Working on a new winder. . .

[kayakerca]

Still waiting on the quoted Mid-March delivery of the traverser motor. Basically have the wire guide/tensioner complete now. No plans to trim down the side that mounts to the traverser rod until I have it in my hands so there is no mistake on the size of the mounting hole required. At that point, I'll mill off the excess metal, drill the mounting hole and drill and tap the related tightener screw, and that'll be that. I took a page out of the CNCDudez MK1 pickup winder design book and went with the tensioner (2 heavy felt pads) and the wire guide on a small deck that mounts on the traverser. I like that design, just have to see how it works. Also added a brass "pre-felt tensioner" entrance wire guide so the wire wouldn't be coming into the felt tensioner at a hard 90° angle.

Since the wire and the traverser will be at the rear of the winder, access from the front will be clear for "hand guided" winding.

Every day is another day closer to trying a CNC wind.

[Chris Turner]

So how does that brass pre-felt tensioner work? Do you loop the wire through that somehow?

[kayakerca]

So how does that brass pre-felt tensioner work? Do you loop the wire through that somehow?

The wire leaves the spool and goes straight up to about 8" above the top of the spool where it passes through a ~ 1" brass wire guide. From that wire guide it heads down to the brass wire guide on the back side of the tensioner/wire guide deck (see in the photo from previous post) on about a 30° angle , through that wire guide from the back side, through the felt tensioner, then through the wire guide. After it leaves the wire guide it goes over (or under, depending on wind direction) another brass rod, then onto the bobbin as it winds. Actually, it will be a parallel set of brass rods spaced about .0125" apart and the wire will go between in a line directly toward the centre line of the bobbin. The latter brass rod is kinda the same principle as the guide rod on a Schatten hand guided style winder (except no wire guide stops on mine as that is controlled by the traverse). I think that sounds about right.

[David King]

Jim, how about mounting the needle on a horizontal axle so it can swivel up and down as the rotating bobbin ends change the wire feed angle. That could keep you busy for a couple more days right?
While you're at it you could fashion a small delrin pulley to lead the wire off the spool and through the felt. That brass hoop might just wear off a little too much insulation and dull your pickup!!

[kayakerca]

Jim, how about mounting the needle on a horizontal axle so it can swivel up and down as the rotating bobbin ends change the wire feed angle. That could keep you busy for a couple more days right?
While you're at it you could fashion a small delrin pulley to lead the wire off the spool and through the felt. That brass hoop might just wear off a little too much insulation and dull your pickup!!

Seriously David, I have to leave something for v2.0.

[kayakerca]

As before, still waiting on the quoted Mid-March delivery of the traverser motor. . .

Fabricated the final piece today. This is the wire rail I figure will reduce the wear and tear on the exit end of the wire guide nozzle as the bobbin rotates. In (my simplistic) theory, the wire will exit straight out the wire guide and pass between the 2 rails. If the bobbin is rotating CW, the wire will ride on the top of the bottom bar and if the bobbin is rotating CCW, the wire will ride on the underside of the top rail.



Maybe it's time to start laying out and mounting everything on the base (except for that traverser motor which seems to be walking to Canada, up hill, in the snow, bare foot).

[rhgwynn]

Now, I am a little confused - why do you need a 2in stroke? Overkill, right? I think the max you would need ever would be 1in. I mean, unless you want to wind other things, too. Do you mind explaining?

-Rob

[kayakerca]

Now, I am a little confused - why do you need a 2in stroke? Overkill, right? I think the max you would need ever would be 1in. I mean, unless you want to wind other things, too. Do you mind explaining?

-Rob

1" and 2" are the same price. Captive linear actuators can be broken by running into the end of the stroke as it will strip the gears. Seems like pretty cheap insurance to me.

[rhgwynn]

1" and 2" are the same price. Captive linear actuators can be broken by running into the end of the stroke as it will strip the gears. Seems like pretty cheap insurance to me.

My mind sort of started to go in that direction. Makes good sense to operate back and forth from the center of the stroke.

