What Small Router for guitar and pickups routing?

[jason lollar]

this isnt the the best set up but its a standard in the woodworking industry- most shops I have worked in or been to have several PORTER CABLE Router Combo Kit, 1 3/4 HP, 11A, 2 Base - Routers - 2NDZ5|693LRPK - Grainger Industrial Supply

I wouldnt use anything smaller and you dont typically need anything bigger and its what I own even though I have used better. It has some advantages one piece plunge routers dont have.
No one mention a plunge router is basically a portable pin router- it has a rotating turret you can set several cutting depth stops at so you can make one template and have all your routing depths set on the turret so you can do all the routing at once over and over.

Its amazing I have found 9 out of 10 guitar makers have never heard of a ring bearing set up and only know about the top set flush bearing bit which is the most stupid set up to use- its limited in so many ways.

[copperheadroads]

No one mention a plunge router is basically a portable pin router- it has a rotating turret you can set several cutting depth stops at so you can make one template and have all your routing depths set on the turret so you can do all the routing at once over and over.

Its amazing I have found 9 out of 10 guitar makers have never heard of a ring bearing set up and only know about the top set flush bearing bit which is the most stupid set up to use- its limited in so many ways.

Please explain what a ring bearing set up is ?

[big_teee]

Please explain what a ring bearing set up is ?

I think maybe DK describes this as system 2 in Post #4.

[copperheadroads]

I think maybe DK describes this as system 2 in Post #4.

Mr King describes A ring guide system that attaches to the baseplate like these
1-3/16" Brass Template Guides - Lee Valley Tools ,,I've used them for years along with template bits .
I was thinking Jason was referring to something else

[David King]

That's exactly the link I was going to post so thanks copperhead. There are at least two different standards for these rings so you'll need to buy the rings that fit your router.
I make my own out of aluminum so I can get super close tolerances and all my templates are just .050" oversized instead of the usual 1/16" or 1/18".

[John_H]

Harbor Freight also sells a set.9 Piece Router Template Guide Set

I'm a pro woodworker. A finish carpenter. I don't even know how many different routers I own. I would have to go count them. I have four that are just for trimming plastic laminate. I've always liked Porter Cable. That's what my Dad, and Grandfather both used. I've put a lot of miles on Model 100's. They'll remain my favorite fixed base router. Powerful, well balanced, and easy to control. They have made the same model forever. I have two nice ones, and remnants of a few others I've also had very good luck with what's now known as the Dewalt DW610. It's another that's been around in the same form for nearly forever. They're a real workhorse, solid as a rock. They are the standard of the industry for production door machines. Manufactured to run all day long. Day after day. I've got a couple of these, and a few broken ones.

My feelings on the fixed base vs plunge router is that you need both. Plunge routers are for sure the best tool for doing a deep mortise where you need to make multiple cuts, but will never be as stable as a fixed base. On plunge routers the motor typically slides on rails that are attached to the base. When you lock the motor in place, it only clamps on to one rail. Even the best plunge routers have some movement. This can cause it to be "grabby", and more prone to tearouts. A good fixed base router is much more stable. I also find it awkward using a plunge base where it's not necessary. The handles are far out to the sides, and they're larger and heavier. I have 4, A small Skil that's dedicated to my truss rod jig, the one Jason linked to, and two Ryobi's.

Electronic speed control, soft start etc... The newer Ryobi I have has these features. It's nice to be able to slow those big bits down, plus not having to wrestle it when you turn the switch on, but I question the reliability.

Model 100

[Durrant Pickups]

Ive found Festool to be a great brand of router and tools in general Festool International - Tools for the toughest demands on the expensive side but i suppose you pay for quality

[copperheadroads]

I'm sorry I can't even muster using a router for making bobbins from forbon ,without it's primary use to shape guitar bodies & necks .
but pickups n guitars can go hand to hand.
Somehow I get suckered into doing jobs for customers like routering a humbucker slot in the neck position of a tele & IMO I charge peanuts for doing this . but if you know what you're doing & have the correct gear it only takes a few minutes to do stuff like this .....

[David Schwab]

I'm sorry I can't even muster using a router for making bobbins from forbon ,without it's primary use to shape guitar bodies & necks .
but pickups n guitars can go hand to hand.
Somehow I get suckered into doing jobs for customers like routering a humbucker slot in the neck position of a tele & IMO I charge peanuts for doing this . but if you know what you're doing & have the correct gear it only takes a few minutes to do stuff like this .....

