It can be several different things.
Like you said wire guides too far, or too close.
Winding too fast, something along the edge of the bobbin barely grabbing the wire.
I always run some lite sandpaper around the edges of the forbon, or plastic bobbins alike.
A little extra care before you start, will usually pay dividends, at the end.
Others please jump in with your wisdom.
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
It can be several different things.
Like you said wire guides too far, or too close.
Winding too fast, something along the edge of the bobbin barely grabbing the wire.
I always run some lite sandpaper around the edges of the forbon, or plastic bobbins alike.
A little extra care before you start, will usually pay dividends, at the end.
Others please jump in with your wisdom.
T
I need to do that more often as well, sanding everything smooth before starting.
Whats the exact measurement for wire guides to the edge of the bobbin?
something along the edge of the bobbin barely grabbing the wire.
... this. Not just the edges, but also the eyelets (if pre-installed) and the pickup mounting holes at the ends of the bobbins. I've taken to using painters tape and taping these down to prevent snags.
If the eyelets are snagging, make sure you turn the eyelets to the outside.
On the pickup mounting screw holes in the forbon, sand or file anything sticking up on the inside.
I've had loose wire before, and it is always on the far side away from the winder on the edge.
Seems to be when I'm winding real fast in a hurry.
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
I like to countersink the eyelet head also, and then sand them flush.
I agree to make sure the inside eyelets are flush.
I use mojo flatwork, and it is already flat and smooth on the inside.
When I install my own eyelets I use a beveled center punch.
They make a tool just for seating eyelets, but a center punch from the tool drawer, works just as good.
If your putting new eyelets, in a thin .060" flatwork for a tele neck pickup, the eyelet will be too long and have to filed or ground down flat.
The only issues I have sometimes with mojo flatwork, on some you have a little bit of a rolled edge, on the long inside or outside edge.
I keep a rasp on the work table that will quickly take that edge off, so nothing hangs while winding.
T
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