Need help wiring my new optical sensor

[David King]

The vertical zig-zag lines with numbers next to them, on Brad's excellent diagram, represent the resistors.

[RedHouse]

Three wires is what I see.
The rectangle is the sensor package.
The dot above the + on the diode is the Brown wire. Solder a 550 ohm resistor on this wire.
The dot above the collector is the Red wire. Solder a 22K resistor on this wire.
Solder another red wire at the dot end of the resistor. This is the counter pulse. Connect it to Counter Terminal #6.
Connect (solder) the two unterminated ends of the resistors together.
This junction goes to Counter Terminal #4. The power Terminal.
The dot at the - end of the diode & the dot at the emitter are internally connected together.
This is the black wire. Common (ground). Connect it to Counter Terminal #5.

Yeah, what he said, do that John.

[Jazz P Bass]

APLT Counter

Quote:"
The low /high speed selection is switch #2 of the DIP switch block. You'll want a ball point pen or equivalent to push the switches around. It looks like you can select all the input parameters from the DIP switch so you can play with the other settings if you can't get the counter to respond to the sensor right away. You should keep S3 set to "High Bias" since your source is 12V not 5V.:"


You purchased a high end (lotsa function parameters to change.) counter.
Read the data sheet.
LInk: http://www.redlion.net/products/grou...docs/01001.pdf

Make sure that you set the dip switches.
Yours will be the one on the lower right .
Just add the resistors.

[John Carlsen]

Thanks so much for your help guys! I've learned so much from you all on this forum, but it's inspired me to want to learn more on my own as well. As far as this being a high-end counter, I suppose I didn't realize how high end it was, but it didn't make any sense to spen $35 on a cub 3 when this one was only $45. I'm assuming I got a good deal on it???? Anyways, thanks for all the explanations, it totally makes sense now! Even though my counter is so high end compared to my winder, I suppose that will be one less thing to buy when I build a new and better winder!

[RedHouse]

...You should keep S3 set to "High Bias" since your source is 12V not 5V...

The S3 is uncertain without experimentation with the unit in hand, S3 and S1 are meant to be used with each other when you are using the module stand-alone, not using an external sensor power schema like in my diagram.

...it didn't make any sense to spen $35 on a cub 3 when this one was only $45. I'm assuming I got a good deal on it???? ...

Yeah, good purchase John.

The CUB3 is a bare-minimum module, CUB4 is a little better and can tell you your winding RPM too. hey are both real old units though, there are much newer modules like the one you got that have more options.

For instance yours will count up or down which is handy when you overwind and need to unwind a few hundred turns.

[Joe Gwinn]

Running the LED from the CUB3 will quickly exhaust its battery. If the battery is replaceable, OK. If not, one will have to replace the CUB3.

[John Carlsen]

Good thing I didnt go with the cub3 then! Also, I didnt think you could power the sensor from the cub3. I dont recall seeing a voltage out.

[RedHouse]

Running the LED from the CUB3 will quickly exhaust its battery. If the battery is replaceable, OK. If not, one will have to replace the CUB3.

So true, and many of the CUB3's on ebay are on the verge of being dead (battery that is).

The first CUB3 I got was like that, worked fine for a while then ppphhhttt, went out. In experimenting, I found that you could cut a rectangular hole in the back about the same size as the flat area, and have full access to the battery. You can get a direct replacement at Jameco, but I decided to wire this one into the regulated power supply I had built for the winder and forget about batteries all together. The only weirdness is that when you power-up the unit you have to hit the front panel reset button.
(apparently doesn't have a power-on reset capability)

The only reason I mention this is because you may run across a CUB3 that doesn't work (no visible digits on the screen) and get it for free, then you can do some minor surgery and get a decent counter going for nothing but some time invested.

[Jazz P Bass]

Uhmm..
Here is the Cub3 datsheet.
Battery removal.
Am I missing something here or are there different Cub3's ?

[Joe Gwinn]

Uhmm..
Here is the Cub3 datsheet.
Battery removal.
Am I missing something here or are there different Cub3's ?

There is a version with a built-in Lithium battery that is not intended to be replaceable. Those type N cells will run down, but should last long enough to finish winding a few pickups. You will need a switch to prevent the LED from running the battery down all the time, even while not in use.

It may be easier to score a DC-output wall wart from some abandoned bit of electronic gadgetry and use it to power the interrupter.

[RedHouse]

There is a version with a built-in Lithium battery that is not intended to be replaceable...

Yes, and this is the one you most often see for free

The one I did the surgery on had a battery like this inside: http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...10001_33371_-1

[John Carlsen]

Ok, now I'm upset

Ugh, I have to wait even longer to get this all hooked up. I bought that Red Lion APLT and waited a week and a half for them to ship it, then got an e-mail that they didn't have it after all! Bah, but I found another one, no harm no foul, just a seller with another black spot on their history...

Anyways, thanks for all the help guys~