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Help identifying a crossover component

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  • Help identifying a crossover component

    Hello,

    I'm trying to fix a crossover in my 90's OAP cabinets. I am wondering what the black box is soldered to the white wire going to the hi freq. driver.

    Is this a fuse?

    ThanksClick image for larger version

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  • #2
    Click image for larger version

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    Here is the schematic.

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    • #3
      From the label 2.0A I'd suspect a fuse or some current-limiting device, but see nothing like that on the schem. Undocumented change? Does the component present as an open circuit?

      edit: can you ID the other components and verify that it is NOT something already called out on the schem?
      If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
      If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
      We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
      MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey

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      • #4
        That was my thought. They were redone by OAP years ago. Neither side presents open. The 3.0 uf capacitor next to it was replaced by me after a no sound condition. I replaced the other 3.0uf as well on the other crossover for good measure. Now the repaired crossover doesn't pass as much of the lower tweeter range as the good side. I've swapped them around and it's definitely the crossover and not the speaker. Both crossovers are identically wired. I guess I could try disconnecting it and keeping the volume down and seeing if that changes the sound.

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        • #5
          All other components are on the schematic. Only inductors, caps, and a resistor.

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          • #6
            That box may be a self-resetting breaker. Does it measure as a short?
            Do you have a way of checking inductance of the coils? If not, maybe try swapping the MF ones around with the good side.
            Originally posted by Enzo
            I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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            • #7
              Originally posted by g1 View Post
              That box may be a self-resetting breaker. Does it measure as a short?
              Do you have a way of checking inductance of the coils? If not, maybe try swapping the MF ones around with the good side.
              That would be my guess. The internal contacts have become resistive. Just a few ohms will cut your output to the tweeter. I would jumper it for test. If you get normal operation with it jumpered, I would replace it with a 2 amp fuse mounted on the panel if you can't find a replacement.

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              • #8
                2 amp circuit breaker. You have the schematic AND the board, I can see it connects to a white wire at one end, so it ought to be simple to figure out where in the circuit it is inserted.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #9
                  Thanks. I swapped the fuses between crossovers and no sound change. The one crossover just lets the highest of highs through. The one I'm assuming to be good may be letting too much through, but in my listening experience it sounds like a tweeter should when running sound through the high input only.

                  I replaced all of the capacitors and the resistor as well and it still sounds the same.

                  I'm not sure what is the difference between the two unless there is some problem with an inductor. I resoldered anything that looked iffy. I live in Florida so there is always the crazy moisture problem that could just be causing a bad connection.

                  Thanks everyone for your help as always. I've got a gig in a few hours so I'm going to reassemble the cabinets and let 'em rip.

                  I believe I will completely disassemble these and reassemble with good clean joints when I get these next few gigs out of the way.

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                  • #10
                    Would it be possible to post more pictures including the other side with the routing from the white lead (signal out to HF driver) to the circuit breaker? In trying to converge the schematic, the picture and your description, it seems to me like that would put the circuit breaker in parallel with the HF driver(?) The connections must be different than I'm "seeing", or perhaps more variations from the schematic. Thank you.
                    Well, you know what they say: "One man's mojo is another man's mojo".

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