Metal strips affecting pickups?

[Mike Sulzer]

I might be missing the point, so let me know if I have it wrong, but I think when we remove a piece of the center block to make room for the pickup to come out the back, we add bracing on both sides of the center block. This bracing experiences stretching near the guitar back, compression near the guitar front. A CF rod used near the front of the guitar will bend unless it is surrounded by material that prevents it from doing so. But doing so gets complicated, so why not use something such as a flat piece of metal on each side, a solution simple to execute and very strong?

Not to be argumentative, but if you put CF as close to the back and as close to the top as possible, you put it in the stretch and compressive zones where it does the most good. The idea is to not put most of the CF in the neutral flexture zone. I do sometimes because it's convenient, but ideally, you put CF at the surface of a beam for maximum efficient usage.

I'm just very used to working with the stuff, so it's a "go-to" solution in my bag of tricks.

[Rick Turner]

I was assuming that the CF would be glued along one side at least to prevent flexing, and that would put it in either compression mode or tension mode with no lateral deflection happening. But here we are discussing something with no pictures...which would save 1,000 words, at least.

Believe me, I know how to get the most out of CF. My first patent in that arena was issued in 1978... I do know tension from compression! And I now frequently use CF bonded to wood in both acoustic guitars as well as bass and 12 string necks. Used in just the right place, it doesn't take much to make a big difference. And then there are practicalities of economy where I use it effectively but not particularly efficiently. But the pultruded stuff is amazingly cost effective these days.

[Durrant Pickups]

i have done this to one of my guitars an old epiphone les paul style el' cheapo no significant tonal losses and no compromise on neck joint stability will post photos next chance i get

[Mick Bailey]

I've used FR4 sheet (the natural translucent green stuff) with good results for structural reinforcement and it's cheap. It also bonds well to timber and is easily shaped and drilled. Just watch the dust - you need a mask.

[Joe Gwinn]

The headers are made to be soldered to on the short end, and if you're melting the plastic, you're using too much heat, too big a soldering iron tip, the wrong solder, or some such thing. I tin the wires to which I'm crimping the female header connectors before crimping and get much better connections. I do all soldering with Kester SN62 which has 2% silver.

If you are melting the plastic, the soldering is taking too long. This is where temperature-controlled irons with a large enough tip come in -- they raise the joint to soldering temperature in a fraction of a second.

[David Schwab]

I didn't realise crimping was involved... I've just been soldering wires onto the ends of the pins of the headers and sockets shown here. I'll need to look into that. Thanks guys for the tip.

To reinforce the guitar, I think I might get away with just a wooden strip, maybe half-inch or so wide. Seems to be room for that in the body cavities although I might have to move a jack socket.

No, you solder that part. But as everyone is saying, you are probably holding the iron on the header pin too long.

You crimp the female socket part, assuming it's attached to a wire.

[Mick Bailey]

I do all soldering with Kester SN62 which has 2% silver.

After decades of using 60/40 and 63/37, last year I started using 2% silver alloy for all general work and not just SMD rework. Makes a big difference to flow, wetting and joint appearance. It also flows much better at lower bit temperatures. I also noticed my bits last a lot longer than they used to.