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A mystery of guitar amp hum to be solved...and I need clues

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  • A mystery of guitar amp hum to be solved...and I need clues

    I've got a puzzle with a guitar amp that I'm determined to figure out. I'm pretty good at troubleshooting technology, but because I have so little experience with electronics, schematics, and amplification...I'm really having a problem tracking down the cause of this issue. I've been working on it for several months and it's become my personal Moby Dick...but I'm caving and asking for help from more experienced and intelligent people.

    Device: Crate FXT-120 guitar amp (schematics attached)

    Problem: When I power on the amp, there is a steady and loud hum coming from the speakers. This hum is not affected by turning any of the knobs or buttons, and is present whether there is anything plugged into the input. The hum is obviously not there when the speakers are disconnected. When I plug in a guitar, you can hear the tones coming from the guitar through the hum, but they are distorted.

    Troubleshooting:The first thought I had was that there's a DC offset on the speakers. Measuring the output (TP13) with my DMM (red probe on the + speaker terminal, black probe on either a ground or the - speaker terminal), I get 0.04v DC. That doesn't seem like enough DC to cause the loud hum, but I'm not sure what else would cause it.

    I've replaced a handful of capacitors (including the main filter caps), but the hum has not changed. However, it is worth noting that my soldering skills are abysmal at best and it is entirely possible my joints aren't any good (I'm having someone else double check me in a few days). The caps I've changed are highlighted in yellow on the 2nd page of the schematic.

    The results of the DC test points are listed on page 2 as well (in orange). There are several values that are off, but I'm not experienced enough to know what kind of variance would be acceptable.

    Any interesting thing that I stumbled across, is that if I short the collector and emitter leads on Q5 (red circle 1 on the 2nd page) while the amp it turned on, I get a spark from the transistor and the hum goes away. After several minutes of the amp being on after that point, the hum comes back. I have tried to trace what might be causing the spark (e.g. a capacitor discharging?) and why the hum goes away, but again my lack of experience is holding me back.

    I have found that if I remove Q5 (red 1) from the circuit completely, the hum goes away (although there is a new buzzing present in the sound from my guitar that is affected by volume and tone controls). But when I also remove the sister transistor, Q23 (red 2), the hum stays gone. But this time, the sound coming from the guitar is heavily distorted just like it was when the hum was present. Also, removing both transistors does nothing to change the 0.04v DC on the speaker (TP13).

    Thanks to this thread (http://music-electronics-forum.com/t34148/), I noticed that the 0.04v DC is also on the base of Q14 (red 3) and also on the drain of Q16 (red 4, page 1). Then on either side of C68 is 0.04v (red 5) and 0.01v (red 6). The thread talked about a leaky Q16, which I am going to replace next...but something tells me that's not my problem.


    I've heard many a person tell me not to bother with fixing the amp, but like I said it's become a personal quest for me and I'm confident I can fix it...I just need some clues. I've got to believe that the behaviors that I'm seeing can help trace this to the root cause...I just haven't been able to see it.

    Any guidance or thoughts on where I should be looking would be oh so appreciated!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Hi , not an insurmountable challenge for the techs here ! and welcome to the forum TexasRed1974.
    Firstly put aside that .04v DC at output. That's a typical reading from a guitar amp.
    Check for a flat battery first.. ie check the power supplies for the positive and negative 40 volts DC .. and see what the reading is for AC ,
    ie ripple on top of the DC .. should be very low particularly with your new filter caps!
    Now the same for the 15volt plus and minus supplies for the pre-amp.
    Those 5 watt resistors (R96,R95) can get a bit hot as can the zener diodes so also check for cracked or poor solder joins there.
    One of the first things that usually gets asked on this forum is "what happens when you plug into the insert jack return?" which in your case is a single tip (return) and sleeve (send) jack socket.
    This tells us (sometimes) if the fault is in the preamp or the power amp.
    The level will be very low but as the jack disconnects the pre-amp , we can tell if the hum has gone the fault may be in the pre-amp.
    If its still humming you won't hear the low signal from a guitar but this may direct us to a possible power amp fault.
    I shall bow out now as I don't see enough crates to service down this end of the world ! Hope that's some help.
    Last edited by oc disorder; 05-30-2016, 08:11 AM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Check the idle current by measuring the voltages across R23, R33, R83, R85. Do you have an oscilloscope to check for ripple and oscillation? It could be oscillating if the Zobel network is open circuit. Check C59, R97.

      Comment


      • #4
        It worries me when you say your soldering skills are abysmal. I would suggest getting some junk boards and practice soldering with them using flux, braid, and solvent. What you are describing sounds like power supply but you don't have an output offset. Distortion is a good clue. If the amp has main/pre breaking jacks divide and conquer. Or use the effects in out jacks. Determin if the output amp is clean or not.

        Comment


        • #5
          Shorting transistors, especially the main output transistors is a very bad idea. When you short Q5 the current will travel through the speaker and likely burn it out. If the speaker is still OK I'm surprised. Also, when you do that the bottom transistor will turn on and try to restore the voltage at the output back to 0v, likely destroying that transistor too.

          Removing components can also screw things up badly - you might upset the delicate balance that keeps the output DC small and blow up speaker and transistors. Don't short /open/ remove anything unless you know what you are doing.

