laney aor 100 repair

[kipmoeller1969]

Any one have a troubleshooting guide to the aor 100, and how to tell exactlly
or series it is ? It says AOR 100, then its been scraped away and manufactures date of 5-20-88, I can bi-amp it and use the power , but when you plug into it you get nothing, not even a pop from the speaker, i'm guessing a transformer, but thats a guess,any asisstance, would be great.

[oc disorder]

Hi kipmoeller1969 and welcome to the forum.
There are no specific troubleshooting guides for the Laney AOR 100
but here are two schematics:-

http://tremolo.elektroda.net/tematykanf.php?adres=Firmowe/LANEY

4. AOR100H.pdf
5. AOR100_S2.pdf
I would say yours is the AOR100H (series one) which was drawn in '84 and amended in '85.
The AOR100_S2 (series two) version wasn't drawn 'till 89.
I think the most obvious way to tell is the labeling on the line in/out or loop connections.
The AOR100H (series one) has Line In and Line Out whereas the AOR100_S2 (series two) is labled FX Loop , Send ,Return ....and it has a line out.
I presume when you say "I can bi-amp it and use the power " you can plug into the line in and use the power amp as part of a bi-amp set up but plugging into it "normally" using the front jack there is no sound.
Obviously this means there is no functioning pre-amp.
If the power amp works fine I doubt there is anything wrong with the transformer.
There could be a problem with the supply of power to the preamp but this would be component failure between the transformer and the pre-amp not the transformer itself.
Before getting into the tech stuff for which you will need a multimeter try plugging a normal guitar jack to jack lead (a short patch lead would be ideal)into the line out and the line in.
As the line in socket has a switch in it when there is nothing plugged into it the rear tip connection normally rests on a contact that is connected to the line out (the pre-amp output).
When you plug into the line in it dissconnects the pre-amp and allows direct access to the power amp.
Any grit or a slightly bent contact would stop the pre-amp feeding the power amp.
If that amounts to no change check that all the pre-amp tubes are glowing.
Sometimes it's hard to tell you may need to do that in a darkened room.
Next we need to take some measurements some high voltage ones so if your not 100% confident get a pal with a meter who is.
Happy New Year by the way New Years Day is half over here... looking good so far...................

[kipmoeller1969]

laney

Well i did the check like you said but still get nothing, haven't tried to bi-amp
this thing in a long time so maybe it wont work like i said it did. I'll need to try that again to see if i can still bi-amp it, don't know what else to do.

[oc disorder]

2 fuses to check I dont know if they are both mounted on the back panel T5A and T1A.
On the schematic diagram the power fuse (which will be on the back panel) is 5 amps time lag (slow blow) and the high voltage fuse which could be inside the chassis is a 1 amp time lag (slow blow).
If the 1A has blown it could indicate a fault like a faulty output valve or component however if the amp was used without a speaker or turned flat out or a surge ,this could also blow the fuse.
If you have to remove the chassis to get to the fuse firstly be careful when removing it as the capacitors connected to one end of the fuse holder normally are charged to 450 volts DC. Use some plastic object to lever it out if its in clips and dont hold the chassis in one hand and grab the fuse in the other !
If the amp hasn't been plugged in for a long time they will probably be discharged.
Have a look around for any disconnected wires or slight burn marks on the circuit board where resistors etc have been overheating.
If so their solder joins may need resoldering.