Parts-Issues, Parts Needed, Parts in General

[ReWind]

I spent some time trying to track down a less expensive option than Mojo & WD a few months back, but came up short. I'm an AWC dealer, myself, and couldn't even get anything from them, existing or custom, at a better price, even though I was willing to buy 2000' of it.

I did find, however, that I prefer a fully shielded cable over a foil shield and drain. Less flexible, but better quality.

[ReWind]

Oh, I do have one REALLY easy source for four conductor + shield for anyone who doesn't need a great deal of it.

Look around your desk for a USB cable that's not in use. That's the stuff, right there!

Need 6 conductors, shielded in pairs with a master shield for a special project or run to a pickup selector switch? Firewire cable.

You can find Firewire cables FREE from big office's IT departments, throwing it away as Firewire 800 is even becoming obsolete in favor of faster external connections these days.

[big_teee]

Oh, I do have one REALLY easy source for four conductor + shield for anyone who doesn't need a great deal of it.

Look around your desk for a USB cable that's not in use. That's the stuff, right there!

Need 6 conductors, shielded in pairs with a master shield for a special project or run to a pickup selector switch? Firewire cable.

You can find Firewire cables FREE from big office's IT departments, throwing it away as Firewire 800 is even becoming obsolete in favor of faster external connections these days.

I have lots of Cat 5 & Cat 6 Cable left over from my Telecomm Job, but most of it is unshielded.
Unless I need 4 wire with shield I prefer the 2 wire with shield.
I try to stay clear of the push back gibson style cable with the exposed metal shield all together, unless needed for vintage work.
The 2 W/Shield is not cheap either, and is about the same price as the 4 W/Shld.
I try not to use the 4 wire, unless I really need it, because of the extra work.
I charge $5 extra for 4 wire, and that usually eliminates the need for it.
Hardly anyone around here uses the split humbucker mode.
If they do I usually end up wiring it for them so I build the humbucker accordingly.
T

[big_teee]

I just sent some emails to get prices from American Alloy wire for 42PE wire.
Here is the Price I got for 42PE, I also posted it in the main Forum.
The current 42 PE price is @ $24.87/lb Base and $3.78/lb Copper Surcharge. Total price of $28.65/lb.
It will not be available for a couple of weeks.
She will let me know right after they do the next run.
Teresa@americanalloy.net
Not bad prices for 42PE, this day and age.
I hope to have prices on 43pe, and who knows maybe 44pe too.
http://www.americanalloycorp.com/
T
**Edit Note
Wire prices can vary day to day, depending on the price of Copper!

[big_teee]

Anerican Wire has a 20 lb minimum order of 42PE.
I was also informed that they don't make any 44PE.
I don't know where you would get any PE in 44?
T

[big_teee]

What would be a good size bar magnet for universal Bass Pickup use.
It's been brought up several times the need for a wider bar magnet than 1/2 inch wide.
So Just bouncing some ideas around here.
So for a J bridge bar magnet, how about .200" thick x .750" wide x 2.750" long.
If we got the magnet made from C8, then it would be easier to score and break if you wanted a shorter piece.
Also C8 is cheaper to make, and Shea may not mind some C8s sitting in inventory?
A5, & A8 would be great too, but they cost more money, and are harder to modify.
For other pickup sizes the magnets could be scored & broken for shorter length pickups like Ps and Some Soapbar work.
What is your idea, on bass bar magnets?
T

[big_teee]

What would be a good size bar magnet for universal Bass Pickup use.
It's been brought up several times the need for a wider bar magnet than 1/2 inch wide.
So Just bouncing some ideas around here.
So for a J bridge bar magnet, how about .200" thick x .750" wide x 2.750" long.
If we got the magnet made from C8, then it would be easier to score and break if you wanted a shorter piece.
Also C8 is cheaper to make, and Shea may not mind some C8s sitting in inventory?
A5, & A8 would be great too, but they cost more money, and are harder to modify.
For other pickup sizes the magnets could be scored & broken for shorter length pickups like Ps and Some Soapbar work.
What is your idea, on bass bar magnets?
T

There may not be any interest in this?
I think instead of a .750 wide bar a .725" would work out better on the pickups I would make.
Do you ever need a wider bar, or if turned on it's side and used as a blade, then it would be a taller magnet bar?

[Will_White]

Here is the Reply from David Shepherd at mojo, in response to the keeper thickness.
Item in question.
http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts...ar-49-2mm-1-94

Hi Terry,

Sorry for the delay. I spoke to my supplier about the vintage keeper. It was specked after an original '57 keeper although we know here from doing rewinds on these old PAF's that no 2 were alike with magnet thickness, keeper, baseplate, etc. Gibson used more than one source for pickup parts back then which explains some of the variances and confusion out there (everyone is right but they all have conflicting information!). Anyhow back to the keeper issue.... The material is a 1018 mild steel that comes in limited gauges. According to my supplier the next gauge up is too thick and would require taking the thickness down which in turn would raise the cost 5-6 times what we pay now. I wish I could tell you that we can get them .125'' exact but unfortunately that would be very cost prohibitive for us. Let me know if I can help with anything else.


So much for paying extra for a vintage keeper that's not Vintage at all.
So buy at own risk, and YMMV.
I for one am not paying that for a metric keeper that is the wrong thickness.
T

This is false, I use .125" 1018 mild steel in my shop all the time, it's a common size.

[Will_White]

There may not be any interest in this?
I think instead of a .750 wide bar a .725" would work out better on the pickups I would make.
Do you ever need a wider bar, or if turned on it's side and used as a blade, then it would be a taller magnet bar?

I actually just sent an email to Shea about getting some .25 x .75 x X bar magnets for wide spacing 5 and 6 string bass pickups, we will see what he says. I didn't think about ceramic, I might have to send him another email...

[big_teee]

I actually just sent an email to Shea about getting some .25 x .75 x X bar magnets for wide spacing 5 and 6 string bass pickups, we will see what he says. I didn't think about ceramic, I might have to send him another email...

That sounds great.
Only thing the .25 is getting pretty thick for very many uses, such as Jazz bass pickups.
They will not go in the EMG bobbins that take a .200 inch magnet.
But you can wind directly around them.
Thanks,
T

[Will_White]

I plan on winding directly around them, like (I'm assuming) Seymour Duncan does with its quarter pounders except with a bar instead of the rods.

[big_teee]

I plan on winding directly around them, like (I'm assuming) Seymour Duncan does with its quarter pounders except with a bar instead of the rods.

That will work.
You mentioned Shea at MH?
Did you see the price list in the resources thread?
http://music-electronics-forum.com/a...price-list.pdf
T

[Will_White]

Yep I saw that, I'm planning on using the 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 x.75 magnets on the other side of the humbuckers.

[big_teee]

I got him to order the 5/16 & 3/8x3/4 Rods after christmas for the group.
It took until easter for him to finally get them.
They are great magnets and have good tone, for bass.
T

[Will_White]

I got him to order the 5/16 & 3/8x3/4 Rods after christmas for the group.
It took until easter for him to finally get them.
They are great magnets and have good tone, for bass.
T

What are your thoughts on using the 5/16 on a J pickup, 1 per string? /