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Thanks a lot.
VERY interesting heatsink shape.
I am designing a brick but using flat aluminum plate, 2.5 to 3 mm thick ... ... far easier to get
As of your technique: yes, epoxy becomes brittle with heat.
I do the same, but with a narrow stream heat gun and a dental pick to crack it out, bit by bit, and forcefully "disassemble" speakers, think high power JBL, EV and such, for which there is no way to get original cones here in Argentina, so I have to reuse them.
Also a rotary file, either conical or ball, mounted on a Dremel.
Your boards cracked inevitable because any temperature which affects potting epoxy will also affect PCB base material.
Doubly so those paper phenolic ones, but even glass-epoxy ones will be much weakened, by definition.
I was surprised at the amplifier complexity, I expected much simpler ones.
Of course these used plain bipolars and not expensive Mos Fets and they had to add good short protection so they last long beyond warranty period.
VERY interesting heatsink shape.
I am designing a brick but using flat aluminum plate, 2.5 to 3 mm thick ... ... far easier to get
As of your technique: yes, epoxy becomes brittle with heat.
I do the same, but with a narrow stream heat gun and a dental pick to crack it out, bit by bit, and forcefully "disassemble" speakers, think high power JBL, EV and such, for which there is no way to get original cones here in Argentina, so I have to reuse them.
Also a rotary file, either conical or ball, mounted on a Dremel.
Your boards cracked inevitable because any temperature which affects potting epoxy will also affect PCB base material.
Doubly so those paper phenolic ones, but even glass-epoxy ones will be much weakened, by definition.
I was surprised at the amplifier complexity, I expected much simpler ones.
Of course these used plain bipolars and not expensive Mos Fets and they had to add good short protection so they last long beyond warranty period.
but no one wants to repair it cause there is no schematic for the circuit... 
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