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  • #16
    It works great on pots, and yes, you need to pry the tabs and remove the back of the pot. My experience has been that pots - at least volume or any other log pots - are generally noisiest near their 7:00 position, since we tend to put them through the most activity in that range. Remember, the only reason pots "work" is because of the friction when that wiper is pressed up against the resistive strip, so that first 40 degrees of rotation get scraped by the wiper most of all. I apply a few droplets to that end of the resistive strip and rotate the wiper back and forth to spread it around. Generally, I have to put in a drop or two at the 7:00 position, then again at 12:00, and maybe at 5:00. For slide or stompswitches, I also pry the tabs, apply a droplet to the surface of the contacts, and reassemble. Not that you asked, but I've been able to rehabilitate TV remotes whose conductive keypad rubber has seen better days.

    We tend to think of "dirty pots" as being contaminated exclusively by external dirt, but some of it is what the wiper has scraped off the resistive strip. Much like highway pavement, it starts out smooth, but eventually there is stuff on the road surface that has not only come from vehicles or the side of the roadway, but also been lifted up from the asphalt to create lots of little pits. The contact cleaners sweep away all the residue on the top of the strip, and the Stabilant fills in the pits.

    As the blurb indicates, it has lubricating properties, which is particularly helpful for those cheaper 12mm Alpha pots, my experience is that the cheaper and smaller the pot, the less elegant and gentle the wiper. So anything that reduces cumulative friction in a 12mm pot is appreciated. I tend to pretreat my pots with the stuff to keep them healthy, instead of only saving it for emergencies or repairs.

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    • #17
      I don't know but I use the Gold on jacks.
      I use the D5 on pots.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
        Isopropyl, well it's a good solvent all right but a bit dodgy medically. The body has no means of clearing it, even from inhaled fumes, so it accumulates and causes problems, according to Dr Hulda Regehr Clark.
        It appears in Europe as a food ingredient - emulsifier or solvent, though one of my favourite sauces 'Henderson's Relish' has recently dropped it from their product, according to the label.

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        • #19
          FWIW since 94% ethyl alcolhol is freely sold in Argentina, to the tune of buying it in any supermarket or corner convenience store, I use a lot of it everyday, even wiping my hands grease/sweat free every 30 minutes if I am drilling PCBs and such work, where I don´t want fingerprints on copper.

          Also for wiping grimey front panels, cleaning dirty knobs with a toothbrush, etc.

          As mentioned above, 94/96% is stable and as pure as distillation can make it; any drier means specially water absorbent chemicals have been used and not really necessary (except in an analytical chemistry lab) because just opening the bottle or wetting a Q Tip with it will make it absorb water from air humidity.

          Being cheap and plentiful, I usually load a syringe with it and *flush* the pots or switches with it through any available opening, so no real need to open them.

          Vigorously moving shaft end to end 5-10 times is enough to clean what can be cleaned; if not I declare the track worn and in need of replacement.

          No Stabilant or Cramolin or Deoxit commercially available here, of course.

          I believe their cleaning/surfactant claims; but those claiming it becoming conductive under an electrical field are ridiculous and even dangerous if true .
          No danger of that, of course
          Juan Manuel Fahey

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          • #20
            Hello,
            After all the searching for contact cleaner I use what is recommended by Chip Todd from the Peavey guitar world. Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. Works great, costs a measly sum of $3.99 at any auto parts store. Just check it on a non visible part of the guitar to be sure it will not ruin the finish. I have yet to have a problem with it.

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            • #21
              Here where I live Deoxit is damn expensive- if you can find it. I have tried everything I can get my hands on, including what these idiots here are selling or what the chinese are forcing down on this little third world nook southern-most tip of Africa. Servisol, Kontact Chemie, Electro keen, Hirchels Electronic cleaner, CRC.... the list goes on.
              I have been doing some comparative testing with Deoxit, cause its the only thing that works here. This stuff should be worshipped and carried around on a golden platter.
              Anyways, I found a cleaner known as EML by a company called Electro lube. RS components is big here, and they sell it.
              It really works well. Haven't been able to tell a difference in performance compared to Deoxit.
              I will keep testing as time goes by, and my precious can of Deoxit diminishes Check it out!!!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by SpareRibs View Post
                Hello,
                After all the searching for contact cleaner I use what is recommended by Chip Todd from the Peavey guitar world. Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner. Works great, costs a measly sum of $3.99 at any auto parts store.
                Brake cleaner is designed to leave your brakes completely dry and free of any residue.
                Pots are pre-lubricated when new. Cleaning controls with ANY cleaner that does not leave behind a lubricant will remove the factory lube and leave them dry. This reduces their lifespan.
                I'd like to see the Chip Todd quote, I'm wondering if he was talking about the switches? Or does he lube the pots after the cleaning?
                Originally posted by Enzo
                I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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                • #23
                  Originally posted by SpareRibs View Post
                  I use what is recommended by Chip Todd from the Peavey guitar world. Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner.
                  Saint Cesar Diaz used to recommend carburetor cleaner & look what happened to him. Got a spare liver? Wrecked a lot of pots too. I'm not so sure I'd go for brake cleaner either.
                  This isn't the future I signed up for.

