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Monster Pro 2500 High Pitched Whistle

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  • #31
    I am not sure how many people use such units but it seems like the same hype that created the market for $3,500 a meter "interconnects" when no double blind tests prove any benefit or even that any of the claims made are true over same gauge zip cord or any conductor. I will give credit to Monster, as the ones who really got people believing in fairies and magic and were able to exploit gullibilities better than others back in the 80s which created a whole catalog of myths about audio. I have yet to see one of their products that do anything close to what they claim, however.
    The most important part of the circuit are the MOV's which are consumables....but your gear probably already has them. Essentially people are paying a high price to include another point of failure in a system that has the capability of actually reducing peak current available to the gear needing it, with scant evidence that there is any improvement in sound as claimed. The decrease in supply stiffness DOES impact sound. I dare say, the broken power conditioners are more of a problem than broken sound units in the face of noisy or unstable mains.
    Has anyone actually heard a difference...other than the constant buzzer sound from underrated protection devices?

    The suggestions earlier that the buzzer will sound even after reset is not likely to be true, it is simply turned on by whatever control circuit that supplies the source current for the buzzer. Buzzers do not have trigger thresholds that trip permanently. Find out why the control circuit is turning the buzzer on. Probably only an open thermal switch/fuse.

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    • #32
      We discussed this already. The buzzer is an indicator that the MOVs in the unit have failed and need replacement. The thermal fuse is to protect the unit from catching fire if the MOVs go leaky and overheat. If fixing one of these things I would replace all the MOVs. Never solder a thermal fuse, find some other way of hooking it up.

      I agree that owning a power conditioner is pretty pointless, but if you must have one, get a better value for money brand. I can think of exactly one occasion in my life when a MOV saved me money: I was installing equipment at a science park in Denmark, and I hooked it up to 400V instead of 230 by mistake. (my excuse: the European wire colours had just changed )

      The MOV exploded so violently that it blew a hole in the case of the mains filter, but as designed, it failed short and popped the breaker in the plant room. The rest of the equipment was unharmed.
      "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Mark Black View Post
        Sorry from me - units long gone...
        Darn. Monster won't give me the value, they told me to take it to a service center a pay the flat repair fee. Yeah, lets pay $75 for a diode.

        I'll think I'll just draw out the schematic and figure out what it should be.

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        • #34
          Hey Guys, I have had the same problem and the fuse as discussed earlier is definately blown. I have found and ordered the 98c from digikey. But I have another problem also...I think. I have a capacitor and zener diode right beside each other that has overheated (both of them). I want to replace these also but I am having problems on getting the exact same spec parts. I was wondering if maybe you guys could point me in the right direction on this. I have some ordered that I think will work I just want to be sure...

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          • #35
            Originally posted by DIY_Guy View Post
            Darn. Monster won't give me the value, they told me to take it to a service center a pay the flat repair fee. Yeah, lets pay $75 for a diode.

            I'll think I'll just draw out the schematic and figure out what it should be.
            Did you ever find out what the value of ZD101 was? I have another unit with the same problem :/

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