Humbucker assembly using threaded plates. Need help.

[GunbarrelCustom]

I'm assembling paf style pickups for some carve top builds I'm doing and, unlike previous HB frames, these are threaded. What happens is I get a gap between the (non-threaded) keeper bar and the frame.

What am I doing wrong? The only way I could eliminate the gap was brute force and using the screw to cut its own threads. Do I have to run the screw from the bottom to tap the bobbin?

All help is appreciated! My hands thank you in advance.

[big_teee]

Try Putting the bobbins on with the brass base plate screws.
Now Run a 5-40 tap through the 6 bobbin and baseplate screw holes.
That should align the bobbin and baseplate threads.
Or, do what I've always done, and drill out the screw holes just a little, removing the threads.

[GunbarrelCustom]

Try Putting the bobbins on with the brass base plate screws.
Now Run a 5-40 tap through the 6 bobbin and baseplate screw holes.
That should align the bobbin and baseplate threads.
Or, do what I've always done, and drill out the screw holes just a little, removing the threads.

I like that last idea!

Is it any easier to use a tap than the screw? I guess if I were smart I'd get some Phillips or Allen headed screws to tap from the bottom. It is difficult to work quickly with a slot head.

Big thanks!

[big_teee]

I chuck a 5-40 tap in my small cordless drill.
I thread the bobbins that way.
Be careful not go to far with the tap, and strip the threads.
It works slick.
IMO a screw will not cut the threads to match like a Tap.
The screw will go through the bobbin then push against the baseplate till it threads.
It may or may not be the result you want.
I would buy a tap at the local hardware store and be done with it.
If you use a screw, go from the bottom.
Or drill out the threads.
GL,
T

[David Schwab]

I tape using one of these:



Then you don't have to worry about ruining the threads you just cut using a drill.

[big_teee]

The hand tap is fine, but if you're doing several the drill is much faster.
I've never stripped a thread, I just always throw out that caution.
Also most cordless drills have a high and low speed setting.
Start with the drill on a low variable speed setting till you get the hang of it.
I only use a tap in a drill on plastic, forbon and soft materials, with the clutch set on low.
I have a size 4, 5, and 6 tap, that I use a lot with the drill.
Real time savers, but use what you have.

[GunbarrelCustom]

I like the drill idea. I've had a DeWalt 14.4V cordless drill for about 20 years and it keeps coming back for more. It has a clutch which sure makes life easy. Usually I use a T handled ratchet screwdriver, but I would prefer the tools to do the work where I can as all the guitar building is stressing my upper body due to all the repetition from grain fill to wet sanding the finish.

Thanks so much for all the help! I'm doing ten humbuckers for a V, 3 LPs and a Platypus (52mm HBs, korina T body, trap inlays, 3 on a side headstock, S style knob layout and LP style 3 way on the upper bout & knobs).