Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Friedman B-50 Output fizzles w/pushed

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Friedman B-50 Output fizzles w/pushed

    Hello folks,
    I figure most techs would find this issue, but it was a bit illusive, so I thought I'd post it anyway....Hey, Voodn't hoit!
    So, the output fizzles & lowers in power w/pushed. Removed chassis & smelled what seemed to be a burning resistor, but no smoke was detectable. I had the chassis turned on end w/input jacks at the top.
    It seemed the strongest around the rear mounted Pentode/Triode switch.
    I couldn't find anything that looked overheated or burned, but I sure could smell it. I set the chassis upside down to see if the smell was more easily detectable in that position as the smell would waft straight upwards where hopefully I could detect it. It was strongest at the Pent/Triode switch.
    I decided as it was pretty easy to do to bypass the switch to be certain that was it, as I couldn't hear any fizzling or still detect any smoke. There was no change in the fizzling of the signal.
    Finally, I just removed the switch from the rear panel and voila...the switch was arcing between the two lower leads that was obscured by the screen resistors that ran to the switch.
    Anyway, I'm sure most of us would find this issue. It was just a little weird as it didn't audibly fizzle or smoke and was visually obscured from view.
    Glen

    Attached Files

  • #2
    Did the bypass involve some other switch contacts? I don't understand how it would still arc with a short between those 2 contacts.
    Originally posted by Enzo
    I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by g1 View Post
      Did the bypass involve some other switch contacts? I don't understand how it would still arc with a short between those 2 contacts.
      Oh, Sorry. Perhaps I wasn't clear.
      Since I hadn't physically removed the switch, I was easier to leave the 2 HI (Pent) wire connections on the switch and set the switch to the Triode position. I then disconnected the one wire and screen resistors for the triode position and externally connected them together to emulate the Triode position. That still left the 2 Pentode position wires connected to the switch. Since the arcing was between those two lugs on the switch, it still arced.
      I hope that's a little clearer.
      Thanx, Glen

      Comment

      Working...
      X