Pickup Rewinds

[Stratz]

Will have a middle pickup off a '55 Strat coming to the shop this week from the local luthier. The customer wants the repair and rewind to change it to a RWRP middle so he can add a 5-way. I was thinking it was a terrible route to go if you have a '55,

I would wind it stock ('55 should be CCW north up) but charge it to south polarity (RP) and just reverse the leads. This way it will still be stock but noise cancelling and all that would be needed to return it to '55 specs is to reverse the polarity back to north up.

Just make certain that you insulate the pole pieces before you wind it so there will be no chance of shorts.
I use Kapton tape but plain old scotch tape will work in a pinch.

Good luck.

[big_teee]

You can wind them that way if you want to, and that is a viable option.
I used to do that, but found they pick up more noise if the output is on the start.
Especially if you touch the magnets. It makes the output closer to ground through induction.
I try to always put the output on the finish, making a true RWRP middle pickup.
I would try to sell him another authentic looking RWRP pickup, and put the original in a safe place.
T

[kayakerca]

Here's the specs off the '55 Strat Neck and Bridge pickups that go with the Middle I have for repair. I compared those to one I wound a couple years back for a customer looking for an earlish spec Strat pickup.



I should get to the physical dimensional stuff this week and a few photos.

[kayakerca]

It definitely looks its age, but I was surprised (rightly or wrongly) to find that it was taped. All three of them were.

[big_teee]

Nice looking 55 relic.
I tape pickups if they are real full, and it helps make them more durable.
I figure fender quit because they could save that cost.
The only other specs I need, is core length, height between flats, wind direction and polarity.
Wire diameter would be nice if you have time to measure it.
Thanks,
T

[kayakerca]

Pulled the '55 Strat Middle apart today. . .

- Wind direction = CW
- Magnetic Polarity = N up
- Magnet diameter = .187" average (ranged from .183" - .187" remembering corrosion factor), except for the 'b' = .193 [measured it a bunch of times (a bit weird)]
- 'E' to 'e' outside distance measurement 2.235" - 2.2375" (depending on where you measured [remember corrosion issue])
- Width of top flatwork = .611" (in middle between 'd' & 'g', .600" (at "E" and 'e')
- Length of top flatwork = 2.617"
- Bobbin height between flats = .435" - .439" (depending on where exactly you measured)
- Wire diameter including insulation = .0029" (8 sample locations), .0028" (2 sample locations). Formvar
- Magnet gauss readings (range 890 - 980 depending on specific magnet)



Still has lots of patina after the cleanup, but no rust. A couple coats of lacquer and a layer of tape before winding should see that it lasts for many years to come. I'll go light on the tension to minimize (as much as possible) the probability of having the reduced diameter rod magnets (from rust) letting the flatwork flair out.

[Stratz]

That larger B rod is cracks me up.
I would have guessed Alnico III for 1955.
You'll need to use lamp black wax mixture or it wont match the rest of the set.

I have a '55 coming as well. I'll post the specs when I get to it.

[big_teee]

I had a dead 68 pink paisley tele neck pickup come in.
Height between the flats, .500"
South Up/CCW
43PE, Coil lacquer potted.
A5 .187" Magnets, .692" long, 1450-1500 Gauss.
Bobbin Core Length 2.170"
Bobbin Top flange length 2.490"
Bobbin Top flange Width .497"
Old coil diameter, .485"
Bobbin magnet wire pile up is more in the center, and Bottom, much less at the top.
Cover is chrome over brass.
Crimp tab is broken on hookup wire side.

[big_teee]

Here's the repaired 68 Tele Neck pickup.
With the broken damaged crimp tabs, it was tricky to ground.
I ended up running a wire across the bottom to the far side.
It will leave here tomorrow afternoon.
T

[Stratz]

I dont know if the tabs were broken when it got to you but a good tip is to heat the tabs with your soldering iron on high. This will allow them to bend rather than snap off.

[big_teee]

Yes the main ground tab was gone, one on the other side fell off before I ever got it put on.
The cover was already off when I got the pickup, and had been man handled pretty good.
The brass seems to be much more brittle than the nickel covers I've worked on.
It was just make the best of a bad situation, you guys know the drill!
T
**If you are like me and never seen a up close and personal Pink Paisley?
Here's a demo of a 1968 P.P.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZgG7OOhEXg

[kayakerca]

Well, the rewind of the middle pickup from the '55 Strat has been reinstalled by the luthier for his customer. The luthier`s comment was "Perfect. Finished the work on the Strat today. I can't tell the pickup isn't original, it blends in perfectly. I tried finding a difference, but really couldn't describe one."

Put on HFV and went with a tpl that reflected what I saw on the tearing apart of the pickup and a guess of what type of tension might have been used to lay down that down back in the day. Although I'm a CNC winder, it would appear that some days you just get a little luckier than others with your production processes and guesses. All in all, I was very happy with how it all turned out. Now hopefully the luthier's customer hears it the same as the luthier and it will be playable for another 60 years!

[big_teee]

Hey Jim:
South/Up, CCW or CW?
T

[kayakerca]

Hey Jim:
South/Up, CCW or CW?
T

It was North/Up, CW (same as bridge and neck). The customer wanted to change from a 3 way switch to a 5 way with hum cancelling in 2 & 4 so I reversed the magnetic polarity and wind direction. Now South/Up, CCW on the middle pickup.

[kayakerca]

Any tips on rewind one of these mini's? A local luthier sent me the picture of a coil he damaged (blade side) while removing it from the guitar.