Sound Tech R-15 - And Crossovers?

[Guitarman67]

I have two big Soudtech R-15 PA cabinets. Over the years the plastic part the plugs and crossovers mount to have busted all to crap. One even had a jack bust of that was also once attached to the crossover. The crossovers still work but I would like to replace them. I don't know beans about crossovers. Would anyone know what crossovers I would need for these cabinets?

8 ohms
Horns: 833 0519 327
Speakers 15 but unknown who made them.
The crossovers inside the cabinets on the back of these plastic guards says BFE 85CX2 they have BI Amp section HI and LO and a pot for the high frequency level.
I could do without the BI Amp part I'm sure the high frequency pot might be of some use.

[nickb]

Would it be easier to fix the plastic parts? Can you post a picture?

[Guitarman67]

[Guitarman67]

[nickb]

Now I understand your problem. It looks like you might be able use a couple of rectangular aluminum plates, drill, paint and mount the connectors and pot on to it. The crossovers themselves seem to be fine.

[The Dude]

That's the way I'd go. Get a couple of blank recessed dishes made of steel or aluminum, drill your own, and never worry about it again. Of course you'll have to measure the hole size in the cabinet, but something like this would work. They come in all sorts of sizes.

4in x 4-3/8in blank steel jack dish -drill your own!! | eBay

Edit: If you go that route, I recommend installing isolation washers on the HI-LO input jacks. The possibility exists that someone plugs a reverse wired speaker cable in those. Without isolation washers, you could short an amp in this instance.

[Enzo]

That is why the jack cups are plastic.

COmmercial products:
https://www.parts-express.com/5-x-7-...blank--260-110

[Leo_Gnardo]

That is why the jack cups are plastic.

COmmercial products:
https://www.parts-express.com/5-x-7-...blank--260-110

Parts Express also has some good choices for ready made crossovers, ALSO kits so you can make up your own. And information so you can give yourself a crash course in crossover design.

FWIW I generally increase the crossover point, by 20 - 50% from stock, to the horn driver when replacing or rebuilding. Two reasons, 1: decreases overall response in the 800-1500 Hz region, that can help reduce squeeks & squawks from microphone feedback and B) Less power going to the horn diaphragm in the low end of its response zone means longer lifetime, less likely to break at the moment you need it.

Last bit of advice, use film capacitors. Parts Express has their in-house Dayton brand, and they're perfectly good. Avoid non-polarized electrolytics. They have a short life and most of the ones I've ever seen were damaged. The only advantage, they're cheap. You get what you pay for.

[The Dude]

I'm still for the idea of using a metal/aluminum replacement. A new plastic thing will just break again. It's easy enough to get some isolation washers for the jacks.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...l%252b0A%3D%3D

[Enzo]

Different strokes...

My thoughts are that the plastic cups, like on a million Peavey cabs hold up pretty well, unless you bash the piss out of them. His edges are broken off, that is from things banging on them.

Insulating washers work... until you lose them. Nut works loose, falls off, so does your washer. Hole is now oversize. If we want a metal panel, replace the metal bushing jacks with plastic bushing jacks on the biamp inputs.

[The Dude]

Yep, different strokes.

Another thought: If you were so inclined and ambitious enough, you could route out a recessed area around the hole in the cabinet and recess a plastic dish. It would help keep it from getting banged into by other gear.

[Enzo]

Pull a woofer, and mount the cup from the inside,

[The Dude]

Pull a woofer, and mount the cup from the inside,

There it is. That's a great idea, Enzo. In fact, if you do it that way, you could just use a flat piece of wood- masonite or something of the sort. No recessed dish necessary and easier drilling.