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  • Peavey BH400 Problems

    Thanks Enzo. Im doing as you suggested.
    To recap...

    It was passing a small amount of DC to the speaker. Enough to pull the cone to full extension. Didn't measure.

    I pulled the amp section and found Q7 and Q12 bad as well as R26 bad.
    I replaced them and no more DC on the speaker. but unit goes into compression almost instantly and sound is distorted and very weak.

    Tested all other transistors out of circute.

    I put a 200hz signal into the Aux input.
    At the 5 pin connector I have a clean sine wave ac signal all the way into R36.
    At U14 (pin14) the signal is very distorted. I ordered a new U1. Used a TL084C in place of the TL074C. No change.
    So I did some research and found that there may be issues with U2 (peavey 87478) which is now obsolete.
    Contacted peavey and they said it was replaced with a 39095750 OTA adaptor assembly. I orderd and installed. the problem is worse. it goes into compression instantly with any signal at input.

    I did pull the connector to the commpressor stage. sound does not change.
    I know the problem is in the amp section.
    I did notice a sawtooth wave form present on one of the 52V busses about 2Vpp.
    I will double check both sets of plus and minus 15 / 16 volt supplys. I did this and recall they were fine.

    I have tryed to run the unit without U2 but with little change.


    Following from ENZO

    A tiny DC is not a problem, and I mean a tenth of a volt or something. If it measures in volts, then yes, fix it. Until we know for sure the amp is not making DC, get rid of the speaker and any speaker loads. Apparently that has passed.

    I have to say, I have few problems with that compressor circuit. Once in a while it fails, but not nearly as often as other things.

    If it makes things more convenient, you don;t need the preamp panel. I usually lay the amp panel down flat and clip a test signal to the Molex pins where the preamp cable plugs on, eliminating the preamp cable.

    U2 is the compressor chip, that 87478 IC. Pull it, the amp works without it, of course without compression now. We will put it back when the amp is fixed. Your amp cannot put out a clean signal, and U1d distorts the signal the opposite way trying in vain to compensate. That is your distortion at U1d. Pin 14. The compressor is coming on because of all this, just doing its job. Not that it matters with U2 pulled, but in servicing, either pull the four pin molex to the compressor on/off switch or at least turn it to OFF.

    You found Q12 and R26 burned. And Q7. In that case, there is a REAL good possibility Q2 is bad, and probably someone over in Q13-16 land. Check Q2 aqnd R54,55,56. Those resistors like to open when transistors fail. Q7 fails when currents try to flow through it after other parts open. Check CR14 for shorts or low junction drop.

    Q1, Q7 are limiters and not neded for basic amplification. If they might be involved, unsolder one end of CR14 and CR10 and lift them from the circuit. That disables those two circuits. We'll restore that later, and recheck all those parts too.

    There are two long 0.1 ohm 10w resistors between the two three-pin Molexs to the transistor board. Make sure they are not open. (probably OK) Unplug the two thre wire cables there, and on the transistor board, check EVERY resistor for open. Then ther are two groups of four transistors. Note the end one of each group is wired as a driver to the other three. Check them all.

    Just to humor me, make sure the two resistors top center on the page R19,R20 are OK.

    Once any open resistors and bad semiconductors are found and fixed, fire up the amp. No load yet. The schematic has DC voltage references all over it. Check them all and see that they are all more or less close to the drawing. Note: most are with respect to ground, but a couple are across a resistor, NOT to ground.

    Once that is all OK< apply a test signal. 200Hz is fine, I use 100Hz myself. Hell of a lot less ear fatigue than 1kHz. Scope the output bus and run it up. DO you get a full and clean waveform? If you do, then apply a load or speaker and try again. Does it now work? Or does it fail under load? A clean waveform that collapses under load is a different problem from a waveform that is never clean.

    I should have entered this near the top. Ther are two sets of +/-15v. The regulated set is for the preamp. The zener pair is for the power amp itself. Make sure both sets are OK, don;t measure the +/-15 at the preamp and assume they are all OK. A missing or low 15v on the power amp ICs will cause trouble

  • #2
    You can run the amp without the 87478. Try pulling it and see what you get...
    That's the chip that performs the compression, so you just won't get any compression without it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Done That

      I have pulled the 87478.
      No change in audio quality or volume.

