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can some one pl explain non destructive method to remove the pickup inside of the gibson cover? the black plastic cover has the raised gibson letting logo. is the pickup glued into this gibson cover? i need the pickup removed from the cover in order to mount it into my guitar without using the gibson cover.
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Is it a strat shape pickup? If I remember correctly it's an alnico bar magnet inserted in a bobbin and the cover hold the magnet in place. -
It's going to be tricky. I did this years ago and it wasn't pretty. The coilform is a softer plastic that sort of bends to conform to the inner dimensions of the cover, meaning that it is VERY snug in there. If you had a much more powerful magnet, you could simply slide/pull the bar magnet out, and give yourself some "wiggle-room" to get in and pry the coilform out.Comment
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I just rewound a couple of those...
If you try to remove the cover you'll probably be sorry. There is an upper and lower cover, and the cover not only holds everything together, the tabs on the ends are the height adjusters like on a Strat. Without the cover, all you got is a really crappy coil bobbin and a bar magnet that won't stay where it should.
KenComment
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the reason why a raw bobbin is required is because the neck humbucking cavity will only accept this raw dimensions in order to focus aperture onto 24th fret of string. this intent was successfully accomplished already, only that that melodymaker raw bobbin is 6k dc resistance. the gibson bobbin is a fatter 7.8k
i don't want to screw it up. i utilize a unique bobbin support made from round maple dowels to accurately anchor bobbin into orientation position. it just takes patience and all the breakover angles can be perfect to target the virtual 24th fret of the string, perpindicularly, by the bobbin face.
to remove bobbin, there are three ills that risk damage. impact, mechanical pressure and thermal heat. i was considering naptha to possibly melt the potting wax, if any, but reconsidered what it could do to the varnish insulation and/or bobbin plastic. if i lowered the temperature, then allowed it to thaw to room temperature, it might loosen the cover. but the condensation might initiate oxidation of the metals.
last resort would be to carefully scribe cautiously and progressively scribe deeper and deeper scratches into cover using some kind of depth limiting scriber tool. at some point the black plastic cover could be pryed apart into two halves along the axis of least exposure vulnerability.Comment
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I wasn't suggesting that you were going to screw anything up, I just couldn't figure out why given the hassles I had rewinding the ones I did anyone would want to take them apart.
Anyhoo, Gibson as far as I know never potted any of these pickups, so some prior owner could have potted this. You could try an infrared heat lamp pointed at the cover, if you monitor things closely you may be able to soften the 'pot'
enough to weaken its grip and get it apart. Or, your scriber idea may work too
if you split the cover exactly lengthwise, because you will do the least actual damage to the coil that way.
What kind of potting compound is it - is it hard like an epoxy would be, or soft like a paraffin wax?
KenComment
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no, there is no epoxy, for certain. there is a blue fine pore foam cushion insert that easily removes from underneath. this exposes the raw bobbin and the alnico bar coring. i would hate to overheatit using infra red lamp heat and compromise the inductor integrity.
the jewelry cleaning folks use an ultrasonic tank and a special solution. mabe the correct solution & ultrasonic bath agitation would capillary infiltrate tight tolerances and free the raw bobbin from the gibson cover.Comment
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You are much better off just cutting the cover loose if you don't want it,
possibly some chemical in your ultrasonic cleaner may react with plastic or the wire insulation, not to mention all the hassle of trying to dry the coil once it's apart.
KenComment
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i got the best solution, i think.
there's a process called lapidary.
they use it on stones, gems and metal specimens.
it is a very controlled abrasion process using fine abrasives.
the specimen is held either by a jig tool or by hand and pressure is applied.
the abrasive flat surface, motorized relative motion, or manual motion, imparts slow material removal. it's important to have a true flat abrasion surface.
so if i remove material from the topside plane, i will eventually uncover the top plane of the bobbin. i don't know how close the bobbin is mated to the underside of the cover. i suspect there is clearance so that grace will afford me some part through protection risk.Comment
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success 7.84 kilo ohms dc resistance and really pleasing
last status was planning to extract bobbin from gibson cover.
i used lapidary technique to hone down the gibson logo until the virgin bobbin became exposed. still bobbin refused to release from within black cover envelope. so, each end, where screw adjustments reside, was lapidary technique honed to expose virgin bobbin. still half shells of black envelope refused to release virgin bobbin. so, i purchase the yellow anti-viscous clear yellow liquid bottle called gum remover from walmart. i used an eye dropper to drop one drop on the interference interface between bobbin and black envelope. it released!!
i then placed the raw bobbin next to the fan for a couple hours. apparently the gum remover leaves no residual anything.
next question, is there an assigned magnetic polarity for the neck & bridge pickup magnet poles orientation with respect to each other? what i mean is, should they attract or repel to each other if we imagine the guitar strings act as a iron bridge between them? i know i can align solenoid winding polarity when two both coils are engaged parallel (in phase). but i don't know about magnetic phase when both melodymaker and p90 are both paralleled. pl assist.Comment
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