Faceplate makers?

[larams]

Hey no problem. If you get a chance after NAMM let me know.

[aaronbrill]

I'd be happy to help out also if I can, I work in a shop with high-power steel cutting lasers and a waterjet. I built a similar faceplate for my winder using our laser and didn't run into the problems that your are describing. What kind of material are you using?

[larams]

The material I had cut was a 6mm thick clear acrylic. It was done by ponoko.

In this post there is a picture that you can sort of see what their cutting looks like. You can see the issue if you look at the piece I had cut for holding the bobbin to the plate. See how it's not sitting flat and the edges are not right angles? It's the same way on the disk so it's not balanced and the faster it spins the more pronounced the balance issue becomes as it begins to shake the whole machine.

Here is the link:
http://music-electronics-forum.com/t38572/

[aaronbrill]

Yes, I can see the taper on the edges of the pieces. I cut acrylic on the laser at work fairly often, and on that thickness of material I rarely have taper issues like that. Thicker acrylic, say 1/2-3/4" will sometimes want to deflect the beam and cause that problem. My first faceplate was acrylic, but the one I'm using now is made of 3/16" steel, with clamp bars very similar to yours made of 1/8" steel. It adds a more rotational inertia, but my pulley drive system has enough friction that I don't have over-running issues when I slow down or stop. With the steel it runs straight as can be. If you have drawings you can email me I could certainly cut a set from acrylic or steel. Aluminum is a possibility too, but that would be done on the waterjet.

[larams]

That's very nice of you to offer. Thank you very much. The problem for me though is that I have no way to accurately drill the holes for the bobbins and for the 4 hole pattern on the hub I'm using. That's why I probably need a machinist who can do that for me. I tried it a few times myself but could never get things centered. My drill holes would always end up just a hair off and throw off the balance. The Ryobi drill press I have probably doesn't help. The thing has so much play in it.

[aaronbrill]

If you can send me the measurements for the bolt pattern on your hub, and where you need the rest of the holes; I can do it all on the laser. Even if you just have sketches, I'll draw it up in CAD for creating my program.

[aaronbrill]

Maybe I need to look at your pics again, I may be confused on your hub setup. On my winder I have a hub on the shaft that my faceplate attaches to, and all of the bobbin mounting is done on the faceplate only.

[larams]

Maybe I need to look at your pics again, I may be confused on your hub setup. On my winder I have a hub on the shaft that my faceplate attaches to, and all of the bobbin mounting is done on the faceplate only.

That's exactly how mine is. There is a flat disk which all the bobbins are attached to and that disk is attached to a hub with four screws. Then that hub has a center hole that the motor shaft fits.

[larams]

Here is the pattern. I tried to send it using PM but it wouldn't let me upload from my pc.

[aaronbrill]

I shouldn't have a problem doing that. Is there a specific outside diameter you want for the faceplate? Also, what size threads will the holes be tapped? If I have the right size taps I can do that If you want. If you a drawing for your top clamp piece go ahead and send me that too. Early next week is going to be crazy busy at work, but I might be able to fit them in sometime towards the end of the week. Do you want to stick with acrylic for now?

[larams]

The outside diameter of the plate is 3 inches. The holes for the bobbins need to be small enough for tapping a 4-40 screw. The holes for mounting to my hub need to be large enough for a 6-32 screw but it's not tapped because the hub itself is already tapped. I can do all the tapping myself no problem. The clamp piece is the same profile as the bobbin with 2 holes in line with the bobbins outer holes. I have several of them in different sizes depending on the bobbin ie 49.2mm has it's own, 50mm has it's own.

I think acrylic is the easiest material. It's light and easy to tap. The one thing though is it has to be thick enough for me to counter sink the holes for the hub so that the bobbins can lay flat. I'd say 5mm minimum and I'll have enough thickness their for the screws.

As far as when you can do it. I'm in no rush. I don't expect anyone to stop their real lives to go make me a face plate. I just really appreciate that anyone would take the time at all to help me out with this. So anytime that is good for you is perfect for me. I don't expect this to be done for free either. If you want you can PM me the cost. I know there are skills, equipment, time and materials involved.

I do have one question though. If I put another hole in the very center of the plate could I then mount single coil bobbins? I haven't tried any single coils before so I'm not sure how they mount.

[aaronbrill]

Ok, I think I have a humbucker laying around to measure the bobbin size. So the holes in the clamp bars will be a clearance fit for the 4-40 screws? As far as the center hole, that's exactly how I mount my Tele/Strat single coils. I think I am using a 4-40 screw for that as well, which passes through the center hole in the flatwork.

We've got 6mm acrylic at work so that's no problem.

[larams]

You don't have to worry about the clamp bars. I have like ten of them and they work fine. They have little logo's etched in them so I kind of like them. Plus it's fairly easy to true up the sides with some sand paper.

I think I would like to add the center hole for single coils. I don't own any single coil guitars but maybe this will be a justifiable excuse to the wife to let me buy one. Probably not. LOL.

[aaronbrill]

Sounds like a plan! I'll probably leave the tapping and countersinking up to you. PM me your mailing address when you have a chance and I'll let you know when I'm getting ready to send it.