      Comment


      • #4
        Pulling U2 - I don't expect that to change anything, it just gets it out of the way. And with it gone, you will not be distracted by its action. The action of U2 is a symptom, not the problem.

        You may have pulled and testeds all the transistors, but those resistors are equally important. A current path is a current path, and if any element in it is open, current won;t flow.

        Make sure the output is not oscillating at RF.
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

        Comment


        • #5
          Ok Enzo. This is what I've done.
          U2 out of circuit. cr14 and cr10 end pulled to remove Q1 and Q7 from limiting.
          Checked R19, 20,28,29,30,31 and R56,57,60,61,62,63. Good
          All transisters Q2,3,4,5,6 and Q12,13,14,15,16 good
          Checking the voltages with no signal.
          +/-15 are good. +/-16 are good. +/- 51V good
          The voltages I didn't like was at
          Q2 (5331) Referenced to GND
          Base -8.97V
          Emit .080
          Col 51V
          across R58 = 0.000V
          Looking at the ouput signal it looks like there is no negative swing.
          So now I have a question about the replacment Q12 I used. It was of course marked 5332.
          Looking at a Peavey cross reference list i found on the web it crosses to SJE5332 or MJE253. I used an MJE253G from Mouser
          I am begining to think I got a bum cross reference!
          Last edited by Techknowman; 08-07-2010, 04:43 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            The cross reference is fine for 5332, however, sometimes the lead order is reversed. Look on the PV cross ref sheet, and it says right there, lead configuration may differ. So verify lead order on the parts and also which hole is which on the pc board, or just call PV and order real 5332s from them. The data sheet for the 253 looks right, and I don;t recall ever getting reverse lead parts, but always check. And make sure you have MJE253 not 243

            Think about how -9v can get to the base of Q2. Either the path through R19,20 is open, or the whole bias string (CR9,13) is being yanked way negative by Q9 or a shot Q12. Or a solder bridge between base and collector on Q12.

            So, is there about 25v dropped across each R19,20? Even if those two resistors are good, that doesn't mean the paths to and from them are. Is C19 there shorted? If there is -9v at the base of Q2, is there about -11 at the base of Q12? The point of the bias string is to maintain that 1.77v distance between the bases. That whole thing moves up and down with the signal, but that voltage space between those bases should always be there.


            Zero volts across R58? Measure resistance with power off, is that shorted? The resistor won;t likely be shorted itself, but if its ends are shorted together elsewhere... If no voltage appears across R58, then Q13-16 can't be turned on, and that explains the lack of the negative half of the output waveform. Also measure to see if the base of Q12 is shorted to -51v.
            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

            Comment


            • #7
              OK this thing is making me pull my hair out.
              I made a list of all the transistors E.B.C voltages.
              while I was testing they shifted and now they are more normal.
              I started out with The Base of Q2 having the -8V on it with 28V across R19 and 20.
              But as I was testing i noticed that he voltages were different.
              So for the fun of it this is the list as it stands now.
              Q8. E -.27 B -.88 C-38.71
              Q9. E -50.1 B -49.5 C -1.30
              Q10. E -50.4 B -50.0 C -49.4
              Q2. E 0.007 B.49 C 50.2
              Q12. E -.954 B -1.25 C -50.1 ( before shift E -7.72 B -8.30 C -50.7)
              I'm thinking that Q2 and or Q9 is leaky or breaking down under voltage.
              So for gits and shiggles I'm replacing Q2 and 9 (MJE243G)
              and Q8 (2n5401)
              and Q10 (2n3391)
              Last edited by Techknowman; 08-07-2010, 08:30 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Without me reading it all over again, you replaced Q12, but did you ever replace Q2 as well? Pretty common to replace the drivers on both sides.

