So do I need to finish it out with 43 or go with 44 wire?
What do you think?
T
Well, you can get up to about 9000 or so turns on a SC bobbin, depending on how much you scatter, maybe more. How high are you trying to go in terms of DCR?
Well, you can get up to about 9000 or so turns on a SC bobbin, depending on how much you scatter, maybe more. How high are you trying to go in terms of DCR?
With my small 42 SPN, I should be 9k plus turns.
I have decided to use 44 for the outer layer, I can get more turns on remaining space.
That should give a vintage hot Inner coil, and an overdriven outer layer.
I probably should have stopped around 6.5k ohms, with 42, then that would give more room for the 44 ga. coil.
T
** to solve the problem with the outer coil hanging in the circuit, I'll use 4 eyelets.
one eyelet for the start lead, eyelet 3 for the inner coil finish, eyelet 2 for outter coil start.(This keeps bobbin wires from crossing)
eyelet 4 for outer coil finish.
1. Inner Start---Green
2. Outer Start---White Wire
3. Inner Finish--Red wire
4. Outer Finish--Black wire
Use Green Sart lead grounded, and Red for Vintage Hot 6.5k
Use Green Start lead grounded, black wire output, with white and red strapped together for 9.5k
Temporary set-back.
I wound the outer coil over the inner coil.
I have each coil wired to separate eyelets.
When I got done, I have a high resistant short between the two coils.
So Next step is to peel the outter coil.
I think I will strip the inner coil from 6.8k down to 6.3-6.5k.
Then before I apply the second coil, maybe use a layer of scotch magic tape.
2-2.5k of 44 was all I could get on it, and it's shorted to the other one.
I remeber now why I Don't F with Tapped coils???
They are a Royal PITA!
Chronicles & Obstacles of B_T.
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
With my small 42 SPN, I should be 9k plus turns.
I have decided to use 44 for the outer layer, I can get more turns on remaining space.
That should give a vintage hot Inner coil, and an overdriven outer layer.
I probably should have stopped around 6.5k ohms, with 42, then that would give more room for the 44 ga. coil.
T
** to solve the problem with the outer coil hanging in the circuit, I'll use 4 eyelets.
one eyelet for the start lead, eyelet 3 for the inner coil finish, eyelet 2 for outter coil start.(This keeps bobbin wires from crossing)
eyelet 4 for outer coil finish.
1. Inner Start---Green
2. Outer Start---White Wire
3. Inner Finish--Red wire
4. Outer Finish--Black wire
Use Green and Red for Vintage Hot 6.8k
Use Green and black with white and red strapped together for Overwound(DCR still to be Determined)
I know I'm going to get slaughtered on this one but, this is how I learn. . .
Is it not possible to have only 3 wires on the tapped pickup, which I guess you are talking about being "the outer coil hanging in the circuit"? Would it be a problem to have 1 ground where you start the wind on the very inside, 1 hot for the wind up to the tap and 1 hot for the complete wind? Wind say 7,000 turns and and terminate at the first hot eyelet. Start the second part of the wind from the first hot eyelet, add the 2,000 turns (or whatever) and terminate at the second hot eyelet. Then use say a push/pull pot to determine if the lead for the first 7,000 wind section of the coil goes to the 5 way switch as the bridge p/u or the full 9,000 wind lead goes to the 5 way switch as the bridge p/u. OK, learn me now. . .
Take Care,
Jim. . .
VA3DEF
____________________________________________________
In the immortal words of Dr. Johnny Fever, “When everyone is out to get you, paranoid is just good thinking.”
I know I'm going to get slaughtered on this one but, this is how I learn. . .
Is it not possible to have only 3 wires on the tapped pickup, which I guess you are talking about being "the outer coil hanging in the circuit"? Would it be a problem to have 1 ground where you start the wind on the very inside, 1 hot for the wind up to the tap and 1 hot for the complete wind? Wind say 7,000 turns and and terminate at the first hot eyelet. Start the second part of the wind from the first hot eyelet, add the 2,000 turns (or whatever) and terminate at the second hot eyelet. Then use say a push/pull pot to determine if the lead for the first 7,000 wind section of the coil goes to the 5 way switch as the bridge p/u or the full 9,000 wind lead goes to the 5 way switch as the bridge p/u. OK, learn me now. . .
