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Help with suspicious power supply on a Digitech RP1000

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  • #16
    Just thought I should add a picture of the removed chip.Click image for larger version

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Strikerj View Post
      Just thought I should add a picture of the removed chip.[ATTACH=CONFIG]27334[/ATTACH]
      You should put that IC back in, clean the board, and send to Digitech. I am pretty sure they will repair that unit at a flat rate of less than $100. IIRC its around $85.

      The ADNAII chip is proprietary iirc.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by guitardad View Post
        You should put that IC back in, clean the board, and send to Digitech. I am pretty sure they will repair that unit at a flat rate of less than $100. IIRC its around $85.

        The ADNAII chip is proprietary iirc.
        Sounds good but I don't know of any Digitech repairers in Australia.
        Besides I got it second hand.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Enzo View Post
          Not your fault strikerj. Welcome to the forum.

          This 100v thing is a fiction Soundguruman has made up and still spreads when he can. It is his equivalent of a conspiracy theory.


          As you clearly already understand, the only difference between operation on 100v and 120v would be the power adaptor. And those are correctly specified.
          The 100 volt thing is absolutely accurate.

          There are DOZENS of products designed to run on 100 volts AC, which are sold in USA, relabeled 120 volts.
          Everything from Nakamichi cassette decks, to Yamaha PA mixers, to KUSTOM PA mixers (power amp board manufactured by SANYO JAPAN) to Harke Bass amps, to Digitech effects pedals.

          I stand by this statement as being 100% true.

          ALL the voltages on the schematic, will read 20% higher. CHECK IT YOURSELF!

          REDUCE the input voltage to 100VAC. NOW all the voltages on the schematic read dead ON.

          This stresses the voltage regulators and capacitors...pushing the temperature to the very limit of operation.

          Absolutely verifiable, absolutely true.

          DIGITECH plug in "wall wort transformers:"
          ALL of them produce 20% higher voltage than the label indicates.

          stop whining and start measuring. Your volt meter does not lie.

          FACT IS: Higher voltage = higher temperature = shorter component LIFESPAN.
          Last edited by soundguruman; 02-05-2014, 03:19 PM.

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          • #20
            OK, I'll bite....what model Yamaha mixers? I have worked on many, was the warranty station and each had transformers that were different for each market.
            Hartke bass amps like the 5000, were spec'd for 120volts, also warranty for those, made in China primarily for the US market not for Japan. What Kustom models? Way back like the 1600 PA from 1971? Definitely 120volts by design.
            I have worked on many Nakamichi decks and preamp from the 1000 3 head decks on, and all have transformers with multiple taps for 100, 117, 220 and 240 volts. Which models are you talking about?

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            • #21
              thank you all for your help, ill try and find the part I need and let you know how it goes :-)

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Strikerj View Post
                Hi everyone, first post for me and just wanted to say awesome site so far, like what I see

                Anyway ive got this RP1000 guitar processor here which I got from that great place called Ebay
                Now it seems the unit turns on and has a display but no signal on the outputs including headphones.

                Pulled it apart and found someone with sub solder skills (could have been worse) has had a go at it and made a dogs breakfast out of it.
                I got my hands on the PSU schematic provided by Lostfollicles Thank you very much and repaired and rebuilt all effected parts.
                to the best of my ability. (some parts on order)

                I have a habit of testing the circuit before powering it on and found something that I think is wrong.
                The +1.8v Vout track from U30 (chip removed) reads 3.5ohms to ground. now I think thats wrong. seems to be the power supply for the DNA2 chip.

                Is this safe to turn on or will the MB be fried again? (earth pin on U30 was burnt away before i got it)

                If anyone can answer or help with this It will be you (Awesome) guys
                Schematic suppled below.
                [ATTACH]27316[/ATTACH]

                Thanks again
                One question, were you able to solve your problem with the rp 1000?
                Well I have the same problem​​
                Last edited by Chuck H; 12-10-2023, 06:43 PM. Reason: translated spanish to english

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                • #23
                  What component did you have to change?
                  Last edited by Chuck H; 12-10-2023, 06:44 PM. Reason: translated spanish to english

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