                Q10 is just a limiter, remove it for now. Probably not bad. Q8 probably not bad either. But they are all cheap, so go ahead and swap them.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                Comment


                • #9
                  No only Q12. Q2 tested good and Mouser was / is out of 243's so I didnt worry about it.
                  I did find an alternate source.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    OK this what has been replaced.
                    Q2, Q7, Q8, Q9, Q10, Q12.
                    R26, R58
                    U1
                    U2 with PEAVEY OTA adapter.
                    With everything connected but compression and input signal cable from mixer.
                    Voltage at Q8 . B -.87 E -.26
                    Voltages are now more normal with the exception of..
                    Base of Q2 .1V
                    Collector Q9 or Base Q12 -1.66V
                    Signal is still very distorted and weak.
                    Also now when I turn power off there is a faint squealing sound ase the system discharges.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So you have bias of 1.67 instead of 1.77v, close enough.

                      Leave out U2 and CR10,14 until it is fixed. ANd might as well remove Q17,18 and see if they are involved, we don't need them until it is fixed.

                      Isolate the problem. APply signal, what does the waveform look like at collector Q9? About the same as the output or different ann exaggerated? If Q9 agrees with the output, then the stuff to the right of Q9 is probably OK. If they are very different, then something over there is wrong, most likely an open somewhere.

                      Does the output of the TL074 look like the signal or is it exaggerated in distortion?

                      This system is a loop, signal into the IC, the IC drives Q9, Q9 yanks the bias string up and down, which drives the bases of the output stages. And the output is sampled back to the IC through R14,15 so it can correct any distortions.
                      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The base of Q2 is supposed to be +1.17V I get .1V
                        The collector of Q9 should be-.6V I get -1.66V
                        It seams like the bias string is being pulled to the negative rail by 1 volt more than it should.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yes, I'd agree with that, but the basic bias function of the string seems to be working, the collector of Q9 is also the base of Q12. The bases of those two pre-drivers, Q2, Q12 need to stay that 1.7v apart. Both bases are about the same amouny more negative, so the buas is maintained. The question is then, is that same offset on the output bus as well? For example, if one of the power transistor sections was not working, like an open somewhere, then the output would try to sit funny. But the amp would try to compensate. And it could be that by holding those bases 1v to the side, it makes the output center on zero.

                          DO you ge3t the specified .58v from base of Q13 to the resistor common at V-? And do you get the same number from the base of Q3 ti the resistor common for that group?

                          And have we looked at those waveforms yet?
                          Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            with a 5mv 500hz sine wave input to the amp at the input connector..
                            I get .6V peak to peak at U1 pin 14.
                            its the same sine wave but the the tops are a rounding flatening out not a full clip flat.

                            The output signal at the speaker jack with 8ohm dummy load is .1V peak to peak
                            The + part of the wave is sine wave shaped the - side is flat clipping. The negative side is conducting some about 2/3 what the + side is. I have no way to upload an image.

                            I pulled all the outputs Q3-Q6 qnd Q13-Q16. These were replaced sometime in the past with 70484140 units.
                            I tested each one with my fluke meter and they all test good. No shorts, opens or leakage and the forward readings are all close. 485 - 510.
                            I'm in the process of re-heatsinking and installing back in the board. BTW I did verify all the other parts on the 400BH output board

                            i'll get those measurments across R46 and 47 ASAP
                            Last edited by Techknowman; 08-12-2010, 01:40 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well I'm all smiles
                              The thing has a pulse and will survive the operation!
                              After re-heatsinking the TO3's I went back an measured the voltages across R46 and 47.
                              46 was good 47 was a little low. So i thought I would check the voltage at Q12 emitter. and it was 1.2V which couldn't be right.
                              So double check R54 and r55 found the problem. Both open. Grrrrr was a dip $#%* moment.
                              I know I checked them with R26 open and Q2 shorted i would have had too. but obviously I didn't.
                              Anyway after replacing them, things were working well. then I got a bad pop. that turned out to be a bad connection where CR13 plugs into the 400BH.
                              the connectors pins were not very tight. I went ahead and cut the wires off and soldered them directly to the board. This could hav been one of the reasons it blew the first time.
                              Oh BTW im not the first in this unit. whoever did it last when they replaced R26 and 58, they used standard carbon resistors not flame proof.
                              Anyway its all back togeather and I pushed it to 180W before clipping and compression.
                              Sound pretty good! Thanks for the help.

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