Originally posted by Jazz P Bass
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Mackie 1604 charming problems
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This schematic is confusing as all get out.
I guess it makes more sense with the unit in front of you.
On page 3, upper right is shown the head phone ic power supply.
It's labeled +16V-PHN & -16V-PHN.
The connector is labeled J36-2 & J36-3.
Where does this go to? (the J36 header)
Can it be disconnected?
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Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostThis schematic is confusing as all get out.
I guess it makes more sense with the unit in front of you.
Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostOn page 3, upper right is shown the head phone ic power supply.
It's labeled +16V-PHN & -16V-PHN.
The connector is labeled J36-2 & J36-3.
Where does this go to? (the J36 header)
Can it be disconnected?
I just went thru the pod board and checked every ground to the +16 supply. 155K with black lead on the +16 supply and 47K when I checked with the leads reversed. I am beginning to think the pod board is OK and something that it is responsible for supplying to the main board trips out the +16 supply. Back to more intense studying of the schematic.
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Originally posted by nylicens View PostI am beginning to think the pod board is OK and something that it is responsible for supplying to the main board trips out the +16 supply. Back to more intense studying of the schematic.
Current measurements in series with the +16 line out of the regulator would be helpful.
The other thing I was wondering about was the use of mica and silpad at the regulator. You want a very thin layer between the reg and heatsink, would be best to use one or the other type of insulator.
Edit: The part I don't get is why your gator clips were overheating if the pod is all good.Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by g-one View PostGood idea. Originally when you said the +16 held up with the pod disconnected, I assumed the pod had to be responsible.
Originally posted by g-one View Post...The part I don't get is why your gator clips were overheating if the pod is all good.
Can it be that the grounds for each channel are unique and are supplied from the pod board??
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Originally posted by nylicens View PostCan it be that the grounds for each channel are unique and are supplied from the pod board??
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Originally posted by nylicens View PostCan it be that the grounds for each channel are unique and are supplied from the pod board??
This is what 15 of the caps looked like:
And this is what Ch 11 looked like:
Looks like tomorrow will be smd soldering day
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That appears to be on the +15 line. You can probably just remove it without replacing and the thing will still work just fine. Or at least you can remove it and see if your short goes away."I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostThat appears to be on the +15 line. You can probably just remove it without replacing and the thing will still work just fine. Or at least you can remove it and see if your short goes away.
Thanks to all for your help and suggestions!
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I used to like saying "like having to pull the engine to change the spark plugs". But with the longer lifespan of modern plugs, and the shorter lifespan of modern electronics, now I say "like having to pull the engine to change the oil".Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by nylicens View PostAnd there's nothing like getting it all reassembled and forgetting to put in the slider pot shield.
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Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View PostIt is a real treat removing all of the knobs & nuts.
Then people wonder why there is a $200.00 charge for changing out a ten cent capacitor."
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