Tap Threads in Strat Baseplate?

[PoorMan]

Man, I haven't wound a Strat pickup in a long time. Do I need to tap threads in the forbon baseplate for mounting screws? If so, what size tap?

Thanks,
Dave

[jonson]

It can be done without but you run the risk of stripping out the forbon so easier to run a 6-32 unc tap through.

[big_teee]

Like Jonson said use the 6-32 Tap.
I use a 6-32 tap chucked up in my cordless drill.
Is fast and works slick, just don't run the tap in too far and strip it out.

[PoorMan]

Thanks, Gents. Guess what size taps I found amongst all the 5-40s…a bunch of 6-32s. Go figure.

Been a long time.

Thanks again,
Dave

[David King]

With through holes, when you need to do a lot of them, try to source "spiral point taps" aka "gun taps". These are much sharper, efficient and more satisfying to use, especially in a drill.

[rhgwynn]

I've never tapped the holes; I just force the screw into it. I guess you could call it tapping, but it doesn't cut anything out. The forbon gives enough to allow the screw in and keeps a tight squeeze on it. It's a tight fit, but it fits; and I've never stripped it or broken the edge. Never had any complaints about it happening either. Probably done close to 100 pickups this way.

[the great waldo]

If you can find some of the pickup screws from an 80's strat they had a slightly triangular cross section on the start of the thread which was designed to be a form of self tapping screw they work great. Otherwise the wax from potting lubricates a normal screw enough to cut a thread.

Cheers

Andrew

I've never tapped the holes; I just force the screw into it. I guess you could call it tapping, but it doesn't cut anything out. The forbon gives enough to allow the screw in and keeps a tight squeeze on it. It's a tight fit, but it fits; and I've never stripped it or broken the edge. Never had any complaints about it happening either. Probably done close to 100 pickups this way.

[Joe Gwinn]

If you can find some of the pickup screws from an 80's strat they had a slightly triangular cross section on the start of the thread which was designed to be a form of self tapping screw they work great. Otherwise the wax from potting lubricates a normal screw enough to cut a thread.

Those slightly triangular screws are called "trilobular" (a trademark) self tapping screws. Originally from TapTite, now made by many companies.

This kind does machine screw threads: reminc CONTI - TAPTITE II® thread-rolling screws

One can also get trilobular sheet-metal threads.

Even if the screws are expensive, the time saving usually wins out. Trilobular machine screws are used for assembling hard disk drives for another reason - they don't tend to back out under vibration, because the female threads fit the screw perfectly.


Although it's an extra step, one can also get thread-forming taps that roll the threads (versus cutting the threads). In metal, one drills a slightly larger hole for thread-forming taps than for thread-cutting tapes. In Forbon, I doubt that it's all that critical, but I'd do some experiments. Wax is the typical lubricant for thread forming taps or screws.

Thread Forming vs Cutting | Balax | Forming Taps, Cutting Taps, Thread Gages

[SonnyW]

I used to not bother to tap the forbon, until I had a customer that had enough trouble getting the screws to start that he ended up breaking a strand of the magnet wire and I had to warranty the pickup. Now I keep a tap chucked up in a pin vise handle on my bench. It only takes a minute, and it makes installing them quite a bit easier, so it seems like good insurance against that happening again.

[big_teee]

It's not complicated, just use the tap in the drill, it is quick and you are done.
The main thing is to tap the holes before you send it to the customer.
I forgot on one set, and the customer somehow gouged the wire trying to put screws in one of them.
I learned a valuable lesson on that one, now I always tap the screw holes before sending out any forbon based pickups.
T
**I doubled with SonnyW.
Ditto what Sonny said.

[SonnyW]

I was thinking the same thing, Terry. Sounds like we both have had the same issue. Sometimes I do chuck up a tap in a drill if I am doing a bunch of them, and the same goes for using the drill for tapping the holes in humbucker bobbins. IMO, it is just easier all around if the holes are pre-tapped.

[copperheadroads]

Take a 6-32 screw put on a tight fitting driver bit in a drill & grind the end pointy with the drill spinning the screw. with it against a spinning bench grinder ..............thats all I've ever used for threading forbon

[jonson]

A fair few answers for a simple question and each and every has their own way of doing things. Yes you can force a screw through but the one time and it will come, it fails the only thing you will salvage is the top flatwork and the mags the rest is chuck away. As Copper says you can do a pointy but that will also force it through not cut a thread so why not make your own quick tap. The uk when it was only imperial had a full choice of Bsw (british standard whitworth), Bsf (british standard fine) UNC, UNF, BA and 26tpi cycle thraed but now we are both metric and imperial all the imperial thread taps have become non standard 10 times the price for good quality HSS taps and dies.
Over the years I have collected a fair few taps and dies but one comes up occasionally that i've not got so I take a screw the same thread and file or grind a pair of flats in it and you have got a quick cutting edge that will form a thread and is also usefull to repair damaged tapped holes as well. Just my way of doing things.