-Rob

[kayakerca]

Forgetting for one moment that the mount and motor at the back does not hold the traverser motor (that is on order) or the tensioner/wire guide deck, the rest is all mounted up and ready to go! The base is 12" wide and 11" deep. The wire caddy goes directly behind where the traverser mount is sitting (but right now, its in the basement)



An overhead "fly by" shot. . .

[kayakerca]

Ya, ya, still waiting for the traverser motor. But that's not enough to keep me from changing stuff. All you guys out there snickering to yourself that that puny little NEMA 14 motor with only 1090 g-cm low speed torque was no way big enough to run the winder. . . Well, I agree with you. So, I changed it up for a NEMA 17 with 4240 g-cm low speed torque! It's a Tim "the Tool Man" Taylor winder motor now! ! ! Of course, we had to make another (larger) bracket.



Bottom of the picture. . . Old motor. . .

Middle of the picture. . . New motor! ! !

Go Big or Go Home!

[big_teee]

Ya, ya, still waiting for the traverser motor. But that's not enough to keep me from changing stuff. All you guys out there snickering to yourself that that puny little NEMA 14 motor with only 1090 g-cm low speed torque was no way big enough to run the winder. . . Well, I agree with you. So, I changed it up for a NEMA 17 with 4240 g-cm low speed torque! It's a Tim "the Tool Man" Taylor winder motor now! ! ! Of course, we had to make another (larger) bracket.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]22276[/ATTACH]

Bottom of the picture. . . Old motor. . .

Middle of the picture. . . New motor! ! !

Go Big or Go Home!

I'll give you 50 bux for it, and you can send me the new traverse motor when it comes in!
Just Kidding, it all looks good!

[kayakerca]

The traverser motor has arrived and its a week early! ! ! Ya Baby! ! !

See that new baby at the back of the winder base. That's it! Wired it in and it works great! Well, at least without being mounted and without the tensioner/wire guide deck and without wire, and without a bobbin in the winder. But other than that, it works great! ! !



Just a little milling to do on the tensioner/wire guide deck and mounting it on the winder base and that should be it. I kinda know what I will be doing Saturday while my wife is off to Toronto with her mother to a bridal shower for my son's soon-to-be bride. Would love to get at it today, but it's Friday and that means beer with lunch. And if I have one shop rule that NEVER is broken is, NO OPERATING THE MACHINERY IF YOU HAVE HAD ANY ALCOHOL.

[kayakerca]

FIRST WIND IS DONE! ! !

As I got part way through the first wind and it hadn't blown up, I pulled out the iphone and took a little vid of the last half of the wind. Setup still needs a bit of tweaking as I can see from how the wind went and finished. But, I have to call in a success overall. I think the beauty of this is not needing a CAM for each bobbin size. Just enter the bobbin size, line it up, and hit start!

Started the project in early January and finished early March. Thought it would take a year but kinda OCD'd on the puppy (as per usual) and got'r done in about 2 months.

So, what did it cost? ? ? Well, before taxes/shipping/etc. . .
- Visual Basic 2010 introductory manual ~ $20 (had to learn develop some basic programming skills)
- Visual Basic 2010 Light $0 (free from Microsoft - love'm or hate'm)
- 2 Phidgets "plug and play" controllers: $175 (my programming skills not good enough for non P&P controllers which would be cheaper)
- 2 motors: $235 (the traverser motor could be done a lot of different ways and a lot cheaper, say $150 cheaper, but not as cool)
- 2 power supplies $0 (had a couple old notebook power supplies sitting around)
- 3 brackets: ~ $5 of metal (plus $5,000 in milling machine and accessories)
- all in CNC would be ~ $435. All in CNC with different traverser setup ~ $240
- all in hand guided version (1 controller/1 motor/1 bracket, basically your heavy duty Schatten style winder) ~ $115
- the learning experience. . . Priceless!

Steve, are you at the point where you can run your new code on your Haydon dual motion motor yet?

[big_teee]

Very Impressive, Great Job! I want One.
Only thing IMO, that would make it better.
Embed it. For all the World to see!

The Jim Dodds CNC Winder