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Man oh man oh man

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  • Man oh man oh man

    I have FIVE of the damned Mackie SWA1501 powered subwoofers in here at the moment. Blown up amps and melted speakers. Got a stack of speakers come in, so that's covered. Noticed they are now sending out Eminence KAppa 16 ohm in place of what was in the things to start with. They should last a lot better.

    Meanwhile I am getting familiar enough with the amps that I can production line them. 5200/1943 pair, an MJ15033, a couple IRF630 and one 640, a few burnt diodes in the middle. SAme stuff. Plus I had ordered bags of 100 of things like the BAV20 diodes and the 1N5245 15v zener. Ther are two +/-15v rail sets in these, both run off the same +/-25v, each set through 330 ohm resistors to the 15v zeners. Always look in the corner and down next to the big caps for burnt 330 ohm resistors. There are a coiple green LEDs that run off one set of rails.

    When those resistors burn, I just replace the four resistors, the four zeners, and the four little caps. No point screwing around to see if some 2 cent part was damaged or not.

    The power from the transformer comes in to a 5-post push-on at the corner. But the plastic housing is in two parts, so you can leave the high voltage disconnected asnd just power up the low voltage stuff. Handy.

    SO I rebuilt one of these things, and power up. No LEDs, voltage is about 3v. BOTH sets are at +/-3v. SO what is loading me down? The diode junctions check at about .7v, nothing seems shorted. The caps are new. Each set of rails powers a 5532 op amp. They can fail, pulled the two ICs, no help. One IC has a bypass cap across it, pull that, no help. These rails don;t go to much, and nothing is loading them down. I should not be having a hard time with this, it's a plain old freaking zener power suply.

    So I am looking at this bag of zeners, from Mouser yet, and it says 1N5245B 15v zener right on the bag of 100. I can't read the tiny print on the parts. SO I fired up a DC supply, grabbed a resistor and one of the diodes from the bag, and VOILA! These ain't 15v zeners in the bag. Whatever they are, they zene pretty well at 3v. Come to think of it, the little print on them looks almost like a "2v4" if my eyes ar working.

    The lesson is that just because you used a trusted supplier, ordered exactly what you needed and got a nice big bag full labelled for what you expected, well that doesn;t mean that is what you got. When repairs don;t make sense, don't forget to check the parts.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

  • #2
    I can't read the tiny print on the parts.
    Me neither, so I bought a Jeweller's loupe, the kind you hold in your eye by frowning, great tool !!!
    Now I see way too much detail.
    Great for inspecting cold solders and cracked tiny tracks too.
    Also agree on not fully trusting supplier's bag labels.
    Juan Manuel Fahey

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    • #3
      I'm just getting to that age where my vision is changing and I'm getting presbyopia.

      I used to be able to read the labels on the parts. Now I can't even read the labels on the back of an amplifier. And its getting worse (but its normal for my age). I used to just put on reading glasses, and they took care of the problem. Now I need higher power reading glasses, and they're not working. Now I'm beginning to think that I'm going to need to find that jeweler's loupe that I have hiding in a drawer somewhere. Its getting so bad that even resistor color codes are becoming a headache. aargh. I hate presbyopia.
      "Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest

      "I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H

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      • #4
        Same with my vision. Started two or three years ago, getting worse.
        I have a "helping hand", I mean one of those tools with two alligator clips on each side of a small rod mounted to a heavy stand. There's a movable loupe on that rod too.

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        • #5
          Even with my hand lenses I have a hard time. These things are no larger than a 1N4148.
          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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          • #6
            Hi Enzo.
            The strongest readily available reading glasses (which I use when drilling small PCBs) are 4 diopters power and 1/4" thick.
            The run of the mill jeweler's loupe is 15 diopters, I guarantee you see everything.
            There is a "Double Power " 25 diopter Loupe, but it's overkill; you can't read labels all at once, you only see letters one by one filling the whole field of vision.
            The *big* disadvantage of powerful loupes is absolute lack of depth of field: the slightest movement and everyhing unfocuses and unsharpens badly.
            The best loupe in the planet is an inverted SLR Normal Lens (50 mm), unmounted from the camera, and used bacwards, your eye on the "outside" and the object you watch on the "inside", where the film would usually be.
            If you have any SLR camera lying dormant in some closet, give it a try.
            Juan Manuel Fahey

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            • #7
              Great idea about the old camera lens. It's time for me to dig through the closet for that old SLR with the broken light meter.
              "Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest

              "I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H

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              • #8
                I have an odd funky lenz removed from a microfiche machine that works wonders for looking at solder joints, diode printing etc etc!

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                • #9
                  yeah, a loupe would be a good addition to my kit. I have a lens on a stand I use for working on SM, all I know is it is about 60mm diameter. ANd I have a small much higher power lens within a larger one for reading components. I have no idea as to diopters. Maybe I'll ask my eye doctor next time around.
                  Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                  • #10
                    component markings

                    Originally posted by txstrat View Post
                    Same with my vision. Started two or three years ago, getting worse.
                    I have a "helping hand", I mean one of those tools with two alligator clips on each side of a small rod mounted to a heavy stand. There's a movable loupe on that rod too.
                    I have a helping hand as you have described, but thw lens is bobbins and my 30 year old Swiss army knife has a much more powerful lens. Even so, it is still difficult to read the colours of a 1/2W metal film resistor. So I had an eye test yesterday. I'm on the wrong side of 40, so I should expect deterioration of close up vision. Not so. Better than 20/20 (6/9 or 9/6) and still good enough for military aviation (I had that one 20 years ago).

                    To summarise - it's the markings, not the eyes.
                    It's not microphonic - it's undocumented reverb.

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                    • #11
                      Yep - I feel your pain...

                      Here in my mid-50's I never go anywhere without two flashlights (AAA Maglite in pocket & AA Maglite in belt holster), two sets of store-bought reading glasses (one stronger than the other), and a pretty strong folding pocket magnifier. On the bench is a 22W swing-arm fluorescent magnifier & over the bench is an 8 foot dual-tube fluorescent fixture.

                      The pocket magnifier has proved especially useful.

                      One trick I use a lot: My reading glasses are the kind with no frames around the lenses and real skinny earpieces so it's not uncommon for me to slide another pair over the ones I'm already wearing for quick super-strength. I'm sure it looks pretty dorky but that's another thing about being in my mid-50's: I don't give a damn how I look as long as I can get the job done.

                      And to comment on Enzo's original post: Thanks for reminding me - I usually try to be pretty diligent about checking part numbers vs bag labeling but sometimes I get lazy. Gotta stay on top of that...

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                      • #12
                        magnifying loops

                        I use to work in the Dental field and we used Magnifying loups that worked real well. They come in different magnification strengths. When you don't need them you lift them out of the way.
                        Last edited by WholeToneMusic; 06-24-2010, 10:49 PM. Reason: typo
                        Helping musicians optimize their sound.

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                        • #13
                          Hello all, just finished one of these Amps with lots if shorted parts and roasted tracks..who ever fixed it before hand stuck in incorrect fuse's such as 2.5 amp in the 1 amp rails and 6.3 in the ht rail supply.
                          it killed itself badly.. I've posted on here a list of parts that I'd found damaged and after plenty of checking time it's back to working order. Might add a Dc/ relay to save the speaker being cooked.
                          The spec says 500w unit. If you look at the diagram it's says 12 ohm speaker... 16 ohm kappa would do just nice here.
                          Experience comes with more understanding

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