Someone on the other board had posted their digital counter and pics, also a lot of others chimed in on their creations, including using a bicycle speedometer. I really need some help figuring this out. Anyone and everyone if you have a counter idea I'd love to hear it.
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Electronic counters help.
Collapse
X
-
here's the one I use
http://www.redlion.net/Products/Digi...Rate/CUB5.html
I hooked it up to a prox switch.
http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com...,873047,873048
So far it works great, However the prox switch was $60 and the counter was $120. Kind of expensive but it will count down to zero rpm and the display will show red or green.
Comment
-
I can see the logic, the 'A new winder' thread in this forum has some pertinent info.
This link may be useful:
http://www.hengstler.com/en/products...php?catID=1004
Some of these counters double as timers and tachos with a maximum input pulse frquency of 40kHz (lots of r.p.m!). As I have said, they have outputs that could switch off the motor after a preset count.
The last one I bought on ebay was a b.n.i.b. IVO NE214 which has an analogue output to stretch the imagination - for the princely sum of 99p + postage.
Rob.
Comment
-
If you enjoy assembling electronic kits then I can recommend the k129 from
http://www.ozitronics.com/ .
I used it along with a similar kit which functions as a tachometer. For some strange reason you have to ask Frank for the tacho kit. It isn’t listed but he does sell it.
I chose to go with a photo interrupter on my winder so I asked Frank at to reduce the debounce delay time when programming the micro processors.
Comment
-
On Friday I bought a Red Lion CUB3 counter ($25 locally at an industrial supply house), a couple of type N batteries for the CUB3 from local hardware store ($3), a couple of reed switches from Carlton Bates (a chain industrial electrical supply company) part number Hamlin MDSR7 ($1 each), and mini rare earth magnets from Radio Shack part number 64-1895 ($1.89).
I left my previously installed loud, rattle-ly, vibrating mechanical counter in place, and ran this counter in conjunction w/ the new electronic unit to calibrate the electronic unit to close to absolute accuracy and/or precision.
I don't know if I really needed to, but I used alligator clips as heat sinks while soldiering the tiny little reed switch into place. I did not know if heat affected it. Also, I'm glad I bought two switches because I broke the first one trying to mount it. They are INCREDIBLY fragile. It is a piece of glass about as big around as a grain of rice, and about 1/2 inch long.
I epoxied the magnet (actually two magnets stacked, they come in packs of two) to the drive shaft. Even though they would stay in place at 1500 rpm using only their magnetic properties, I epoxied them to make sure they did not become projectiles.
I have found it is dead on precise up to ~1200 to 1400 rpm, but stops counting completely at higher speeds (my counter will go up to about 1800-2000 rpm). I think has to do with the release speed of the reed switch, because the cub is supposed to be accurate up to 6000rpm. So I am in the process of installing an adjustable upper limit stop on my sewing maching speed control footswitch.
I also found that if the magnet is too close to the reed switch it will double up counts, and if too far away will generally not count at all.
Jason Lollar, If you are reading this, If you ever re-release/update your book you HAVE to include this CUB3 counter mod.
Works like a CHAMP!Last edited by JohnnyAtomic; 07-03-2006, 03:27 PM.
Comment
-
If a reed switch is too slow you might want to try an optical switch like they have in the Schatten winders. You would have to make some kind of light tight housing for the mechanism though.Last edited by David Schwab; 07-04-2006, 05:01 PM.It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
http://coneyislandguitars.com
www.soundcloud.com/davidravenmoon
Comment
-
Originally posted by JohnnyAtomicTell me more about how you used/configured these switches.
Johnny
The 'slight mod' is just a resistor for the opto led and a matching one for the other led depending upon supply voltage - counters often have a sensor supply output.
Rob.
Comment
-
Originally posted by JohnnyAtomic View PostI also found that if the magnet is too close to the reed switch it will double up counts, and if too far away will generally not count at all.
-Stan
Comment
-
Stan,
On the calculator counter below, where would said debouncing resistor go? I have not installed this counter yet, but plan on using it with my winder.
-Erin
http://europa.spaceports.com/%7Efish...nter/count.htm
Comment
-
Hi Erin, I don't think you'll have as much trouble with bouncing on the calculator as you will trying to get it to keep up with the revolutions. But the "bouncing" circuit is just a small value capacitor, maybe .001 mfd between the hot and ground of the input.
Stan
Originally posted by lexluthier72 View PostStan,
On the calculator counter below, where would said debouncing resistor go? I have not installed this counter yet, but plan on using it with my winder.
-Erin
http://europa.spaceports.com/%7Efish...nter/count.htm
Comment
Comment