Cub 3 and some kind of sensor help!!!

[copperheadroads]

I got a cub 3 counter that i got comming from evilbay. I did have a proximity sensor commin as well but i got a email saying the could not find the item i won... So i got to start over in my search for a sensor what is the easiest type of sensor with acurate results alot of proximity sencers i seen on ebay are ac current and compared to a dc sensor im not sure how to hook it up alot of ac versons only have 2 wires as where dc versons have 3

[Moses]

I also have the cub3 counter, but I don't know what kind of sensor to use, or how to hook a sensore up. The cub3 can count up to 6000 rpm, and the motor I have can definitely go that fast. I'm building this winder on the uber-cheap. Is a reed switch reliable at that kind of speed? I want to spend as little as possible, but I also want to know exactly how many turns I've made. Of course I won't be working at the full 6000 rpm because that's just ridiculously fast. So basically what I'm asking is will a reed switch work, and can someone give me REALLY detailed instructions on hooking it up because I have absolutely no idea!!!

[copperheadroads]

i do have proximity switch comming. i got a sewing machine which i will scrap and get what i can motor & footpedal atleast i guess i will be looking for help when i get all the parts if i have any trouble with the proximity sensor i might order a magnetic reed switch i heard there easier to hook up

[chevalij]

i do have proximity switch comming. i got a sewing machine which i will scrap and get what i can motor & footpedal atleast i guess i will be looking for help when i get all the parts if i have any trouble with the proximity sensor i might order a magnetic reed switch i heard there easier to hook up

Easiest way is optical, but it does require a paddle or other way to trip the sensor. The whole "kit" is probably about $5 from newark or similar. Just noticed, your name. Man, I hope you don't go with "copperheadroads" as your pickup name!

Where are you in Canada?

[copperheadroads]

i noticed you had my nicname oh well ,that and your pickups being made in the great white north made me want a set for the next strat i build .i checked out your web site a hile back , looks like killer pickups
im from the ROCK botwood nf

[RedHouse]

I also have the cub3 counter, but I don't know what kind of sensor to use, or how to hook a sensore up. The cub3 can count up to 6000 rpm, and the motor I have can definitely go that fast. I'm building this winder on the uber-cheap. Is a reed switch reliable at that kind of speed? I want to spend as little as possible, but I also want to know exactly how many turns I've made. Of course I won't be working at the full 6000 rpm because that's just ridiculously fast. So basically what I'm asking is will a reed switch work, and can someone give me REALLY detailed instructions on hooking it up because I have absolutely no idea!!!

CUB3 and CUB4 can use this:

http://classicamplification.net/winder/OPTEK-CUB4.pdf

I can get those optical sensors at a local surplus place nearby for $2/ea, let me know if you need some.

Here is pictures of how I implemented mine:



and a link to my micro-blog on building my 2nd winder:

Pickup Winder

[copperheadroads]

thanks red i will have a try at the proximity sensor when i get first if i dont have any sucess i will come calling i checked out your winder great job photos makes alot of cents and that optic sensor looks real easy to rig up thanks man

[David Schwab]

My Schatten winder uses an optical setup exactly like that Brad. Only it uses a disk with a square hole cut in it.

I'm going to use a proximity sensor on my next winder. They are actually very easy to use. You just feed them some power from the counter, and they give off a pulse. You can use a small magnet or piece of metal to trip them.

I bought one off eBay, and ended up getting about 6 of them. It was one of those group auctions, and I guess no one else bid on them.

[RedHouse]

My Schatten winder uses an optical setup exactly like that Brad. Only it uses a disk with a square hole cut in it.

I'm going to use a proximity sensor on my next winder. They are actually very easy to use. You just feed them some power from the counter, and they give off a pulse. You can use a small magnet or piece of metal to trip them.

I bought one off eBay, and ended up getting about 6 of them. It was one of those group auctions, and I guess no one else bid on them.

