new 30w will do a beautiful job, but after many hundreds of hours, the laser tubes begin to crap out and the quality suffers. Our 45w machine now runs at about 25% efficiency - yikes!

[Jeff Callahan]

I've been using an Epilog 45w for about 5 years. Cuts forbon just great once you get the hang of allowing for the approx .003 kerf that the laser vaporizes (well, burns, but vaporizes sounds cooler).

You can use other programs besides Corel, but there are hassles. As long as the printer driver gets what it wants it's all good, but different programs describe an infinitely small line in different ways. I've had it working with Inkscape pretty well, but prefer Corel because I have it, and it's real easy to get the laser to do what you want with it.

30w should cut forbon just fine, but there's a rub....

The thicker the material or lower the power, the slower the cut.
The slower the cut, the wider and less crisp the kerf.

A brand new 30w will do a beautiful job, but after many hundreds of hours, the laser tubes begin to crap out and the quality suffers. Our 45w machine now runs at about 25% efficiency - yikes!

I don't mind using Corel, although I'm not excited to purchase it. My main problem is that I don't want to draw in Corel. I have all my geometry in Rhino CAD and really like the software. I sent a .dxf exported from Rhino to Epilog Testing Center in Colorado. I haven't heard back yet.

Jeff

[jason lollar]

i have a 30 watt and a 60 watt. The 30 watt was my first machine and it cuts fine and will certainly get you buy for a long time. The 60 watt cuts forbon about 4 or 5 times faster than the 30 watt. The 30 watt has trouble cutting 1/2 inch acrylic- it starts to deflect too much but for up to 3/8 thick acrylic or forbon or pick guard material you shouldnt have any problem with a 30 watt- you shouldnt get any major deflection if you focus it correctly and keep the lenses clean. Its just going to be slow compared to a higher powered one like 80 strat bobbin bottoms in 50 minutes- something like that. Its been a while since I used the small one for cutting parts like that so that time may be + or =, it only really gets used anymore for one off unique items or for prototyping or making tooling.
As far as Corel all you really do with that if you have a good compatible cad program is you group objects together and weld the nodes. That way the lazer cuts in - well if you didnt it would cut each bit like all the corners first then the sides which makes for a crappy cut surface. Corel doesnt make a good program for doing mechanical drawings- you can make them but its a real workaround. The other thing corel does is you can scan things like pick guards and turn them into drawings- thats a useable feature.