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  • H22B1 sensor question

    Well I burnt out a couple of slot sensors but I think I am getting the hang of it but do have a couple of questions.
    Firstly for now I am using a 1.5V battery for the anode/cathode side and an A7805 off a 9V for the Emitter/collector side, all fastened to a bread board.
    I split the v source so that I wouldn't over load the switch.
    I have a wallwart rated at 12v that I am using to power the Veeder Root counter I have but would like to consolidate the power sources.
    That's where my 1st question comes. Whats the best way here?
    For the next question: which value is my max input voltage 6v or 1.7, I found the diode side was warm using the 1.5 batt.
    And which is my max Emitter/Collector voltage?
    Lastly, the datasheet shows turnon & turnoff times I assume this is where I can tweak the pulse values?

    Link to datasheet:H22B1

    Thanks
    Bill

  • #2
    Update,

    I did a test run using a CD disk to trigger the switch and the system worked!!
    What I noticed though is that the trigger was pulsing on every 2 rotations even at very slow speed, not sure why yet, now what I did was add another clearing 180º from the first one and it does seem to work so far, need to revisit it though.
    If anyone has any ideas pipe in. The distance of the clearings is about 3/4".

    Bill

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    • #3
      Hello guys,

      Here is my winder for you to check out.
      Any thoughts please chime in.

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      • #4
        Bill, check your PM's

        BTW the clear area on your disc IMHO needs to be like more like 25% or 30% of the total diameter of that disc to get decent results, otherwise pulse-width can become an issue for the counter module.

        Also, trusting your bobbin flange to super glue might get you into trouble, I'd suggest you drill and tap it for some 4-40 screws like this:
        Attached Files
        Last edited by RedHouse; 07-08-2010, 06:37 PM.
        -Brad

        ClassicAmplification.com

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        • #5
          Hi Bill,
          You need to limit the current to the the LED with a resistor to operate below the 50mA maximum, which is why you burned out a couple.
          Take a look here for R1, saves typing:

          http://classicamplification.net/wind...OPTEK-CUB4.pdf

          The absolute maximum collector/emitter voltage is Vceo = 30V. (Ignore the 6V Veco, it refers to a reverse voltage.)

          The turn on and turn off times would be a consideration in say designing a circuit for maximum speed or minimum current etc. Note they are measured in microseconds and need not concern you here.

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