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Crate Blue Voodoo 2612 smelled funny then not working right

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  • #16
    Update...the speaker that had the issue still sounds cooked. Now I'm just sitting here with my head hung low sad sad sad

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    • #17
      Don't feel so bad, a cooked voice coil in one of the speakers may account for all the issues, burning smell, drop in volume, etc. It may have been stressed before you got it, which would not be a big surprise from an owner who overfused with a 10A fuse.
      The price you paid may not be a great deal for the amp had you known it needed a speaker, but not a terribly bad deal either.

      Edit: re-reading, I see there is also a reverb problem. Inspect the inside of the reverb tank, you may find a broken spring. If that is the case you will need to replace the reverb tank.
      Last edited by g1; 10-08-2013, 06:32 PM.
      Originally posted by Enzo
      I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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      • #18
        reverb tank looks fine..no broken spring...only a very small stretch in one of the springs about .040 of an inch. Thanks for all of your help, but at this time I am just going to buy a pair of speakers and send the amp to a tech.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by km6xz View Post
          The schematic I saw might not be the correct one because it shows only 4 12AX7s and 2 6L6 tubes.
          The schematic on the elektrotanya site is actually for the BV60H.
          Attached are schematics for the BV60. (with 12AU7).
          Attached Files
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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          • #20
            DreamTheatre it's a drag about the speaker. My understanding is when the coil on the back of the cone gets hot it can warp and become dislodged and consequently scrapes in the gap.
            Other than that occasionally debris can get in the gap between the coil and the magnet.
            Sometimes a re-cone is cheaper than a new speaker.

            I'm attaching a big jpg of the layout & hopefully I have the right one. I have marked some resistors that commonly fail .
            They usually go open circuit or read in the megohms ie the resistance reads really high instead of a typical value.
            I also attach the PDF that the layout came from with a parts list.

            If you haven't a multimeter or soldering iron it probably makes more sense to use the money you could spend on tools
            to finance a repair from a competent tech.

            Well you can present the chassis with all the service diagrams supplied here and some of our "waffle?" printed to the tech,
            which should help to reduce the time spent.

            Let us know how it goes , it's good for the next person who might have a similar problem.
            You can usually drag the thread up again after a few weeks.
            Attached Files

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            • #21
              I was totally bumbed...I removed the chassis, and its going to a tech. I peeled the faded tolex off the cab and I am going to redo it. I am going to work with the tech so that I can become familiar the inner working of a tube amp. I just want to do it right. Thanks for all your help and the scematics. When its done I will chime back in. Thanks again

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