You should have a fixed rate. Look on line and you see that the usual price for routing for a pickup is about $30. That's what I charge.

I have a bench top router table is is great for things like making pickguards and rounding over body edges. I haven't make any flatwork with it, but it would be fairly easy to do.

[copperheadroads]

You should have a fixed rate. Look online and you see that the usual price for routing for a pickup is about $30. That's what I charge.

I have a bench top router table is is great for things like making pickguards and rounding over body edges. I haven't make any flatwork with it, but it would be fairly easy to do.

I try not to do work on guitars ,But if have to ,I'm probably more qualified than anyone in this neck of the woods to customize guitars .
the last job I did that involved routering a slot (micawbar tele humbucker neck slot closer to the neck ) I charged similar to what you charged David ,
My problem is most of these kind of jobs are on import guitars (mostly squire or similar ) & all the routes & holes drilled for wiring are usually smaller than an US made guitar .it's never straightforward .
You can't even install an Oak grigsby switch in most of these cheapies without making the control cavity deeper

[Justwannano]

Terry I wound up putting this router in my table and leaving it there.
I didn't use the plunger.
This one Is the reason the other one stayed in the table.

One can handle routing a guitar with a few bits and the Colt handles the jobs just fine for me.
(for example)
A couple of bits for truss-rod slots and graphite rods.
A couple of ball bearing bits for the cavities.
For binding
Roundover bits.


A few accessories for the Colt are nice such as this base. Also pretty easy to make one. Really is nice to have a larger base for it.
The alignment tool previously mentioned is a good thing.

I like the templates from Stu. One just needs to pay attention and not let the cutter touch them. I always drill out the cavities before routering so even with 1/2" of router bit it's not having to remove much wood. After the first pass with the template I remove it and let the bearing ride against cavity wall. A few depth adjustments and it's a done deal.

If you've never messed with a router Terry...man it is a monster. It doesn't care a thing about you and will eat you up. NEVER change bits or mess around with it plugged in. Plug it in- use it-unplug it...repeat as needed. Scariest tool I own. The bits are razor sharp and will slice you open by just looking at them...I know.
Man I get so tight using a router that when I fart only dogs hear it.

Good luck.

[David King]

Man I get so tight using a router that when I fart only dogs hear it.

Good luck.

AKA "Sphincter Factor 1-10"

[Justwannano]

AKA "Sphincter Factor 1-10"

lol...so you have a router too.

[Quarter]

For a small router I really like my Bosch Colt. With any of the smaller routers I'd recommend getting one of the larger aftermarket bases for it. The larger footprint makes it a bit more stable and you then also have the option to use template bushings too.
That said, if I was in the market for another compact router, the new Dewalt DWP611PK is worth a hard look. Its 1 1/4 hp and has a plunge attachment which would be handy.

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A year later and I'm still loving my Colt, even more so now that I got one of the new plunge bases for it. Bosch did a real good job designing it and its a pleasure to use. For the heavier lifting, my Porter Cable 690 with a 1/2" x 2" carbide spiral bit lives in the router table and the Bosch for everything else.

.

[David Schwab]

If you've never messed with a router Terry...man it is a monster. It doesn't care a thing about you and will eat you up. NEVER change bits or mess around with it plugged in. Plug it in- use it-unplug it...repeat as needed. Scariest tool I own. The bits are razor sharp and will slice you open by just looking at them...I know.
Man I get so tight using a router that when I fart only dogs hear it.

Yes, ALWAYS unplug a power tool and have the end of the plug in view when you change cutters. Ah, routers are NOTHING after you have used a jointer. That's like looking into the jaws of hell. lol (and that says nothing about trying to change blades in those things… enough to age you a few years)

Routers aren't so bad once you have used them enough. Before I had a router table I used to make pickguards on a laminate trimmer held upside down in a vice! You just need to keep your wits about you and don't even use them if you aren't fully awake. I once cut my hand on a band saw… they are probably the safest machines in the shop. But I wasn't paying attention and nicked the side of my hand as I moved it past the blade.

I like power tools, but have injured myself more often with hand tools. To me an X-Acto knife is just as dangerous if you aren't paying attention.