Rules

[salvarsan]

Rules for designing on-board guitar electronics

RULE #0 -- It must fit in a Telecaster controls route.
RULE #1 -- Promise electric guitarist godhood.
RULE #2 -- ???
RULE #3 -- PROFIT!!

[charrich56]

Rule #0 addendum - It, and a 9V battery, must fit in a Tele control cavity.

[salvarsan]

A thought:

It needn't be a 9V box battery, although they are inexpensive (usually) and ubiquitous.
Those range between 300-500 maH capacity and could be matched by 3 lithium button cells.

Size matters.
CR2354 is about right, often sold in packs of 10 for $16.

Size 2354 = 23 mm diameter, 5.4 mm thick, usually good for 500 maH.
23 mm is just under the 1 inch width in a Tele control cavity.
A stack of three is 5/8" high.

The Gotoh 9V battery boxes are about 24 mm thick, just under the Tele constraints.

[big_teee]

The tele constraint IMO is too small.
By the time you install the 5 way switch, and wire up 3 blade buckers with push-pulls?
It is crammed full!
Not even room for the watch battery!
T

[rjb]

How many knobs on that Tele?

-rb

[Mick Bailey]

I get my preamp plus regular 9v battery and bypass switch in a Tele control cavity. That's with CTS pots, too. The cavity requires a very superficial route low down in the cavity to square-up the end to accommodate the battery snap connector. I refinish the area to match the rest of the cavity and it isn't noticeable at all. My preamp fits down the side of the switch. I've installed plenty of these and the battery in my prototype guitar is now over 4-years old and still providing excellent results, despite being left plugged in (therefore on) for days on end.

The difference in tonality/output/clarity is remarkable. Also, conversely, when the preamp is engaged the noise level drops.

Good profit margin and highly satisfied customers.

[charrich56]

I get my preamp plus regular 9v battery and bypass switch in a Tele control cavity. That's with CTS pots, too. The cavity requires a very superficial route low down in the cavity to square-up the end to accommodate the battery snap connector. I refinish the area to match the rest of the cavity and it isn't noticeable at all. My preamp fits down the side of the switch. I've installed plenty of these and the battery in my prototype guitar is now over 4-years old and still providing excellent results, despite being left plugged in (therefore on) for days on end.

The difference in tonality/output/clarity is remarkable. Also, conversely, when the preamp is engaged the noise level drops.

Good profit margin and highly satisfied customers.

Mick, I'd like to see what you are using for that preamp, if it isn't your proprietary thing. You must be in the 250 -400 uA range on drain and getting 400+ hours on the battery, sounds like.

I really don't like the idea of having to rout a body for a battery box if I don't have to. Salvarsan, didn't realize that the lithium button cells had that amount of maH capacity. Good idea.

[salvarsan]

... didn't realize that the lithium button cells had that amount of maH capacity.

It may not be all that good cuz I didn't read the 'coin' cell fine print over at batteries.com.

Although the total energy may be 250-500 maH, each cell type has a nominal discharge rate in the 100s of microamps.

Needs more research, see Rule #2.

-drh

[Mick Bailey]

Mick, I'd like to see what you are using for that preamp, if it isn't your proprietary thing.

I'm pretty free with sharing ideas and designs, but it took me so long to develop that I want to keep as a proprietary design until I've earned a decent amount out of it. I've also had interest from a guitar manufacturer and there's a possibility of me selling or licensing the design, so I don't want to prejudice the chances of that happening.

[charrich56]

Mick,

Totally understandable.

Gents, using Mick's apparent early success with his design as an example, a suggestion for Rule #2 comes to mind:

RULE #2. Figure out a way to actually make money with the bloody thing.