Metcal solder station

[Mick Bailey]

After a second iron replacement for my Xytronic 169D and 48 hours without it, I'm looking for something else and relegate that to being a backup. The first iron lasted 5 years, the second - two months. I really like that setup but can't afford any downtime and there's only one supplier in the UK for spares (and they're on back order).

So, looking around I'm back to considering a Weller (maybe WS81) or Metcal, in particular the PS-900. Weller seems to have drifted in quality, though.

Is anyone using that particular Metcal? It has the dreaded 'Made in China' on the sticker. It has to be reliable and have good spares support for tips etc. I like the theory, though having to change tips to change temperature looks like a bind. I flip between SMD, lead/lead-free and thru-hole components all the time. How do you get along with this?

It looks a bit of a chunky iron - slightly clumsy, though I haven't used one.

[Usable Thought]

Out of curiosity I Googled - a detailed review here plus other comments too:

Review: OKI International PS-900 Soldering Station - Page 1

Note - OKI and Metcal appear to be same company?

[Mick Bailey]

Thanks, I saw that too. It doesn't answer all my questions, though. Looks a pretty good piece of kit and lower cost than the Weller. I like the fast warmup and the magnetic shutdown.

I wonder how difficult it would be to repair if it went wrong?

[olddawg]

I haven't bought a station in years.... But the Hakkos used to be pretty reliable for a shop bench with plenty of support. They are Korean (or were). Their extractor was pretty good too.

[Mick Bailey]

Hakkos do have a solid reputation and I would love to get my hands on a good 240v 936, even though it's been out of production for years. I've never seen them around in the UK, though. There's now a Hakko distributor, but a real problem with buying any of their new stuff on the open market is that the Chinese knock-offs have got so good. At least the appearance is - the insides are crud and they quality just isn't there. Plenty of traders are selling the fakes as genuine, and it's hard to spot the difference.

I did a little more research on the Metcal and I'm thinking the HF (13.56 Mhz) type with the coax connection to the handpiece would be a better bet. I like the idea - no traditional heating element, no thermostat, and many other benefits.

From what I can gather the difference between the Metcal system and a regular solder station is greater than the difference between a regular solder station and an unregulated mains iron. Users say onece you;ve used a Metcal there's no comparison.

Would still like a 936, though. Just as a backup.

[km6xz]

I had Pace rework stations and Weller irons for 30 years and liked them but one tech brought in his Metcal model have have no idea of. It was a tall box and thin iron with a small bench footprint. I was curious about it so played with it on various types of connections and sizes if connections and I was really impressed. It melted large joints faster even though he had a low temperature tip on it. When I moved here I needed a new iron because it is 230volts and all my Weller stations in storage were 120v. I looked for a Metcal but they were not available as quickly as I needed one so got a cheap copy of the Hakko 936 that was fine for a few years but wanted a rework station and got a AOYUE 2703A with hot air and desoldering gun and Iron. I am happy with that. If I can get one, I would like the Metcal based on that positive impression it left with me. I don't know the model, it had two connectors on the front but could only use one at a time. I would guess that you would be happy with the Metcal.
It uses a novel use of the Curie point. Weller used that also as a temperature regular but in a whole different way. The Weller used the Curie point to break contact with a switch that de-energized the heating coil.. The Metcal using the Curie Point to directly control current flow in the tip.

[Alex R]

I have a Pace HW50 iron and ST115 solder sucker, both bought secondhand for about 100 quid or so, 240v and spares not too dear on ebay. The ST115 goes through tips every few weeks but other than that they've been great for me. The little iron on the HW50 heats up in about 5 seconds and is very slender and very powerful. I wouldn't change either. Never tried a Metcal though!

[nickb]

I haven't used that particular Metcal but I have used quite a few others. I found the temperature control, the heat up speed and heat output excellent. I liked the feel in my hand too. The bits were very durable and sturdy. I also have used Weller products aimed at the same small-joint use and hated them - flimsy, low power, auto switch was ineffective and clumsy.

I do have a Weller de-soldering iron (very expensive) that I got as it was all I could get with enough heat output to remove electrolytics from boards with 2oz copper planes that suck the heat away in no time. I love it.

[Mick Bailey]

The older dual-output Metcal was the MX-500. You could plug in a desolder gun and iron and flip between the two with just a few seconds warmup time. They're probably the best long-term bet because the PCB is straightforward and is just a through-hole SMPS with the HF output running the iron. So it's repairable and carries stock components. Because there's nothing to the iron (they call it a handpiece) and the RF coil is in the tip, it should all have a pretty long life.

The nice thing is that if the iron is parked next to a magnet (some stands have this feature) it reduces the heat to the copper/ferrite slug in the tip by altering the Curie point.

Some people have built DIY power supples and run Metcal handpieces + tips. I guess that's a nice project if you have the time.

I'm at the stage now where I have to get one just to see for myself. I'll get a used unit to test the water and report back.

[Nepenthes]

It's unfortunate Metcal/OKI is all made in PROC (China) now. The packaging speaks for itself. I'll spend my money elsewhere that still manufactures their products in Europe, US, or Japan.

[Mick Bailey]

In buying a German made unit, is it really German? Is it really a Weller?

China Soldering Station Lead-Free Digital Weller WSD81 Photos & Pictures - Made-in-china.com

[Nepenthes]

I know there are knock-off Wellers, Hakkos, etc. out there but if you buy from a trustworthy vendor that's been in the business for a long time, I wouldn't worry about buying a fake. I'm sure those with a keen eye or have one side-by-side can tell a fake from the real as the fake Hakko stuff is pretty easy to spot.

Also, the old adage applies 99% of the time. If the price is too good to be true, run or drive =)

[nickb]

In buying a German made unit, is it really German? Is it really a Weller?

China Soldering Station Lead-Free Digital Weller WSD81 Photos & Pictures - Made-in-china.com

My Weller very clearly says "Made in Germany" on the base...

... I bet the Chinese ones say that too

[Nepenthes]

For example, here is a video comparison between a real and fake Hakko FG-100 tip tester:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-YpH-OLrh0

And another of a Hakko FX-951 soldering station. The fake should be quite evident, otherwise go see your optometrist STAT.

[Mick Bailey]

Some are closer than others. Spot the fake. The trouble is sometimes supply chains can become infiltrated with fake goods.