All I have is some steel, no copper coated steel baseplates.
Probably not what was on it.
They will probably sell it loose in the guitar shop.
I was planning on a rewind, put the steel base plate, and yellow and black clothe wire.
It appears to be South up, wound CCW/Top Going.
I usually wind my Tele sets, neck CW/S-U black & White, and Bridge CCW/N-U Yellow and Black.
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
as mentioned in the other thread I am about to rewind some fender bass VI pickups. they appear to be similar to jag pickups.
they are from a squire bass , however do look to be quite authentically created, using forbon and alnico magnets
anyway here are some pics of the pickup assembled and disassembled
also dimensions and other electrical parameters scanned from my notebook
Thanks for all the info.
It all being in metric, it doesn't mean much to a lot of us.
I was going to make a layout, but never did figure out what the core dimensions were?
If it is is a jaguar pickup, I guess that is close enough.
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
Picked up a Strat Single coil pickup today at a local guitar store to rewind.
The owner said he thought it was an old Di-marz pickup.
It has a bobbin, with allen screws, a Keeper bar on the bottom with dual ceramic magnets on the bottom.
The magnets are head to head like a P90 pickup.
N/keeper/N.
I searched the Di-marz site and saw nothing like it.
Does anyone know what the DCR was for this pickup.
It look aged like it could be 70s maybe?
Kind of has a Super distortion Single Coil look to it.
I may go back with 43SP.
Here are some pictures of it.
The Di-Marzi SDS pickup is way overwound with 42SPN.
Overwound to the point that it was falling off the bobbin.
Probably 11,000-11500 turns of wire on the bobbin.
That was probably its demise.
I've not had good life from pickups wound dangerously full.
Bobbin dimensions.
L=2.275"
W=.248"
H=.502"
Flange=.610"
I'm going to wind it with 10,000 turns of 42SP.
That should make it around 8k ohms dcr.
T
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
D advertises 8.68k. http://music-electronics-forum.com/a...uick_guide.pdf
10,000 turns will have to do.
If there is a lot of room left after 10k turns, I may put on some more.
I use to fill them up too much, I don't do that anymore.
T
Attached Files
"If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
Terry
Here's the Dimarzzi SDS-1.
I could only get about 9700 turns on it.
My wire that I used is a little large(but sounds great), .00272".
It measured about 7.3k in the cool shop.
So mine may be the MDS-2. (Medium Distortion Single, 2nd Generation)
I'll pot it tomorrow, and do some more Taping, glue the magnets, and call it good.
T
Jim. . .
VA3DEF
____________________________________________________
In the immortal words of Dr. Johnny Fever, “When everyone is out to get you, paranoid is just good thinking.”
Had a dead '67 Tele bridge in for a a rewind. Rust on both end pole pieces in the core area and on pole piece tops as well, but cleaned up nice. Double lacquered the bobbin to try and hold the the flared ends from getting any more so. Taped the core as well for a little more protection (T's flower wrapping tape). Wound it to 8.2kΩ with 42PE. Adjusted the width of the wind on the core every couple thousand turns to try and comfortably deal with the flaring on the ends and still have a reasonable looking coil shape at the end of the day. Only used about 16g. of dead draw tension to try and minimize the level of flaring the wind tension might generate. We'll have to see how things turned out with the rewind in another 48 years.
Customer looking to get to Nocaster output (from what I can find could be anywhere from upper 7kΩ region all the way to 10kΩ zone). Didn't really want to risk adding anymore wire because of the flaring potential. It looks overly "shiny" from the finished photo, but that's really the light angle.
When you hold it in your hand to look it over, it still has a nice looking vintage patina but without the rust.
The only important test will be the tonal characteristics once it's back in the Tele.
Take Care,
Jim. . .
VA3DEF
____________________________________________________
In the immortal words of Dr. Johnny Fever, “When everyone is out to get you, paranoid is just good thinking.”
Comment