Elsewhere, we mentioned the GC9337 burnisher, so I thought maybe we might explore other little useful tools.
In no particular order, I keep at hand:
O-ring seal pick. Looks like the dental pick your dentist uses. I have had my OTC pick for decades. I have yet to bend it or break it. The pointy end is great for pushing into an eyelet full of wires while the solder is melted. It shoves the wires aside and makes a hole for the new resistor you want to install. The point is good for shoving down beside tube socket pins to tighten them. It helps pry leads twisted around terminal strip or turret conections. The curved end looks benign, but there is a tiny notch in it just near the end, so it is a spring pusher. Another use is fetching a nut out from under a board. I can put the point through the nut and turn it and get the thing out of a tight spot. A million uses.
Amazon.com: OTC 7312 O-Ring and Oil Seal Pick: Automotive
15mm deep socket. It fits the large plastic nut on a Cliff type jack. A deep socket is easier to grip, I just use the socket by itself. I can tighten it more than enough without a ratchet. ( I also keep 1/2" and 9/16 nut drivers nearby for jack nuts, and 9,0,11mm nut drivers for pot nuts.)
A cheap plastic caliper/micrometer. I use this ALL THE TIME. Is that a 12mm or 14mm control? Is that a 10mm or 11mm nut?
6" Utility Caliper
Automatic center punch - the spring loaded thing that you push down and BANG it makes a center punch hole.
Search results for: 'center punch'
Piece of tubing with about 3/16 inside diameter. I am not sure exactly, I have one brass thinwall with OD of 3/16 and a plastic one OD 1/4". In any case, you know those plastic points they mount circuit boards on? It pokes through a hole on the board, and a little barb snaps out to the side to hold the board. Instead of squeezing the barb with pliers, just push this tube down over the thing, then pull up on the board.
A little container of #56 drill bits. Or something close, I don;t see it as critical. I use them with my Dremel or even my battery drill to make holes in circuit boards. Sometimes I need to move a part to avoid a damaged/burnt area, or a different lead spacing new part. But also, when a crack is running across a board, a hole drilled at the end of the crack is a strain relief that stops the crack from moving any further. 1/16" is way too big, often.
A little 1/4" drive hand ratchet, also serves as a 1/4" hex wrench. good for close clearance work.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/96-255
A set of tiny "jeweler's" screwdrivers. Handy even if only to tighten the little screw on my glasses.
Brush eraser. bear with me. These come in brass, stainless, nylon, but the one we need is the fiberglass. This thing started life as an ink eraser for draftsmen, it abraded the paper away. But I use it a lot on circuit boards. It neatly takes the green solder mask off the copper traces when you need that. But the fiber is softer than the copper, so it takes off the lacquer, but doesn't harm the copper. It also shines up oxidized connector pins, or edge conectors on boards. It cleans sliding surfaces like on a variac or rheostat. Now it IS fiberglass, so resist the temptation to run your finger over the end of it. I aksi use it to help remove stubborn charred areas on circuit boards - it is one step before Dremel grinding.
E111/C Metal Body Coarse FybRglass® Eraser
OH that is enough for now.
In no particular order, I keep at hand:
O-ring seal pick. Looks like the dental pick your dentist uses. I have had my OTC pick for decades. I have yet to bend it or break it. The pointy end is great for pushing into an eyelet full of wires while the solder is melted. It shoves the wires aside and makes a hole for the new resistor you want to install. The point is good for shoving down beside tube socket pins to tighten them. It helps pry leads twisted around terminal strip or turret conections. The curved end looks benign, but there is a tiny notch in it just near the end, so it is a spring pusher. Another use is fetching a nut out from under a board. I can put the point through the nut and turn it and get the thing out of a tight spot. A million uses.
Amazon.com: OTC 7312 O-Ring and Oil Seal Pick: Automotive
15mm deep socket. It fits the large plastic nut on a Cliff type jack. A deep socket is easier to grip, I just use the socket by itself. I can tighten it more than enough without a ratchet. ( I also keep 1/2" and 9/16 nut drivers nearby for jack nuts, and 9,0,11mm nut drivers for pot nuts.)
A cheap plastic caliper/micrometer. I use this ALL THE TIME. Is that a 12mm or 14mm control? Is that a 10mm or 11mm nut?
6" Utility Caliper
Automatic center punch - the spring loaded thing that you push down and BANG it makes a center punch hole.
Search results for: 'center punch'
Piece of tubing with about 3/16 inside diameter. I am not sure exactly, I have one brass thinwall with OD of 3/16 and a plastic one OD 1/4". In any case, you know those plastic points they mount circuit boards on? It pokes through a hole on the board, and a little barb snaps out to the side to hold the board. Instead of squeezing the barb with pliers, just push this tube down over the thing, then pull up on the board.
A little container of #56 drill bits. Or something close, I don;t see it as critical. I use them with my Dremel or even my battery drill to make holes in circuit boards. Sometimes I need to move a part to avoid a damaged/burnt area, or a different lead spacing new part. But also, when a crack is running across a board, a hole drilled at the end of the crack is a strain relief that stops the crack from moving any further. 1/16" is way too big, often.
A little 1/4" drive hand ratchet, also serves as a 1/4" hex wrench. good for close clearance work.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/96-255
A set of tiny "jeweler's" screwdrivers. Handy even if only to tighten the little screw on my glasses.
Brush eraser. bear with me. These come in brass, stainless, nylon, but the one we need is the fiberglass. This thing started life as an ink eraser for draftsmen, it abraded the paper away. But I use it a lot on circuit boards. It neatly takes the green solder mask off the copper traces when you need that. But the fiber is softer than the copper, so it takes off the lacquer, but doesn't harm the copper. It also shines up oxidized connector pins, or edge conectors on boards. It cleans sliding surfaces like on a variac or rheostat. Now it IS fiberglass, so resist the temptation to run your finger over the end of it. I aksi use it to help remove stubborn charred areas on circuit boards - it is one step before Dremel grinding.
E111/C Metal Body Coarse FybRglass® Eraser
OH that is enough for now.
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