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                  • #24
                    Great. Now I see the local company that use to sell small quantities of Deoxit here in South Africa, aren't selling it anymore.
                    I had a look online this morning, but NO ONE ships that stuff here.
                    Must be a security issue with it being flammable and shit...
                    Any ideas/help???

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                    • #25
                      A lot of lore about DeOxit but it is more complicated and factually different than commonly reported. It was a matter of licensing and marketing agreements between a number of companies. The chemical was a German patent and manufactured by Schaeffer &Co in Germany. It is now called Cramolin Chemisch-technische of Muhlacker, Germany. It was marketed in the rest of the world as Cramolin of various types but ended up being distributed in the US by Caig Laboratories in 1978 under a distribution agreement. There were disagreements between the distributor and maker because Caig promoted that it was their product. One of the chemists who developed it moved to the US in the 60's, and he offered to sell the formula to Caig. In the meantime, Shaeffer sold the parent company to ITW in the US after the death of the founder. That is when the original factory in Germany was renamed Cramolin Chemisch-technische which distributes products which then were under the CRC trademark and Cramolin. In 1991 the Cramolin company was sold off to H-Dieter Schlindwein, John Berry and Richard Shaffert who had been CRC employees. So now Caig labs have their own product, essentially a copy of the original Cramolin but with different propellants and Cramolin now has its own product line marketed under the Cramolin brand name and CRC has their version. Confused yet? DeOxit is primarily a US and Canada product, CRC and Cramolin are available is many more countries. They all work. CRC is now owned by a US company ITW but primarily distributes outside of the US.

                      We were importing Cramolin before Caig Labs started selling it in the US and kept buying ours directly until 1991-2 when Freon was banned. Cramolin created legal version immediately but we got a special price from Caig to switch so did about that time. The best one I believe was the original because of how fast the solvent evaporated. The first versions of compliant DeOxit were messy and stayed wet for a long time. They came out with another version called D-n-5 that had Naptha to solve that problem but it destroyed some types of plastics in an interesting and dramatic way. Eventually Caig changed it again and now DeOxit is pretty good for evaporation and safe with plastic.. I have CRC, Cramolin and an old can of D-5 here and I am very happy with the performance of Cramolin Kontaclean. They all work better than any dry solvents that we used to use like Carbon Tetrachloride which was dirt cheap but terrible for pots and switch contacts since it caused them to be too clean and oxidize faster if it was not already clear of oxidation. It is not a de-oxidizer.



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                      • #26
                        Thanks for the thorough "History of Cramolin" Stan! I sure did notice the odor of lighter fluid (naptha) when they brought out the no-freon variety. No more spraying into live AC switches or kaBOOM. Can't say I ever had a plastic melting experience with D5 or F5 sprays, but Caig's non-residue cleaner would make some hard-plastic (polycarbonate?) jacks like the ones in 90's on Fenders, craze and crumble within a few seconds. Oops. Similar effect on the AC switches in Hughes & Kettner amps. They must have altered that formula too, as it hasn't been a problem for a while. Back in the late 70's I did have some pot innards melt into art projects on application of Radio Shack spray cleaners, just before Cramolin entered the market in dram bottles, 100%, marketed to the hi fi crowd.

                        "The less you use the better it works". A little does go a long way.
                        This isn't the future I signed up for.

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                        • #27
                          I usually recommend Deoxit because it's available at Radio Shack and many novice types don't want to wait and/or order online products. They're usually looking for a "right now" solution. I myself usually use THIS which seems to work just as well and is considerably cheaper.
                          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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                          • #28
                            DeOxit is a completely different sort of chemical than the contact lube you gave a link to, they are not useful for the same thing. Removing freeing the oxygen that makes the metal surface non-conducting is a chemical process, not "cleaning" although there is a cleaning component. A lube does not attack the cause of the intermittent posts, switches, jacks and connectors.

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                            • #29
                              Gonna try some Servisol Super10. I think thats readily available round here..

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by diydidi View Post
                                Gonna try some Servisol Super10. I think thats readily available round here..
                                pretty simple stuff,just some oil in a carrier,
                                http://servisol.co.uk/wwwcrc/msds/se...super%2010.pdf

                                this would probably work as well

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