          Put everything back, do not connect the speaker and check the DC at the output. Only if it less than ~100mv is it safe to hook the speaker back up. Generally speaking, I don't connect the speaker if I'm probing the power amp as it reduces the chance of anything catastrophic happening should a probe slip.
          Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

          Comment


          • #6
            I had to read that line twice to believe it.

            "Any interesting thing that I stumbled across, is that if I short the collector and emitter leads on Q5 (red circle 1 on the 2nd page) while the amp it turned on, I get a spark from the transistor and the hum goes away."

            So the OP effectively shorted the B+ 35Vdc to his speaker!

            Very interesting indeed.

            Arty Johnson at his finest.
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=5Qf6Sv3A9zs

            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah, don't forget, sparks turn into fires. Don't do that sparking thing anymore!
              Originally posted by Enzo
              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


              Comment


              • #8
                Thank you for the replies.

                Attempting to split the pre from the power using the insert jack, it seems like the issue is with the power amp since the hum is unchanged regardless what I have in the insert jack (either fully or partially).

                Looking at the 5w resistors (R96, R95) and the zener diodes, they appear to be good joins...but I'm having another set of eyes/hands take a look at them.

                I'll check the voltages across R23, R33, R83, and R85 tonight (hopefully), as well as C59 and R97. Although I only have a DMM and not an oscilloscope. I'm trying to find one I can borrow for the task. I'll report back what I find, assuming people are still willing to help.

                And to clarify the transistor shorting: I know enough to not be shorting things like that on purpose. It happened twice...both times an unfortunate slip of the probe...and neither time had the speakers actually been hooked up (I do all the work inside without them hooked in). I'm not happy the short happened either time (and I was afraid it was End Game when it did happen), but it seemed worth noting the effect doing so had on the symptom (why waste an accident if I can glean information from it). And while I'm still curious to know the electrical theory as to what happened and why the symptom went away, it seems from your responses that it's not very useful in tracking down the fault.

                I have since reinstalled the two output transistors I removed, and the DC offset is still 40 mv on the output.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Checking the power supplies: TP14 and TP15 both show ~38.5v DC and ~84v AC, and on the other side of the 5w resistors (R95, R96) is ~16v DC and ~36.5v AC. The thing is, the AC reading is from my DMM, but I'm not sure what those values represent...I assume it's not Vpp...so I don't know how to really interpret the AC readings.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Dave H View Post
                    Check the idle current by measuring the voltages across R23, R33, R83, R85. Do you have an oscilloscope to check for ripple and oscillation? It could be oscillating if the Zobel network is open circuit. Check C59, R97.
                    Measuring across R23, R33, R83, and R85 all read about 3mv DC. C59 was replaced, and R97 tested good out of circuit.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TexasRed1974 View Post
                      Checking the power supplies: TP14 and TP15 both show ~38.5v DC and ~84v AC, and on the other side of the 5w resistors (R95, R96) is ~16v DC and ~36.5v AC. The thing is, the AC reading is from my DMM, but I'm not sure what those values represent...I assume it's not Vpp...so I don't know how to really interpret the AC readings.
                      Well...the AC readings you report just don't make any sense. They are way higher than we would expect. Not just higher than normal but higher than should be possible even if the filter capacitors were totally shot. Please check again. Tell us exactly how you are making the measurements. (Meter setting and where you are connecting each meter probe) Pay extra attention to the scale indicator on the meter.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TexasRed1974 View Post
                        Checking the power supplies: TP14 and TP15 both show ~38.5v DC and ~84v AC, and on the other side of the 5w resistors (R95, R96) is ~16v DC and ~36.5v AC. The thing is, the AC reading is from my DMM, but I'm not sure what those values represent...I assume it's not Vpp...so I don't know how to really interpret the AC readings.
                        FWIW I have gotten strange readings on cheaper DMMs when both AC and DC high voltages are present. But YMMV.

                        Steve Ahola
                        The Blue Guitar
                        www.blueguitar.org
                        Some recordings:
                        https://soundcloud.com/sssteeve/sets...e-blue-guitar/
                        .

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Steve A. View Post
                          FWIW I have gotten strange readings on cheaper DMMs when both AC and DC high voltages are present. But YMMV...
                          Right. Please tell us the model of your meter too. Usually the problem Steve described happens when you try to measure an AC voltage that is riding on a much higher DC voltage AND you are using a low end meter. Even then, one doesn't usually get readings a wacky as those you reported.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Tom Phillips View Post
                            Well...the AC readings you report just don't make any sense. They are way higher than we would expect. Not just higher than normal but higher than should be possible even if the filter capacitors were totally shot. Please check again. Tell us exactly how you are making the measurements. (Meter setting and where you are connecting each meter probe) Pay extra attention to the scale indicator on the meter.
                            That's a fair question. I have the meter set on 200 in the V~ section and I am measuring at the leads of R95 and R96.

                            R96: black probe on a screw on the chassis (which I've been assuming is ground) and the red probe on the same resistor lead that gives me a 38v DC reading. Meter reads 84.2 AC. On the other lead (which gives me 16.4v DC) reads 36.3 AC.

                            It's the same when measuring using R95, except I have to switch the black and red probes to get a reading.

                            Is that a valid way to measure?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Your measurement methods seem correct. Steve's explanation about the meter's capabilities may be the reason that you are getting the high AC readings but they still seem way high to me even for a meter that cannot accurately measure AC in the presence of DC. Try putting a capacitor, say 0.1uF /100VDC rating or higher in series with your red probe when you measure the AC. What does that do to the reading?

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