I was thinking the exact same thing - which had me thinking that, either me or Tee is confused on how tapped p/u's work....heh
I was thinking the exact same thing - which had me thinking that, either me or Tee is confused on how tapped p/u's work....heh
-Rob
There is no doubt in my mind that I'm the one that doesn't understand. I'm hear to learn and hopefully come to that increased level of understanding of how this stuff works.
Take Care,
Jim. . .
VA3DEF
____________________________________________________
In the immortal words of Dr. Johnny Fever, “When everyone is out to get you, paranoid is just good thinking.”
If it were me - I would start normally and when I reach the target, take the bobbin off, and CAREFULLY - this is where it gets tricky - with a tiny drill bit (and a steady hand, also a shield of some sort like sheet metal) drill a hole for the lead riiiight up against the coil. This hole is for your tap lead for the "main wind".
Now, with a folded piece of 800grit strip 3/4" of insulation off where it lays over hole, and solder a short lead to it of a small gauge (I dont know, 28?) AS WELL AS your wire for the overwind. Run the lead through the hole so it's out of the way and solder it to its respective eyelet.
Re mount the bobbin and wind the next level and when you reach your target finish it like you usually do on normal SCs.
Everyone gets it.
It is basiclly a 3 wire affair.
but 4 eyelets are as easy as 3, and you don't have so many tiny wires in the same eyelet.
I plan on using a shielded 4 wire cable, so the 4 wires are already there.
Being this is a experiment, I can open up the 2 coils, to see if the unused tap is effecting the main coil.
by using the 4 wires i can switch them together or a part.
On a humbucker split, I noticed that the unused bobbin is still hot and if you tap on it, still get signal.
So also I want to try feeding the outside coil in reverse just to see what it does.
If I built the bottom again, I would just use a standard forbon, and put both starts on one side of the hole, and both finish leads on the other.
Now I see the draw of the stacked, Your already committed to two bobbins more or less, plus you can hum cancel.
Maybe I will try it next.
My experiment is working, You guys are getting curious, and getting involved!
T
**BTW I peeled off the 44 that was shorted.
I took some hard as nails and coated the start and finish of the main coil.
Maybe it will not short out this time.
After All, I had Rather be Lucky as Good!
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
Here is the finished product.
Picture one shows the pickup with 4 wire hookup.
I included a compass to show that the red north end of the compass is pointing toward the south end of the rod magnets. (South up)
Picture 2 shows that the cover is a tight but good fit.
I ended up with 6.65k on the 42SPN main coil and 2.85k on the 44SPN Secondary coil.
This makes a switchable 6.65k to 9.5k bridge pickup.
I will start testing the pickup probably tomorrow.
If you have a project to build and show pictures of, on the BC, Please do!
Your comments, or ideas of how to build this Pickup are welcome!
So far the project is a success, There are a couple of things I would do differently but so far so good!
** Edit
1. Inner Start---Green
2. Outer Start---White Wire
3. Inner Finish--Red wire
4. Outer Finish--Black wire
Use Green Sart lead grounded, and Red for Vintage Hot 6.65k
Use Green Start lead grounded, black wire output, with white and red strapped together for a overwound 9.5k
I know I'm going to get slaughtered on this one but, this is how I learn. . .
Is it not possible to have only 3 wires on the tapped pickup, which I guess you are talking about being "the outer coil hanging in the circuit"? Would it be a problem to have 1 ground where you start the wind on the very inside, 1 hot for the wind up to the tap and 1 hot for the complete wind? Wind say 7,000 turns and and terminate at the first hot eyelet. Start the second part of the wind from the first hot eyelet, add the 2,000 turns (or whatever) and terminate at the second hot eyelet. Then use say a push/pull pot to determine if the lead for the first 7,000 wind section of the coil goes to the 5 way switch as the bridge p/u or the full 9,000 wind lead goes to the 5 way switch as the bridge p/u. OK, learn me now. . .
You only need 3 eyelets for a tapped single coil
"UP here in the Canada we shoot things we don't understand"
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