Which is better single or heavy wire?

[CheopisIV]

I'd say get your guide bar closer to the bobbin... it looks pretty far away which gives all kinds of room for the wire to jump around.

[buddha0709]

I was going to use this grinder when I first started until I noticed that it goes from 0 to over 1000 rpms with no inbetween, so I thought it was a bit fast for my taste. With that said, you should be able to open it up and adjust the potentiometer that controls the speed. I did this on my harbor freight lathe. You should also be able to add a switch to reverse the motor for reverse winding or you can just drill 6 indentions in your faceplate to reverse mount a single coil so the mags can recess into your faceplate.
This grinder has been very handy though for polishing baseplates and adding a bevel to my rod mags.

Also, I tried the metal locking collars that everyone uses and found I like 2 plain old zip ties better, I can slide them back and forth and they don't scratch my guide bar if I overtighten the locking collar, and the zip ties hold to the bar just fine if you tighten them down all the way. They been on my guide bar for over a year with no problems.

42single will make just about anything. 42heavy can make about anything as well, but it excels with old fender style pickups.

[Sinster]

I was going to use this grinder when I first started until I noticed that it goes from 0 to over 1000 rpms with no inbetween, so I thought it was a bit fast for my taste. With that said, you should be able to open it up and adjust the potentiometer that controls the speed. I did this on my harbor freight lathe. You should also be able to add a switch to reverse the motor for reverse winding or you can just drill 6 indentions in your faceplate to reverse mount a single coil so the mags can recess into your faceplate.
This grinder has been very handy though for polishing baseplates and adding a bevel to my rod mags.

Also, I tried the metal locking collars that everyone uses and found I like 2 plain old zip ties better, I can slide them back and forth and they don't scratch my guide bar if I overtighten the locking collar, and the zip ties hold to the bar just fine if you tighten them down all the way. They been on my guide bar for over a year with no problems.

42single will make just about anything. 42heavy can make about anything as well, but it excels with old fender style pickups.

I can go in between 0-1000 RPM.

I notice in the picture that David posted they are going underneath the guide. I go on the top does that make a difference.

How far should the guide be from the bobbin on the faceplate?

[copperheadroads]

I wouldn't have your guide no farther than 5" to 6" from the center of the faceplate .

[Beef Coon]

I just noticed the hookup wire (looks very thick) coming out the bottom of the bobbin, between the bobbin and the faceplate. That could cause some issues - warble from the bobbin not being mounted true or the magnet wire snagging on it while you're winding, even if you tape it down.

I'd think about making a hole through the faceplate for it to go through and tape it on the back side of the faceplate.

The motors on one of my machines will not reverse directions so my solution was to mount 2 pieces of aluminum bar stock on my faceplate to make a channel for
1) hookup wire to go when the bottom of a bucker bobbin is mounted to the faceplate, and
2) rod magnets protruding from the top of Fender style bobbins to go when top of bobbin is mounted to faceplate etc.

*I'd also make an arrangement for the wire guide to be adjustable so you can make it closer and further away from the bobbin. Experimentation will lead to the right distance for you... and I'd trim the size of that faceplate unless you plan to wind some monster size bobbins.

[Sinster]

Trimmed the faceplate, and moved guide closer. The hook up wire I'm using is 24.. I have 26, but that's aluminum and don't want dissimilar metal corrosion.

[buddha0709]

you should leave the hookup wire on the topside, not the side touching the faceplate, unless you want to notch out a groove in the faceplate for that wire to sit...it's causing your bobbin to not sit flush on the faceplate, which will also certainly result in a odd shaped coil..

[Beef Coon]

you should leave the hookup wire on the topside, not the side touching the faceplate, unless you want to notch out a groove in the faceplate for that wire to sit...it's causing your bobbin to not sit flush on the faceplate, which will also certainly result in a odd shaped coil..

See my post above....

[Beef Coon]

Trimmed the faceplate, and moved guide closer. The hook up wire I'm using is 24.. I have 26, but that's aluminum and don't want dissimilar metal corrosion.

You should get some 28, like in the link below. That could also be why you've got a bit of a bulge @ that of your bobbin in the photo.

28 AWG Copper Hook Up Wire Black Lead Wire 100ft Length 600 Volt Stranded | eBay

[big_teee]

A simple solution is to turn the bobbin over.
If the machine is bottom going, You are currently making a clockwise CW bobbin.
Since most Humbucker bobbins are wound CCW?
Turning the bobbin over while winding will make a CCW bobbin, and will put the start wire on top while winding, instead of the bottom.
This SD diagram shows the major brand color codes and polarity.
Wiring Diagram
T

[rjb]

OK, I guess this is something known by everyone in the world but me....

In the SD diagram, it looks like the series link for Gibson humbuckers is Finish-to-Finish.
Is that right?

I ask because in U.S. Patent 2896491, Seth Lover's preferred implementation is specifically stated as Start-to-Start.

The electrical connection between the coils '15 and 15A
is best illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6 Where the outer ends
18 and 18A of the coils are extended for connection to
the previously described jack 4 on the body of the in
strument. The inner ends 19 of the coils are electrically
joined and the coils 15 and 15A are Wound around the
magnetic cores formed by the pole pieces 13 and 13A
as illustrated.

From a mechanical standpoint, that makes sense to me- the Starts are safely taped up, and the easily-repairable Finishes comprise the vulnerable "hook up to the outside world" leads.
So, what's the story?

[big_teee]

All the pickups on the SD diagram are more than likely used Start to start.
Each brand just uses different colors to do the same thing.
I'v used the Gibson color code, output + on the red(start), tie the white and green(finish) together and ground the black(start).
Gibson only uses the 4 wire on a few pickup models.
That is the beauty of 4 wire, you can use any polarity you want.
They still use the braided pushback wire on vintage models.
I now use the SD color code, because everyone can use the SD wiring diagrams.
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/
T

[buddha0709]

OK, I guess this something known by everyone in the world but me....

In the SD diagram, it looks like the series link for Gibson humbuckers is Finish-to-Finish.
Is that right?

I ask because in U.S. Patent 2896491, Seth Lover's preferred implementation is specifically stated as Start-to-Start.

The electrical connection between the coils '15 and 15A
is best illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6 Where the outer ends
18 and 18A of the coils are extended for connection to
the previously described jack 4 on the body of the in
strument. The inner ends 19 of the coils are electrically
joined and the coils 15 and 15A are Wound around the
magnetic cores formed by the pole pieces 13 and 13A
as illustrated.

From a mechanical standpoint, that makes sense to me- the Starts are safely taped up, and the easily-repairable Finishes comprise the vulnerable "hook up to the outside world" leads.
So, what's the story?

I've gone with the traditional way of using the starts as my ground and hot but I've wondered if what you are saying would make more sense.

[David Schwab]

I might cut it down, but that wind is the only time that happened. The rest of the time it just wound on the lip of the bobbin.

When that happens it mean your guides are set too wide, or you aren't putting enough tension on the wire. You have to keep the wire fairly taught without stretching it.

Set your guitars to just inside the bobbin flanges. Or show down the winder until you get more comfortable winding. It takes a little time. I broke LOTS of wire in the beginning.

[big_teee]

Set your guitars to just inside the bobbin flanges. Or show down the winder.

What are you drinking David S.?
I want some!