Wiring Diagram tapped strat pickups

[copperheadroads]

I know it's the wrong place but ...
A guitar with 3 strat style single coils with all 3 pickups have a hotter tapped windings added & each pickup have 3 wires
1 Vol ,1 Tone ,5-way & a push pull on the volume to activate all 3 hotter taps .

[Rick Turner]

No way I know of unless you want to trip three small relays with a switch. You could do two out of three...but not all three. You'd need a three pole switch.

[big_teee]

a dual throw triple pole mini switch, along with a 5 way regular strat switch?
See below.
T
**edit
It can be done with a regular 5 way switch, and a 3 pole dual throw mini switch.
Wire the low side of the 3 pickups through the 5 way switch(normal strat wiring)
wire the 3 high outputs from the pickups to one side of the dual throw 3 pole mini switch.
wire the volume pot output to the center of the switch, all 3 center terminals tied together.
wire the other side of the mini switch all tied together to the 5 way switch.
So with the mini flipped one way you provide output from the volume pot, to the 5 way switch running the low side of the 3 pickups normally.
with the mini flipped the other way, you bypass the 5 way and provide output from the volume pot to all 3 pickups, high side in parallel.
It should work fine.
Use a mini like this.
http://www.parts-express.com/3pdt-mi...witch--060-520

[Rick Turner]

That could certainly do it.

[ScottA]

http://www.parts-express.com/3pdt-mi...witch--060-520

Don't put too much heat on those suckers. I've used them for a series/parallel switching, utilizing the third pole to kick in a resistor in parallel when the switch is engaged (i.e. the parallel mode wants to "see" something more like 250 k).

I melted one. They don't take as much heat as the push pots I've worked with.

[big_teee]

Don't put too much heat on those suckers. I've used them for a series/parallel switching, utilizing the third pole to kick in a resistor in parallel when the switch is engaged (i.e. the parallel mode wants to "see" something more like 250 k).

I melted one. They don't take as much heat as the push pots I've worked with.

Sounds like you need to get a soldering station, and quit using a Flame Thrower!

[copperheadroads]

I agree they cant take much heat ,I've soldered 2 of them on a pcb of a octave fuzz that I've built & one of the switches needs to be replaced ,it switches too easy now .....junk

[big_teee]

That brand or that type?
I've used tons of minis, with very little problems.
I broke one in half once with a pair of long nose pliers, but it was my fault.
I use the DPDT switches from Mojo a lot.
I use them on strat pickguards all the time.
T

[copperheadroads]

That brand or that type?
I've used tons of minis, with very little problems.
I broke one in half once with a pair of long nose pliers, but it was my fault.
I use the DPDT switches from Mojo a lot.
I use them on strat pickguards all the time.
T

That's probably the reason these are junk ...Tayda's
these are just way too cheap Mini Toggle Switch SPDT On-On
& actually the ones i used were spdt ..........

[ScottA]

Sounds like you need to get a soldering station, and quit using a Flame Thrower!

OK, next time I'll let you buy the crap.

[big_teee]

OK, next time I'll let you buy the crap.

I'm still confused, are you calling all mini switches Crap, or just the example of the one I showed?
I've never seen a push-pull volume Pot, with 3 sets of poles?

[ScottA]

I'm still confused, are you calling all mini switches Crap, or just the example of the one I showed?
I've never seen a push-pull with 3 sets of poles?

That specific switch from that same source. That's why I quoted your link.

I've wired hundreds of DPDT push pulls and push pushes, as well as a fair amount of DPDT toggles.

Using the same technique as I use for the push pots, I readily melted the plastic (or epoxy or whatever it was) around the post on the first one I tried and the post came right out.

I did get one successfully wired and it still works in the install I did, but I would not buy that switch again.

You're welcome.

[big_teee]

Ok, I get it.
I just showed that picture, cause that was the first switch I found on the web, with 3 sets of poles.
Not a lot of those around.
I was just thinking, I've wired scads of DPDT mini switches, without incident.
I was just trying to figure out how to wire his circuit, I didn't care what parts he used.
I wasn't buying his parts, that was nothing more than an example!

I'll go back to sleep now!
T

[David Schwab]

Don't put too much heat on those suckers. I've used them for a series/parallel switching, utilizing the third pole to kick in a resistor in parallel when the switch is engaged (i.e. the parallel mode wants to "see" something more like 250 k).

I melted one. They don't take as much heat as the push pots I've worked with.

I've melted them too. And I do use a temperature controlled soldering station.

[Mark Hammer]

1) A 3PDT toggle seems like a suitable solution. If you can find an on-off-on version of same, you can provide yourself some other options.

2) Toggles and stompswitches do vary in terms of their hardiness, and ability to withstand heat. Stompswitches also come with a bit of grease inside that can often liquefy during soldering and form an insulating coating on the contacts ( The inner life, and rehabilitation of, stompswitches - YouTube ).

Equally critical, though, many of us may get our switches from suppliers that might stock older inventory, or that have relatively fresh inventory but lousy climate-control. Or maybe we're the ones who buy new switches and keep them awhile, or keep them in lousy circumstances. Whether the source, a little bit of tarnish/corrosion on a switch lug can require application of seemingly normal soldering temperatures for a longer period, and it's THAT which results in melting switches. If you can get in and out fast (which commercial manufacturers seem to be able to do), then one has fewer problems.

I keep asking myself, if I was a switch manufacturer, and made products with this level of failure rate, how long would I be in business? And the answer is: not long. So, for folks like us who do not have an assembly line and industrial robots, and go through thousands of switches a day, what's different that would result in the failure/melting rate that we seem to report conspicuously often? And to my mind, it's the tarnish issue.

What can one do about it? Well, I suppose for starters, buy your switches from a supplier who deals in enough volume to sell toggles with gleaming clean lugs. Keep your toggles in a sealed bag until time for use. If you do experience any tarnishing/corrosion between time of purchase and time of use, scrape the contacts with an X-acto blade or similar. Put a dab of flux on the lugs, make sure your connecting wires are tinned, use any heat-sinking you can fit in there, and do whatever else you can to get in and out fast, and leave behind a decent solder joint. And remember that it's not just the heat you apply at the time you apply it. The body of the switch gathers, and hangs onto, heat, and each time you touch the tip of the iron to a lug, you're adding onto that cumulative heat. So, providing some means to dissipate the total heat, r simply waiting a bit until the next joint is soldered, can help avoid any switch-melting.