1022 rod...

[Ampclutz]

BTW,

Montreux says he is selling 1022 slugs on his site...

http://www.digifield.jp/montreux/pu_price_list.html

That may just be TOO easy. LOL

[David King]

Possom, one reliable way for annealing is to take your metals to Stack Metallurgical Services on Swan island.
http://www.stackmet.com

[black_labb]

in all reality, someone who does annealing would most likely throw some slugs in with something else that is being annealed for a very low price (or for a 6 pack or something like that), as they would take very little room in the oven.

[Possum]

........

A tiny kiln can be had for pretty cheap and I see some really cheap kiln controllers on Ebay as well like fifty bucks. I don't think its necessery to keep tiny parts at high temperature for very long, those annealing times are more based on big chunks of steel I bet, so this can be done pretty cheaply in a home shop.

[Possum]

another thought.....

Well, what effect does annealing the steel parts have on tone? If it makes the material more magnetically permeable how is that going to sound different? Less spikey, smoother, brighter, darker, what? Anyone have any experience there?

[black_labb]

id say so, might make experementing easier. if you have room and the expendable funds its not a bad idea.

[Joe Gwinn]

A tiny kiln can be had for pretty cheap and I see some really cheap kiln controllers on Ebay as well like fifty bucks. I don't think its necessery to keep tiny parts at high temperature for very long, those annealing times are more based on big chunks of steel I bet, so this can be done pretty cheaply in a home shop.

A small kiln would work well. If annealing small parts, enclose them in an airtight covering of some kind, with some paper inside with the workpieces. I've already mentioned the capped iron pipe approach. Also there is the stainless steel foil used to wrap things that are being heat treated.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=56484991

The explanation in MSC's paper catalog is better.

[David King]

If you start putting small bits of steel in an iron pipe with a plug on each end, that might look suspicious, don't be leaving these around town absentmindedly. -Or just wear gloves.

[R.G.]

A tiny kiln can be had for pretty cheap and I see some really cheap kiln controllers on Ebay as well like fifty bucks. I don't think its necessery to keep tiny parts at high temperature for very long, those annealing times are more based on big chunks of steel I bet, so this can be done pretty cheaply in a home shop.

So is the problem my typing, my shifty use of gerunds, or did I make the math too hard?

Those times are based on the time to get the iron and carbon atoms to move to the right places so they form Austentite, the high-temp solution of carbon in iron. The carbon atoms have to actually move from their positions in iron crystals at room temp.

Quoting from "Hardening, Tempering, and Heat Treatment", page 28:

Once up to temperature you must hold the heat for some time. Again - how long? You have t both make sure that the metal is hot right to the centre, [sic - the author was a Brit] AND give those atoms some time to drive to their new spot [in the crystal structure]. Fortunately in this case the answer is quite definite; metallurgists and generations of blacksmiths over a century or more have established the rule: heat for ONE HOUR PER INCH OF THICKNESS once the tool us up to temperature. This means that a 3/8 thick tool should be heated for 20 minutes.

Based on that, I'd go for 6 minutes soak after temp is made for a 0.100" thick piece. How about that - one hour per inch takes the tiny pieces into account, too!

Those annealing times are based on time to let the carbon atoms migrate into the right positions inside the iron crystal structure. Yes, thin, small parts need less time because it takes less time to get the center of the thing hot through and have some time for the carbon to migrate to the right place so when you cool it, it forms the right stuff. The quote refers to ordinary carbon steels, as fancy alloys need different treatments. 1022 is ordinary carbon steel.

And yes, as I pointed out, it can be done pretty cheaply in a home shop.

But as black_labb points out, if you can find anyone who runs regular annealing operations, getting them to put a fistful of slugs into the oven next time is a great idea for a one-off experiment. The stainless-steel metal foil is a good idea too. McMaster Carr is good, but Enco is probably cheaper: www.use-enco.com.

[David Schwab]

So is the problem my typing, my shifty use of gerunds, or did I make the math too hard?

Where you "gerunding"?

[David Schwab]

If you start putting small bits of steel in an iron pipe with a plug on each end...

Shrapnel?

[R.G.]

Where you "gerunding"?

As I learned from Mrs. Ford, my 157 year old high school English teacher, a gerund is any part of the English language that is undefined, unknown, and unknowable, and cannot be used in any sentence correctly. Only incorrect gerunds have ever been discovered.

[NightWinder]

Well, what effect does annealing the steel parts have on tone? If it makes the material more magnetically permeable how is that going to sound different? Less spikey, smoother, brighter, darker, what? Anyone have any experience there?

Annealing 1022 adds a bit more bass, and levels out the Mids, and gets a nice sizzle on the topend- Its nice with A5 mags, Pe and a resistance at about 15k . ALso takes away from the honky highs ; )

[David Schwab]

As I learned from Mrs. Ford, my 157 year old high school English teacher, a gerund is any part of the English language that is undefined, unknown, and unknowable, and cannot be used in any sentence correctly. Only incorrect gerunds have ever been discovered.

I always thought a gerund as:

gerund |ˈjerənd|
noun Grammar
a form that is derived from a verb but that functions as a noun, in English ending in -ing, e.g., asking in do you mind my asking you?.
ORIGIN early 16th cent.: from late Latin gerundium, from gerundum, variant of gerendum, the gerund of Latin gerere ‘do.’

So, "gerunding" would be what you do when you use a gerund?

[David Schwab]

Annealing 1022 adds a bit more bass, and levels out the Mids, and gets a nice sizzle on the topend- Its nice with A5 mags, Pe and a resistance at about 15k . ALso takes away from the honky highs ; )

This is getting very interesting... more things for me to try that I have no time for... lol