Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

replacing amp swithch

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • replacing amp swithch

    Just tried to replace an on/off switch on amp. was all good but tested before soldering and went on fine, until I moved it and wires must have touched. have I broken the whole thing or just fussed it?

  • #2
    Hard to say, you have not reported anything about what the amp does and does not do. What is wrong with it?
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Enzo View Post
      Hard to say, you have not reported anything about what the amp does and does not do. What is wrong with it?
      Thank you for your reply. The on off swithchh was broken so just wanted to replace it. When I connected the new swithch the amp came on but then I moved it and got sparks, the amp went off and did not come back on. I had not soldered the wires so I think they must have touched. I took off the new switch and just connected the correct wires and still no response.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by popfizz View Post
        Thank you for your reply. The on off swithchh was broken so just wanted to replace it. When I connected the new swithch the amp came on but then I moved it and got sparks, the amp went off and did not come back on. I had not soldered the wires so I think they must have touched. I took off the new switch and just connected the correct wires and still no response.
        When the sparks flew, the fuse was probably blown. Look for a fuse either inside or outside the chassis. It might help us to know what amp you are talking about.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
          When the sparks flew, the fuse was probably blown. Look for a fuse either inside or outside the chassis. It might help us to know what amp you are talking about.
          Yes, and maybe even a pic or two of the damage. Also, if you have a newer 3-prong grounding cord, you can get by with just switching the black(hot) wire. This way you don't have 120 volts sitting next to each other on the switch if you had the type that switches both hot and neutral and there is less chance for a short. The power switch doesn't have to switch the neutral(white) in guitar amps. You can just hook the incoming white directly to one of the PT leads and use a single pole switch to switch the black. In fact, it's against the National Electrical Code to switch the neutral in house wiring. A wall switch only switches the hot. Also, see this thread about fusing. This guy is right on: Amp Builders, do not fuse the neutral ! | The Gear Page
          Turn it up so that everything is louder than everything else.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by 52 Bill View Post
            When the sparks flew, the fuse was probably blown. Look for a fuse either inside or outside the chassis. It might help us to know what amp you are talking about.
            Thanks I have removed fuse and will get a replacement and see how that goes, may take a few days as leaving Wednesday touring Egypt till 8th April. The amp is a Peavey Base micro.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hard to believe that Peavey would pull a bonehead stunt like that (switching both mains legs).

              When in fact, the MicroBass schematic shows that they only switch the black lead.
              Yay!

              microbass.pdf

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
                Hard to believe that Peavey would pull a bonehead stunt like that (switching both mains legs).

                When in fact, the MicroBass schematic shows that they only switch the black lead.
                Yay!

                [ATTACH]38382[/ATTACH]
                Yes, definitely good to know what amp we are talking about now and a schematic as well. Thanks, Jazz. And yes, good to see only the hot switched. Not sure why some amps did this(switch both) except maybe to insure the hot was switched if the user somehow defeated the polarity orientation. Switching both insured the hot did indeed get switched. OP must have had a hot to chassis short, no doubt?
                Last edited by DRH1958; 03-27-2016, 10:08 PM.
                Turn it up so that everything is louder than everything else.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Quote:"OP must have had a hot to chassis short, no doubt?"

                  That is what I was thinking.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X