The first one I did was a hall effect sensor, it got mis-triggered alot from the sewing machine motor which is mounted very close, that's when I went with the optic device and the wheel. I also didn't like superglue'ing a magnet to the spinning shaft assembly.

My current (next) build I may use an optic sensor that doesn't rely on a slotted wheel as an interruptor, someting like an OPB770 which looks to the side and can pick itself up off a refection. I had a machinist friend make me some decent flanges for the ends of my new winder's shafts and I'm rolling around the idea of painting the back side of the flanges flat-black with a small area left polished aluminum for the reflective bit.

[David Schwab]

I also didn't like superglue'ing a magnet to the spinning shaft assembly.

I would use epoxy, it wont be going nowhere! I'm not going to put it on the shaft, I'm going to put it on the platen that the bobbins attach to, probably in a recess.

These aren't exactly like Hall Effect sensors, so I don't think I have any bounce problems with the triggering.

[Joe Gwinn]

I would use epoxy, it won't be going nowhere! I'm not going to put it on the shaft, I'm going to put it on the platen that the bobbins attach to, probably in a recess.

Epoxy is rigid, and if the temperature coefficients of linear expansion of platen material and magnet material do not match quite closely, the magnet may well just pop off for no apparent reason. Aluminum and alnico do not match well enough to prevent this problem.

These aren't exactly like Hall Effect sensors, so I don't think I have any bounce problems with the triggering.

There are two things going on here:

Hall effect devices can pick up motor noise, so some kind of low-pass filtering is needed.

Reed switches are immune to motor noise, but the reed switches themselves bounce mechanically, causing multiple counts per switch closure. Again, low-pass filtering is needed.

And both kinds of switch suffer from the duty-cycle effect, where if the closure time is too small a fraction of a turn, the counter will miscount or fail to count above some speed.

[David Schwab]

Epoxy is rigid, and if the temperature coefficients of linear expansion of platen material and magnet material do not match quite closely, the magnet may well just pop off for no apparent reason. Aluminum and alnico do not match well enough to prevent this problem.

I'd likely be using a wooden platen and ceramic magnet. But there are flexible epoxies, like G-2 Epoxy, which is used for aircraft. That what I use for guitar making. CA glue is also rigid.

There are two things going on here:

Hall effect devices can pick up motor noise, so some kind of low-pass filtering is needed.

Reed switches are immune to motor noise, but the reed switches themselves bounce mechanically, causing multiple counts per switch closure. Again, low-pass filtering is needed.

And both kinds of switch suffer from the duty-cycle effect, where if the closure time is too small a fraction of a turn, the counter will miscount or fail to count above some speed.

I plan on using a Balluff inductive proximity sensor. It's similar, but not exactly like this part (they have different connectors)

Product Detail

I have six of them I got on eBay.

[RedHouse]

...I'm not going to put it on the shaft, I'm going to put it on the platen that the bobbins attach to, probably in a recess....

That's what I meant, the rear face of the bobbin flange. A recess might do the trick.

[JGundry]

I think it is important that you have the magnet further away from the axis of the shaft. You can't see the magnet in this photo but I got a tiny rare earth magnet from Radio Shack that I epoxied in one of the holes you see on the chuck of my Leesona 102. In the lower left corner you can see the hall sensor. There is a capacitor on it as well. This setup goes to a cub 3 or 4 counter. It is the Cub version that has a relay to trip the solenoid for the clutch brake on this machine. The bass player in my band was a electrical engineer for Amway and drew it all up for me. It works flawlessly.

[copperheadroads]

dam that counter is small
can some give me some pointers how to hook this up
here's a picture of my counter and inductive proximity sensor ,its the cub 3 & a bernstein 3 wire 10- 30v- 200ma i think is direct current, I'm just wondering how to hook it up i do have several dc 12v chargers to use as a power source if i need one .
I'm not schooled in reading schematics
i was playing around trying to hook it up with no luck ,